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3x3 and rejet lost top end

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I did the 3x3 mod JD jet kit . Blue needle third clip 155 main 25 pilot stock exhaust stock everything 2001 DRZ 400s 10000 miles . Bike is snappy as all get out in garage . On the street can't even pop the front tire off the ground . No back fire runs smooth just no torque . Ideas ?

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If you can't spot any assembly errors you can do a quick check of the MJ by taking the air box side cover off and go for a ride. Better? MJ is too big. Or tape off the 3x3 to about half that and ride it. Better? MJ is too small. No change either way? Jetting is probably close enough.

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Took door off air cover went for a ride no real change ... Can't even pop the tire in first . Sounds snappier than hell and idles great in the garage .

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Might be interesting to tune the fuel screw / pilot jet circuit. Search for the method - it involves setting the fuel screw & idle screw together so that you get the correct idle speed with the least amount of idle screw. It's done by getting the fuel screw & pilot working together right for best efficiency and thus highest vacuum pull at idle.

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Plan to hit the fuel screw before I take carb back apart ... Unfortunately it's snowing right now so no place to ride

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I recently went through a lot of fretting over the same topic...

Was told by many if it ain't "popping" (exhaust) it ain't tuned right.

Did not want to believe that, and was running my TT extended fuel screw at over 3 turns out....  Others advice kept ringing in my ears, and my end cap looked a bit too sooty (rich) so I began tuning in the fuel screw to a leaner setting.  My fuel screw is now at about 1.75 turns out, and it is running great and feels snappier.

 

For whatever that is worth...

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Thanks I better start with the fuel screw.  It just feels like under a load its a dog, in the garage in Nuetral and when it starts its snappier than hell. 

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check to see if the air diaphragm is sealed/installed correctly

Is that to top of the carb ??? I remember we were careful making sure we didnt loose the little Oring

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Is that to top of the carb ??? I remember we were careful making sure we didnt loose the little Oring

Yes, if its not seated in the groove the slide won't come up, =no power

Also make sure it is not torn or has a hole in it.

Edited by rustynut2

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I lost that little bitty o ring the first time I disassembled my carb. Had exactly the same affects as the op describes.

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Get a vacuum gauge and take the vacuum from the petcock and use the supplied fitting to connect the vacuum gauge and petcock. tune the fuel screw to the highest vacuum it will let you (somewhere around 2.5 turns) and then set the idle to 1700rpm (or whatever feels right) with the idle speed screw.

 

EDIT: if you cant afford a vacuum gauge at 20 dollars (i suggest you get one) you can do a little more rough of an adjustment by setting the fuel screw to the highest idle.

Edited by MoreBassXD
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Carbs coming back out . Played with fuel screw today and no change . Drives me nuts how nice it starts and idles just no torque

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Well ripped her out tonight, oring looked ok, diaphram good, springs good, needle spacers in order.. Cleaned every yet out with compressed air and carb cleaner reset the fuel screw....Put it back in thinking all was the same and WAMMOO wheelies out the wazoo! Dont know what I did but it runs like an ape now! 

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Well ripped her out tonight, oring looked ok, diaphram good, springs good, needle spacers in order.. Cleaned every yet out with compressed air and carb cleaner reset the fuel screw....Put it back in thinking all was the same and WAMMOO wheelies out the wazoo! Dont know what I did but it runs like an ape now! 

 

Sounds to me it was a vacuum issue and that slide was not lifting correctly ...Perhaps diaphragm was not seated correctly and now is...

Glad is a goer for you

Edited by Craigo

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