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2015 WR450F


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Quick question here...so even just swapping the ecu without buying the programmer makes a big difference?  I'm thinking of doing the same thing and wasn't sure if I needed the programmer right off the bat or if I would notice a good change with the swap alone and be able to tune later as/if needed.

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tmasW, all I've done is swap the ECU and removed the so called pea shooter and it's really made a big difference. Obviously changing the throttle stop screw and tuner will get you alot more but for less than $100 you can't beat it.

You're not getting full throttle if you don't change out the throttle stop.
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10-4 thanks guys.  I have a FMF powercore4 exhaust.  I am going to order up the ECU now, and get the programmer in the spring.  I'll research the throttle stop screw and do it this weekend as well.  I'm excited to see how she wakes up after this.

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Baby steps remember?  May sound lame but I have a 3 year old little girl and I don't want to launch myself into a brick wall.  If you've been following me, she is

the only reason I sold my Fat Boy in the first place lol.

with proper mapping, you will not kill yourself on it.  more reason to get the programmer.  its more controllable

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10-4 thanks guys.  I have a FMF powercore4 exhaust.  I am going to order up the ECU now, and get the programmer in the spring.  I'll research the throttle stop screw and do it this weekend as well.  I'm excited to see how she wakes up after this.

Throttle stop comes with the competition ECU, its a pain to get to and you'll need a Torx Key with with the whole in it to remove the old one. Well worth it though!

Edited by rcfallen
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So...

  I bought my bike "used" with only 2 trail rides on it.  The previous owner said he had the dealer put the FMF pipe on, but that was all he mentioned.  I was about to order the ECU from Rocky Mtn, but decided to look at the one that was in it first...it has the same stamp "1DX7" on it as the comp ECU, and when I looked up a replacement "stock" part is has a "1DX2".  I'm guessing that means it already has the Comp ECU, (which might be kind of a relief, as i was a little worried about "doubling" my HP, as it's already pretty Balls-y).  Can anyone verify that the stock and Comp tuner have different stamps on it?

  I figure I will order the tuner now, because it seems a little lean still.  Pipe gets red after a "stroll" around the neighborhood, or even sometimes the 5 min ride up to the university at "city" speeds.  Also there's a little moderate popping and occasional straight up back-fire on decel. 

  Anyone have advice for me on the throttle stop screw?  I would think with the comp ECU and FMF pipe they would have done the shortened stop too, is there a way to ID what I have in the bike to make sure?  Thanks guys, and sorry if I'm hi-jacking your thread.

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So...

  I bought my bike "used" with only 2 trail rides on it.  The previous owner said he had the dealer put the FMF pipe on, but that was all he mentioned.  I was about to order the ECU from Rocky Mtn, but decided to look at the one that was in it first...it has the same stamp "1DX7" on it as the comp ECU, and when I looked up a replacement "stock" part is has a "1DX2".  I'm guessing that means it already has the Comp ECU, (which might be kind of a relief, as i was a little worried about "doubling" my HP, as it's already pretty Balls-y).  Can anyone verify that the stock and Comp tuner have different stamps on it?

  I figure I will order the tuner now, because it seems a little lean still.  Pipe gets red after a "stroll" around the neighborhood, or even sometimes the 5 min ride up to the university at "city" speeds.  Also there's a little moderate popping and occasional straight up back-fire on decel. 

  Anyone have advice for me on the throttle stop screw?  I would think with the comp ECU and FMF pipe they would have done the shortened stop too, is there a way to ID what I have in the bike to make sure?  Thanks guys, and sorry if I'm hi-jacking your thread.

 

Yeah you definitely have the competition ECU in it already. Stock is the 1DX2. You would notice if the throttle stop screw was in, it only turns about a little over a 1/4 of the way. 

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Is it worth buying a full system vs just a slip on? I have a 15' as well and just picked up the tuner, already installed the ECU kit, snorkel removed. Last thing I need to order for it is some sorta exhaust. I thought I saw pics where aftermarket head pipes on the WR weren't much different in diameter then stock. I could be wrong though.

And I take it the GYTR fmf is just a fancy labeled powercore 4 for Yamaha to resell right?

Edited by Kx250FRiDeR651
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I'm no expert but some of the other comments have been just to change the slip on.  I just removed the baffle myself.  So far I have removed the baffle from

exhaust and swapped the ECU and it's been a nice difference.  Tomorrow I'm having one of the mechanics at work change the throttle screw and from there I'm

gonna play with the tuner.  How are you liking your WR so far?

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Is it worth buying a full system vs just a slip on? I have a 15' as well and just picked up the tuner, already installed the ECU kit, snorkel removed. Last thing I need to order for it is some sorta exhaust. I thought I saw pics where aftermarket head pipes on the WR weren't much different in diameter then stock. I could be wrong though.

And I take it the GYTR fmf is just a fancy labeled powercore 4 for Yamaha to resell right?

From what I understand there isn't much advantage of going with an aftermarket head.  The local MX mechanic/tuner I talked to here said to run my factory head until I crash and damage it, then buy an aftermarket then.  Just what I've been told.

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Is it worth buying a full system vs just a slip on? I have a 15' as well and just picked up the tuner, already installed the ECU kit, snorkel removed. Last thing I need to order for it is some sorta exhaust. I thought I saw pics where aftermarket head pipes on the WR weren't much different in diameter then stock. I could be wrong though.

And I take it the GYTR fmf is just a fancy labeled powercore 4 for Yamaha to resell right?

 

Slip on is fine for you. Pipes are not the best way to increase power, just the easiest.

 

Headers come in different diameters and lengths for different power band tuning. They don't make 'more' power, unless the motor is built specifically for it.

 

The GYTR FMF pipe is a Powercore 4 FMF, SPECIFICALLY tuned for that model bike.

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How are you liking your WR so far?

I dunno yet haha. It still only has 0.2 mile on the ODO with a battery maintainer hooked up. I was lucky and got mine Ca plated. There's a mountain down here in SoCal/Orange County (Santiago peak) that's real fun and lots of riding for plated bikes, but it's been closed off all year from fires/fire risk and apparently the fire trucks damaged the roads they claimed. So while I wait for that to re-open up, I'm doing a supermoto conversion. Just slowly buying parts. I rode it around the block when I got it and it felt way better in every way then my DRZ. Edited by Kx250FRiDeR651
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I dunno yet haha. It still only has 0.2 mile on the ODO with a battery maintainer hooked up. I was lucky and got mine Ca plated. There's a mountain down here in SoCal/Orange County (Santiago peak) that's real fun and lots of riding for plated bikes, but it's been closed off all year from fires/fire risk and apparently the fire trucks damaged the roads they claimed. So while I wait for that to re-open up, I'm doing a supermoto conversion. Just slowly buying parts. I rode it around the block when I got it and it felt way better in every way then my DRZ.

Yea, I doubt they'll ever open Santiago Peak or Main Divide, especially with all the rain were supposed to get?
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