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Mods/Fixes Checklist - New Guy

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Hi Guys,

 

Just recently picked up a 2015 DRZ400S.  

 

I've been reading all over the web and the FAQ here.   If you have a minute can you please look over my checklist and see if I missed any fixes I should do or add any comments on your experience?  Particulary something that you might think is not necessary as preventative but only if a problem surfaces.   My goal is to correct whatever needs correcting to make reliabillity as high as possible.  I'm more interested in that than performance increases at this point.  So far I'm very happy with the bike's performance in terms of power for what I do.

 

Thanks,

 

FIXES/MUST DO MODS:

 

 

1.  Stator/Starter Loctite Fixes - blue loctite, depending on grade or bolt, torque to correct spec.   Might need a new gasket but existing should be able to be reused.

 

2.  Primary Nut Loctite Fix -

 

3.  Countershaft Sprocket Fix  Loctite 263 for this.

 

4.  Exhaust Header - loctite fix.

 

5.  Water Pump Leak - RTV Fix - need gasket.

 

6.  Counter Balancer Nut Fix

 

7.  Free Power Mod - I'm not sure about this one.  I know how to do it, but my understanding is that after this mod, if there is a fault anywhere in the electrical harness, the bike will be DOA until found and fixed.

 

8.  Order properly sized front and rear springs from RaceTech.

 

9.  Remove linkage, swingarm, wheels, steering stem.  Pack with grease, etc.  - done.   (replace all bearings with sealed ones next spring)

 

10.  Apply dielectric grease to connections.  Tape up electrical connections and wiring. - done.

 

11.  Upgrade headlight bulb - done.

 

12.  Case Savers - done.

 

13.  Grind shifter and rear brake sharp bits - done.

 

14.  Barkbusters - done.

 

15.  New bars - done.

 

16.  Skidplate - trying to find in stock source.  [Hyde]

 

17.  Get a seat concepts seat so this one does not sterillize me or cause my roids to develop self awareness.   It's not bad, but I need a butt break at about the two hour mark.  Maybe I should leave it.

 

OPTIONAL:

 

1.  3x3 and JD Jet kit - I'm happy with the performance of the bike and I don't want to increase noise level really.   I just prefer a quiet bike.  However, I always have to use the choke when starting so I was wondering if that is just a new bike thing, or if I should be doing something with the carb.   I am at +500 sea level, using 91 octane.  Unfotunately I only have Ethanol 10% in my area.   When starting without choke I open the throttle a little and press the starter.  It sounds like it might go and sometimes it catches for a bit, then stalls.  Starts fine everytime with choke half out.

 

2.  Considering the IMS 3.2 gallon tank.   I'm never 100s of miles from nowhere on the bike.   If I was going to do something like that, I'd order a Safari tank for the expedtion.  Otherwise I want to keep the weight down.

 

3.  Tail Tidy - I can live with as is.  Maybe the final touch.

 

4.  Tires - I hate to admit this, but so far I kind of like the Trailwings.   I ride street most of the way to my destinations, then some gravel and dirt road and then I camp.   If there is something better I should consider for this type of usage, let me know.   I guess I'm 80% street / 20% dirt road.

 

5.  Gearing - I'm pretty happy with stock.  Would consider 15/41.   That would require a 110 link chain correct?

 

6.  Get a better battery/bracket.

 

7.  Make or buy axle sliders - might seem silly on a "dirt bike" but I'm on the street a lot.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

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Your bike is still under warranty, Don't mess with 1-6. I've read where the newer bikes have some of the loctite fixes.

Get a Seat concepts seat and ride on.

Tires come and go, try many.

 

 

Flame jacket on, lets have it.

Edited by rustynut2
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#7 - The only thing after Free Power is if you blow a fuse the motorcycle will not run off of just the stator.  In the original configuration supposedly you can bump start the bike with a blown fuse.  This is true both in theory and in practice but frankly is difficult and not always successful.  By doing Free Power all the electrical power generated goes first to the battery then on down the system thru the 1 fuse to the rest of the motorcycle.  No fuse, nothing works.  But I would trade the greater reliability of the electrical system for the rare if ever need to bump start with no fuse.

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Was #9 necessary on a brand new bike?

on my 2014 I had very little to no grease. so I think that is a good one to do.

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'most' of it isnt necessary on a new bike a new bike isnt going to fall apart trust me, but alot of it is in how hard you are on it ... for one thing if you dont need anything more than trailwings you arnt being hard enough on the bike to need any 'fixes', i never did any of them anyway and the bike is fine, i bought it new in '99 ..  but some people take a bike and torture it from day one and thats normal to them, that approach requires more attention because they are more or less racing it non-stop .. race machines require constant maintenance ...

- greasing everything is elementary, new bikes generally come with sparse lube they dont want a greasy dirty bike on the salesfloor  ..
- jetting, yeah do that
-tank, yeah if you need it replace the stocker thats worth about 4X as much with a piece of plastic garbage that looks like crap ...
-gearing, stock is the best all around unless you need to tailor to extreme circumstance like extended highway or nothing but offroad ..
-stock battery is fine, take care of it and it will last for years.
-axle sliders, cosmetic eye candy .. if you wipe out on the street its going to fk your bike up period ..
-suspension, if you want to play with it it can be made better .. its a want/need type of thing, offroading will really benefit, onroad really wont imo .. but it would be nice to have a tuned suspension on any vehicle ..
-free power mod, wouldnt hurt, but mine isnt 'doa' after 16 years and i never did it ..

