YZ250 SSS forks: Need to get revalved for woods?

[rjpjnk]

Yeah. That looks like you have two groves already, but not far enough apart for the amount lowered.

 

I forget exactly what it looks like, but I remember there being some kind of clip that sat in the grove and the cone shaped spring stop thingy sat against it. Let me see if I can find some pictures.

[Snider]

Yeah. That looks like you have two groves already, but not far enough apart for the amount lowered.

 

I forget exactly what it looks like, but I remember there being some kind of clip that sat in the grove and the cone shaped spring stop thingy sat against it. Let me see if I can find some pictures.

i

 

 

Well theres a ring where the sprng cone rests,thats about two inches away from the two other groves.. these forks were lowered about two inches.. so I guess i'll have to move the ring to one of those two grooves below?

 

[rjpjnk]

I found some pics. Looks like yours was modified to allow for correcting the spring preload while shortened. You just have to move that stoper clip thing to one of the other groves. The position it is in now is for full length. Is that how you found it? That spring must have been so tight.

 

In this pic, I believe the one on the left is an original unmodified fork, and the one on the right has been shortened 40mm. You can see the retaining ring is on the lower grove to alow the spring to be less compressed.  The second pic shows the 40mm space itself installed on the damping rod. To restore to full length, you simply remove this spacer and put the spring retainer clip on the top grove as on the left. (I think yours is already in that position)

 

 

 

[rjpjnk]

Move spring retainer to the grove that is the same distance as the length of the spacer if you want to set up for shorterned length.

Edited November 26, 2015 by rjpjnk

[Snider]

Thanks! makes sense,BUT I have two grooves where the original position should be and one groove where the lowered position is.... Ha ha...I wonder which one I should use? Ooops I see you answered my question already.THANKS!!!

Edited November 26, 2015 by Snider

[Snider]

One other question... I had my 02 forks really dialed in with .44 springs. The SSS have .46.. Should I get some .44 springs or is it a good idea to use 46 with SSS? Mostly woods riding but going accross open desert to get there....

[LSHD]

Get my SSS forks back from FC on Friday. New springs and all the work came to around $500. Based on my other FC-tuned bike ('11 KX250F), this will be the best money I spend on the bike. RB squish mod tied for first also!

[stonefort]

I know a specific revalve is best....but Enzo revalved and resprung my SSS for my weight 150 and MX novice. I have raced some enduros with the clickers almost all the way out, they work really really well. So well that I am going to continue racing the enduro series as is. Btw these are on a 03 steel frame bike. I did the SSS swap.

Edited December 3, 2015 by stonefort

[asian195]

I did the sss swap on my 02 yz250. Best thing i ever did. They are stock 07 yz250f forks. I will eventually have them revalved but stock they were 1000% better. So much plusher.

[MANIAC998]

SSS Forks mounted up on my Steel framed, '03 WR300. Damn good forks, right out of the box!

[motoxvet]

 OP, As far as valving, have you read this thread?   https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1107104-the-kyb-sss-fork-offroad-revalve/

If not, spend some time and I'm sure you'll learn something valuable about other riders experience with their changes.

Edited December 4, 2015 by motoxvet

[LSHD]

 OP, As far as valving, have you read this thread?   https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1107104-the-kyb-sss-fork-offroad-revalve/

If not, spend some time and I'm sure you'll learn something valuable about other riders experience with their changes.

 

Thanks 'Vet! Will read it again. Right now I'm short on free time, so I figured I pay the guys that did such a fantastic job on my KX250F to do it again. Probably won't ride it for at least a week due to some other mods I'm waiting on, but will report back as soon as I do.

[motoxvet]

 LSHD, Yes, you better set aside some free time for reading that thread.  I see 32 pages at present.  It seems the general consensus is YES, you have to re-valve it for woods.  It seems though that the guys working on it are in a constant search for a good set-up without being too much of a compromise between woods/enduro and anything rougher or faster.  

Edited December 4, 2015 by motoxvet

[LSHD]

Yeah, if my forks would have been from a 2006 YZ250 instead of "unknown", I would have just ridden them for a while. They had 0.4 springs in them. And now they are all blinged out with FC coolness. They did an incredible job on my KX250F, so hopefully these will be just as nice.

[Snider]

I have a question for you SSS users... I notice the lower chamber has a capacity of 300-375cc fluid.. Does this amount have a effect on fork action like when you change the level in a open bath design fork? I noticed quite a difference with oil level changes in my old 02 forks... I figure for "woods" tuning you would want to lean towards the lower amount.. Right?

[numroe]

I have a question for you SSS users... I notice the lower chamber has a capacity of 300-375cc fluid.. Does this amount have a effect on fork action like when you change the level in a open bath design fork?

In SSS forks, the outer oil volume has a very noticeable effect on the effective spring rate in the last 1/3rd of the stroke. 5ml vol change in both sides is suprisingly noticeable in certain types of riding.

 

You use as little outer oil as you can, to avoid bottoming.  But you don't want to go below the KYB specified minimum, else your damper rod seal is not submerged often enough so the inner damper might draw air inside itself. If you feel a need to go below 300, or even 310, then consider a softer spring, or damping changes.

Edited December 6, 2015 by numroe

[Snider]

In SSS forks, the outer oil volume has a very noticeable effect on the effective spring rate in the last 1/3rd of the stroke. 5ml vol change in both sides is suprisingly noticeable in certain types of riding.

 

You use as little outer oil as you can, to avoid bottoming.  But you don't want to go below the KYB specified minimum, else your damper rod seal is not submerged often enough so the inner damper might draw air inside itself. If you feel a need to go below 300, or even 310, then consider a softer spring, or damping changes.

Thanks, I put 350cc in each outer chamber to start and put new .44 springs in. haven't got to ride it as I'm still waiting on my E bay caliper bracket.. I think the springs will need to break in somewhat before I get to doing the oil level or any damping changes....

[numroe]

You ideally find the right combination of spring preload, oil vol and spring rate, and then you get the spring force you need right through the stroke.

KYB might say 300 to 375 on the oil vol, but in practise if you need anything outside of 315 to 345 then look into revised spring rate or damping.

There is a lot to be gained in front tire traction and feel by finding the right combination of spring preload, rebound damping (clicker or stack mods) and fork height (in the triple clamps).

Sometimes you need to adjust the rear too, to balance out with front end changes.

The YZ250 is a sweet bike when dialed in. I love mine. 11 year old 2004 bike. Kinda weird. However it does have very good suspension, and sweet motor. Plus a gazillion hours went into developing that last of the steel frames.

[Snider]

I'm going to change to 325cc outer chamber before i go out

[numroe]

I'm going to change to 325cc outer chamber before i go out

FYI: You can reduce the oil level with the forks on the bike.  One leg at a time. Remove the front wheel.  Loosen the reb adjuster in the lug until you hear one thread click, so it's disengaged. Then hold a measuring cup under the fork lug, while you compress the fork a couple of mm. Let the oil pour out a little at a time. With the right measuring cup it's very easy to take out a few milliliters at a time.

 

I actually do mine with the front wheel on, and I use my Whipps (brand) lift stand to carefully lower the bike weight onto the wheel, so the adjuster just pops out and out comes a tiny amount of oil. Although probably best to do this first time with a helper.

Of course this assumes there is no dirt tucked up in there. Easy to clean using water and then a spray can of brake cleaner.