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2011 CRF250R stopped running after a ride and new top end

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Hi all, need some advice!

 

So, after a big trail ride I went back to the bike to start it and it wouldn't start, even after trying to bump start it down a hill, tried kicking it and all compression had gone. I had the bike super hot on the ride, and I did ride through water on the way back. But, no issues until I tried to start it again.

 

So I gave it a good clean, and took it to a local store, expecting them to figure it out. Short story is they said it needed all this stuff to fix it:

 

base and head gasket

piston and rings

Gave it a full valve job. The whole deal, springs, seats etc.

 

Its basically a fresh top end now.

 

Now they say they cant get it going. It has compression, they say it has good spark, valves and timing done.

 

Any ideas? Pretty pissed off at how much I've thrown at it and it still doesn't work. They've had it for 3 weeks, and I've had enough. I am going to get it back Tuesday and I am trying to get ahead of the curve and get some ideas on what it could be, or what to check.

 

Any ideas people, can you help a fellow rider here that hates to be off the bike this long!

 

 

Edited by randomtask

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I assume they checked for spark and valve clearances. If it got real hot you have cracked the head casting. They took the bike to get it going and if their work didn't get the bike going you likely don't have to pay them. Or at least they have to get it going for you on their dime and time.

Edited by Eddie8v
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I assume they checked for spark and valve clearances. If it got real hot you have cracked the head casting. They took the bike to get it going and if their work didn't get the bike going you likely don't have to pay them. Or at least they have to get it going for you on their dime and time.

I told them I am picking it up, so given that I am not giving them anymore time to fix it, its going to be hard to argue the cost. You know how it is, they tell you it will be fixed this weekend, and its not, then the next weekend they same the same thing and so on ........ive just got no faith they can actually fix it, and want to cut my losses.

 

Maybe I should give them another week I don't know....

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I assume they checked for spark and valve clearances. If it got real hot you have cracked the head casting. They took the bike to get it going and if their work didn't get the bike going you likely don't have to pay them. Or at least they have to get it going for you on their dime and time.

if the engine is turning over, and it has spark, if they have done the timing and valves correctly, then its gotta be a fuel issue right? The tech mentioned it ran for maybe a second and it cut out.

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I have an 07 and it died on me the exact same way yours did.

I just did the head, piston and rings and I can't get it started either. Literally does the exact same thing yours is doing...it fires maybe a stroke or two every 10 or so kicks then dies.

I've literally tried everything under the sun except opening my carb (cleaned it out maybe 2 months ago)...but I think that's what's next on the agenda...

I know the 2011s are fuel injected so I'm curious to see what the problem is with your bike. If you find out what the issue is let me know!

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I have an 07 and it died on me the exact same way yours did.

I just did the head, piston and rings and I can't get it started either. Literally does the exact same thing yours is doing...it fires maybe a stroke or two every 10 or so kicks then dies.

I've literally tried everything under the sun except opening my carb (cleaned it out maybe 2 months ago)...but I think that's what's next on the agenda...

I know the 2011s are fuel injected so I'm curious to see what the problem is with your bike. If you find out what the issue is let me know!

I sure will, if it ever gets fixed.....
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I sure will, if it ever gets fixed.....

UPDATE! So we tried a number of other things, including fuel pump/tank, idle screw, plug, air temp sensor. It would run, but took a good few kicks to get it started! And what we were looking for was 2-3 kicks every time.

The last option was the coolant temperature sensor, and that seemed to do the trick. Our reckoning was due to how hot the bike got, the coolant sensor was screwed up. Seems like that would have been one of the first things to try, but it's always the same........(obvious answer is usually the solution)

I also changed out the fuel pump filter as an added extra and cleaned and greased all electric connectors! I also spent some time playing with the idle screw setting to get the best results which I found was crucial to the starting procedure!

Now I have developed a technique for kicking over the bike.! Unlike 450s and older carb 250s, it just doesn't seem to need such a big kick, in fact, the harder you kick it the harder it is to start. I almost feel like I am starting a 125 2stroke!

It goes like this:

1. I do 3 or 4 gentle kicks/or pushes through the Kickstarter to prime the FI system. Not sure if this is actually a 'thing' but it works for me.

2. Then I pull out the idle screw and a couple of real soft and 'short' kicks later she's running, Push the screw back in, let her warm up and braaaap! As I said, it's crucial to get the idle setting right.

Another thing I plan on doing is getting the ECU remapped and fettled. This should help with it starting and get the most out of my aftermarket yoshi pipe.

Hope this helps!

Edited by randomtask

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I have an 07 and it died on me the exact same way yours did.

I just did the head, piston and rings and I can't get it started either. Literally does the exact same thing yours is doing...it fires maybe a stroke or two every 10 or so kicks then dies.

I've literally tried everything under the sun except opening my carb (cleaned it out maybe 2 months ago)...but I think that's what's next on the agenda...

I know the 2011s are fuel injected so I'm curious to see what the problem is with your bike. If you find out what the issue is let me know!

 

 

UPDATE! So we tried a number of other things, including fuel pump/tank, idle screw, plug, air temp sensor. It would run, but took a good few kicks to get it started! And what we were looking for was 2-3 kicks every time.

The last option was the coolant temperature sensor, and that seemed to do the trick. Our reckoning was due to how hot the bike got, the coolant sensor was screwed up. Seems like that would have been one of the first things to try, but it's always the same........(obvious answer is usually the solution)

I also changed out the fuel pump filter as an added extra and cleaned and greased all electric connectors! I also spent some time playing with the idle screw setting to get the best results which I found was crucial to the starting procedure!

Now I have developed a technique for kicking over the bike.! Unlike 450s and older carb 250s, it just doesn't seem to need such a big kick, in fact, the harder you kick it the harder it is to start. I almost feel like I am starting a 125 2stroke!

It goes like this:

1. I do 3 or 4 gentle kicks/or pushes through the Kickstarter to prime the FI system. Not sure if this is actually a 'thing' but it works for me.

2. Then I pull out the idle screw and a couple of real soft and 'short' kicks later she's running, Push the screw back in, let her warm up and braaaap! As I said, it's crucial to get the idle setting right.

Another thing I plan on doing is getting the ECU remapped and fettled. This should help with it starting and get the most out of my aftermarket yoshi pipe.

Hope this helps!

just wanted Jmontans to see this

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