 

Was #9 necessary on a brand new bike?

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Do the grease fixes now while the bike is new. The swing arm bolt in particular will come out easily since it hasn't had time to corrode into place. I did mine when it was a couple of months old and the bolt was completely dry. The shock linkage needle bearings only had a tiny dab of grease from the factory, and the steering head bearings were also almost dry.

 

The 3x3 mod will make the bike a lot more responsive. You won't know how bad the stock jetting is until you do it. Also, I am running a Clark 3.9 tank and really appreciate the extended range.

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Hi Guys,

 

Just recently picked up a 2015 DRZ400S.  

 

I've been reading all over the web and the FAQ here.   If you have a minute can you please look over my checklist and see if I missed any fixes I should do or add any comments on your experience?  Particulary something that you might think is not necessary as preventative but only if a problem surfaces.   My goal is to correct whatever needs correcting to make reliabillity as high as possible.  I'm more interested in that than performance increases at this point.  So far I'm very happy with the bike's performance in terms of power for what I do.

 

Thanks,

 

FIXES/MUST DO MODS:

 

 

1.  Stator/Starter Loctite Fixes - blue loctite, depending on grade or bolt, torque to correct spec.   Might need a new gasket but existing should be able to be reused.

 

2.  Primary Nut Loctite Fix -

 

3.  Countershaft Sprocket Fix  Loctite 263 for this.

 

4.  Exhaust Header - loctite fix.

 

5.  Water Pump Leak - RTV Fix - need gasket.

 

6.  Counter Balancer Nut Fix

 

7.  Free Power Mod - I'm not sure about this one.  I know how to do it, but my understanding is that after this mod, if there is a fault anywhere in the electrical harness, the bike will be DOA until found and fixed.

 

8.  Order properly sized front and rear springs from RaceTech.

 

9.  Remove linkage, swingarm, wheels, steering stem.  Pack with grease, etc.  - done.   (replace all bearings with sealed ones next spring)

 

10.  Apply dielectric grease to connections.  Tape up electrical connections and wiring. - done.

 

11.  Upgrade headlight bulb - done.

 

12.  Case Savers - done.

 

13.  Grind shifter and rear brake sharp bits - done.

 

14.  Barkbusters - done.

 

15.  New bars - done.

 

16.  Skidplate - trying to find in stock source.  [Hyde]

 

17.  Get a seat concepts seat so this one does not sterillize me or cause my roids to develop self awareness.   It's not bad, but I need a butt break at about the two hour mark.  Maybe I should leave it.

 

OPTIONAL:

 

1.  3x3 and JD Jet kit - I'm happy with the performance of the bike and I don't want to increase noise level really.   I just prefer a quiet bike.  However, I always have to use the choke when starting so I was wondering if that is just a new bike thing, or if I should be doing something with the carb.   I am at +500 sea level, using 91 octane.  Unfotunately I only have Ethanol 10% in my area.   When starting without choke I open the throttle a little and press the starter.  It sounds like it might go and sometimes it catches for a bit, then stalls.  Starts fine everytime with choke half out.

 

2.  Considering the IMS 3.2 gallon tank.   I'm never 100s of miles from nowhere on the bike.   If I was going to do something like that, I'd order a Safari tank for the expedtion.  Otherwise I want to keep the weight down.

 

3.  Tail Tidy - I can live with as is.  Maybe the final touch.

 

4.  Tires - I hate to admit this, but so far I kind of like the Trailwings.   I ride street most of the way to my destinations, then some gravel and dirt road and then I camp.   If there is something better I should consider for this type of usage, let me know.   I guess I'm 80% street / 20% dirt road.

 

5.  Gearing - I'm pretty happy with stock.  Would consider 15/41.   That would require a 110 link chain correct?

 

6.  Get a better battery/bracket.

 

7.  Make or buy axle sliders - might seem silly on a "dirt bike" but I'm on the street a lot.

 

Thanks!

Sounds like ya got it covered.  :thumbsup:

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9.  Remove linkage, swingarm, wheels, steering stem.  Pack with grease, etc.  - done.   (replace all bearings with sealed ones next spring)

 

 

Do you guys have a link to a good tutorial that covers all the areas that should be greased?

 

Just bought a 2008 SM, guy didn't ride it that much.  Makes some squeaking noises when moving from a stop that sounds exactly like its due to low lubrication in a bearing.  Would love to do a full grease job to it this weekend. 

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Check FAQ at the top of the page.  Whatever there is, is there.

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List looks solid to me but might want to wait on anything that might void warranty if bike is truely new.  I don't think I'd cut into wiring to do the free power mod until out of warranty. 

 

- I don't see any reason to locktite the exhaust header since heat is how you get locktite to loosen it would seem a waste of effort.

- I don't see any reason to mess with the battery bracket unless you're changing the battery size. It's fine as is for stock.

- I didn't see where you are addressing the stock cam chain tensioner. As far as I know it still needs replacing with the manual version available in TTStore.

 

ron

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