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Hey guys have a friend,that is doing Xr4 estart.With all Ex ATV400.Crank and every other part.Those who have done it.What is the deal on Black box.Xr400 box some say,wont run right,or cold start problem.Other say ATV box on Xr4 makes it slow.Anybody clear that up.Thanks BTR

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If using all trx wiring parts, including stator, pick up coil aka pulse generator, use trx CDI unit.

If using XR4 stator & pick up coil, you must use XR650 CDI.

It's only when you mix XR4 ignition & charging parts with TRX ignition & charging parts that you have the problem

Australian ones are this way

(There is a way to get more out of the TRX system if he goes that way)

Edited by Still-learning
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If using all trx wiring parts, including stator, pick up coil aka pulse generator, use trx CDI unit.

If using XR4 stator & pick up coil, you must use XR650 CDI.

It's only when you mix XR4 ignition & charging parts with TRX ignition & charging parts that you have the problem

Australian ones are this way

(There is a way to get more out of the TRX system if he goes that way)

Thank you for info BTR

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No problem, If your friend goes with the TRX system, an XR250 CDI 96-03 with plastic tank will give slightly more advance & rev limit. The CDI is physically smaller but has the same plug.

Note: The 250 CDI will not work with XR4 wiring at all, even if you change the connectors to suit.

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I used all TRX parts and wiring harnes with mine. I had heard the sluggish response story with the TRX CDI as well, so I put in a Dynatek CDI on mine. I'm happy with this setup. although I cannot confirm this, I had also heard that the big problem with the XR400 CDI was that the motor wouldn't turn fast enough for the ignition to kick in. This is the reason for the XR650 CDI.

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No problem, If your friend goes with the TRX system, an XR250 CDI 96-03 with plastic tank will give slightly more advance & rev limit. The CDI is physically smaller but has the same plug.

Note: The 250 CDI will not work with XR4 wiring at all, even if you change the connectors to suit.

 

Is that from an e-start XR250?  We never had those up here.

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Is that from an e-start XR250? We never had those up here.

Not the e-start XR250, I'll take a photo of both units & post them here with part numbers shortly

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The one on the left is from an XR250, the one on the right is from a TRX400ex

Part number on the 250 unit is

ZTXF1202 it cost me $40-Aus on eBay

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1447796903.651932.jpg

Edited by Still-learning
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I used all TRX parts and wiring harnes with mine. I had heard the sluggish response story with the TRX CDI as well, so I put in a Dynatek CDI on mine. I'm happy with this setup. although I cannot confirm this, I had also heard that the big problem with the XR400 CDI was that the motor wouldn't turn fast enough for the ignition to kick in. This is the reason for the XR650 CDI.

Mine being Australian, standard we have a hi output stator to deal with the factory dual sport components, so I kept the standard electrical's & used a procom XR650 CDI as the standard XR650 CDI has a lower rev limit & more retarded timing than an XR4. Also the XR4 CDI will not fire until it see's 900rpm, the XR650 CDI fires from 600rpm (I think) hence the need for it as the E-start will not spin the engine fast enough to fire with the XR4 CDI.

To be honest, the TRX wiring is better as it is designed to be used with a battery.

Edited by Still-learning

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Just to clear things up a bit.

I have a TRX400ex and I also have an XR4 which I converted to E-start. I spent a lot of time on research & went through a LOT of trial & error to find what works the best on each bike hence all the parts just laying round.

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Thank you for all info,Im passing it to freind.Another Question.On all our Xr4s auto decompression,are converted to manual.We have them adjusted.So when Manual lever is held down all the way,it just barley works.We use this as starting aid,on Tour bikes.Would it be advantage,To hold down when hitting e button.Then let off on starting same as kick starting.?

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I never use my manual decomp unless I'm kicking, I have a stage 3 hot cam (no auto decomp) I feel this is a negative as the auto decomp helps to wind the engine over a bit longer & faster.

This does not affect my bike at all though. I have the BCR42 & I think due to that I fires on the first revolution.

A friend has the standard carb & stage 1 cam (no auto decomp) we had to enrich his idle mixture a bit to make it start well.

You can also lay the bike over before very cold start to flood the engine a little if enriching the mixture is not your thing.

Edited by Still-learning

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Would the XR400 Cdi fit on a late xr300?

Will not work unless TRX wiring, including pulse generator(pickup coil) & stator is also used.

Mixing of electrical part s very precise, earths change as well as the need for batteries & capacitors.

Wiring diagrames help but never tell the full story unless they are pre historically simple.

XR4 CDI will not plug in at all. Also different timing... Pretty sure it will not even work due to the earth location.

I may be be wrong as we don't have the XR300 in oz...

Edited by Still-learning

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Here is why we ditch auto decompress.Bike falls over on trail,more easy to clear.More easy to kick start,Have you ever seen what happens when it fly's apart.So that was my Question(Sorry I was not clear)Since we dont use it,would it benefit him.To hold down lever when hitting Estart button.To make motor spin harder? Thanks for all your help

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Never been necessary for me to hold decompressor lever when starting unless temps are below 35 degrees and the bike is cold. I took my manual lever off. If it's cold, I kick it through while I push the button and that gets it going enough to start. I'm spinning a 460 stroker motor with 11:1 compression ratio as well.

Edited by mtngoat
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Holding the leaver down while cranking is no real benefit at all. You will actually feel the valves kissing the piston when you do it.

Edited by Still-learning

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Hi,

I have just about got all the TRX parts for the XR E-start conversion including a TRX loom & CDI. I will hopefully get most of it done over christmas.

 

My weak point will be the electrics. Can I ask that those of you have used the TRX loom, what needs modifing to fit it to the XR? Is it a case of just shortnening or extending the loom to fit the XR frame? Any photo's?

 

Thanks in advance

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Yes, just shorten & length and as required. Just make sure you use the TRX pulse generator & stator also (parts inside the left engine cover) or you will have issues

Edited by Still-learning

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