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2008 CRF 250R Bogs down/dies when I take it WFO

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Hey Guys,

 

So I'm really at a loss here. I've taken my 2008 CRF 250R to three different dealers, and I'm still having trouble with the throttle/carb. I brought it in to have the carb cleaned/fixed three times (two times by reputable dealers...once by an idiot), and I'm STILL running into the same problem. 

 

The bike fires fine, and runs great when I accelerate moderately. However, when I really rip on the throttle and open it up the bike just bogs down and dies. The last dealer told me that with 4 strokes it was common for them to bog down if you take the throttle from 0-max as fast as humanly possible from a stand still (I called BS but all the technicians backed him up). They told me I had the wrong sized pilot jet installed, but didn't mention anything about checking the main jet or float bowl. 

 

The bike was sitting for 5 years not stored properly. Anyone else have this problem? My logic is the bike's built for racing...why the hell would it be normal for it to die when you crank on the gas??

 

I have the mechanical capabilities of a child so I have no idea whether or not the issue could somehow be caused by something other than the carb.

 

Other than the throttle the bike is in almost brand new condition. I'm trying to sell it, but I just can't justify pouring more money into it when no one can accurately diagnose the problem.

 

Any help is really appreciated. This is driving me insane.

Edited by wetrippy

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Have you researched the accelerator pump mod, along with adding the merge racing spring? I could be wrong, but I think the 08 carb already has the AP diaphragm with the shorter button, but perhaps adding the spring could help. Hopefully others with more experience can chime in with some ideas, but search AP mod and give that a read.

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The 2007 and 2008 model years should not have the lean bog issue like the earlier models (2004-2006).  I suppose there's a chance that there are some earlier '07 models with '06 carbs on them, but your '08 should be good in this regard.  I'd say it simply needs a good cleaning and maybe a couple adjustments and it will be good to go.  Make sure you check the float height and fuel screw setting.  And if it's been sitting for five years, it could likely use a complete gasket kit and a new floating valve seal.  These are all minor things and can be done for under $50 by anyone that knows even a little about carburetors, or even by someone that knows nothing about carbs and has the service manual.  If a potential buyer offers you a lowball price because of the current running condition, tell him to pound sand because it is an easy fix.  And no, it isn't normal for all four strokes to bog when you whack the throttle.  My brother in law's '04 doesn't bog (surprisingly) and my '07 doesn't either.

 

How much are you selling it for?

Edited by mossman77

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The 2007 and 2008 model years should not have the lean bog issue like the earlier models (2004-2006).  I suppose there's a chance that there are some earlier '07 models with '06 carbs on them, but your '08 should be good in this regard.  I'd say it simply needs a good cleaning and maybe a couple adjustments and it will be good to go.  Make sure you check the float height and fuel screw setting.  And if it's been sitting for five years, it could likely use a complete gasket kit and a new floating valve seal.  These are all minor things and can be done for under $50 by anyone that knows even a little about carburetors, or even by someone that knows nothing about carbs and has the service manual.  If a potential buyer offers you a lowball price because of the current running condition, tell him to pound sand because it is an easy fix.  And no, it isn't normal for all four strokes to bog when you whack the throttle.  My brother in law's '04 doesn't bog (surprisingly) and my '07 doesn't either.

 

How much are you selling it for?

 

Thanks everyone for the responses it's a big help.

 

I think I'll try to find a buyer who knows what he's doing and can fix it relatively easily. I did have one guy lowball me at $2,100 because he claimed he'd have to rebuild the entire carb (clearly a rip off), and also because of the following:

 

The bike is in ridiculously good shape. I mean you really have to see it to understand. However, I bought it off my best friend from college (hence it sitting in a covered garage for 5 years) and his service records were misplace in a divorce. So...people have been lowballing me because I can't prove the bike's in the condition I claim it is, and I'm not one to argue to them. I see their point of view it's just a crappy situation. 

 

The only reason I'm selling is because I want a street bike, and prior to trying to sell my Honda I had no idea how you determined hours on a dirt bike. My first and only bike was a DRZ-400 with an odometer.

 

To answer your question mossman77 I was looking for ~$2,800 but since I don't have service records (other than the three I've had done since this July) I'm willing to negotiate.

 

In case anyone was wondering I do have the Title in my name since prior to 2008 they were only issuing MOC's(?) here in Colorado.

Edited by wetrippy

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If you have the time, you may want to invest in the service manual ($60), buy the gasket kit ($16) and floating seal ($16), and "rebuild" (meaning replace all the o-rings and gaskets) and clean the carb yourself.  Get the bike running then sell it for your asking price.  If you don't want to bother with it and truly do have the mechanical capability of a child, then you probably shouldn't tackle it.  However, that doesn't mean you should accept a lowball offer.  Someone that knows what they are doing can have it running within a couple hours at a cost of less than $50.  And anyone that's owned a bike knows that the carb will need to be cleaned after sitting for so long and that this is not a big deal at all. 

 

The trade-in on a 2008 CRF250R is $2,100 and the retail (excellent condition from dealer) is $3,100, so IMO your asking price is spot on. 

Edited by mossman77

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That's good advice from Mossman. There's a good video on rockymountainmcatv's website that details disassembly and cleaning for your carb. Get a new gasket set and give it a good cleaning and get your asking price for it.

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Thanks a lot guys I really appreciate it. I spoke to two different mechanics who both said if you pull on the throttle "like you're deliberately trying to kill it" that the bogging/dying is normal. Especially at these altitudes (5,280ft). I'm not certain on the validity of that, but at this point I'm going to try and sell the bike to a knowledgable buyer who can easily diagnose the issue and rebuild the carb if need be.

 

If I was going to keep the bike I would definitely learn to do it myself, but since I'm looking to switch to street I'd rather not spend the time and money.

 

Again thank you mossman77 and darkfader!!

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I back mossman, to me it sounds like a float height issue. The float is adjustable, and very commonly an overlooked item, especially when you're a flat rate technician. When I worked at a shop, I had a customers bike that I cleaned the carb, bike wouldn't want to go past mid throttle under load. Re-cleaned and still same issue. Checked float height, adjusted, and solved the issue. They normally don't need adjustment, but possible the first "tech" bent the tab on the float by accident when disassembling.

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Buy a JD jet kit, put it in following the simple instructions and ride it. I would say pilot is too big or accelerator pump diaphragm is decayed from the sit. You should be able to whack the throttle just as fast as you can and expect a good response when it is tuned proper.

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I would remove the subframe and "whack" the throttle a few time to make sure that there is fuel squirting from the accelerator pump. Could be a blockage there.

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