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JD kit installation suggestions needed

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I've got a 2012 250x that I bought recently and the thing bogs really bad when I hit the throttle 1/4.  So, I bought the JD kit, FMF header, and exhaust....to start.  I'm in the process of installing the JD kit and am now thinking with all this stuff pulled off....should I be doing anything else while its torn apart? This project kind of sucks so I don't want to do it again....little time to play and down time kills! 

 

Just shooting from the hip here because I really don't know what is available:

 

Smog removal?

Air box mods or kits?

Carb kits?

Air cleaner kit?

Anything else come to mind? 

 

Also, any suggestions on the install of the JD kit?  I'm located at 1000' and it's winter.  Is there a setting or jet I can use so I will not have to rip my bike apart every winter/summer for temp changes? 

 

I'm not racing this thing...just ripping up the trails.

 

Thanks everyone for any advise!

Edited by ducati07

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You have winter at 1000' in CA?

1000" is considered sea level. Cold is where they have real winters.

 

Yes, by all means do check the accelerator pump squirt before you pull the carb.

The AP should squirt under the slide as you twist the throttle. If not you need to do a carb clean and some AP adjustments. Usually these are a fouled AP discharge port, fixable by cleaning. Some times it is an adjustment of the AP linkage, JD includes 2 O rings for the AP linkage for early Xs, later Xs like yours don't need the fix.

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/823137-how-to-eliminate-the-bog/

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/Fixing-the-dreaded-lean-bog-on-Keihin-FCR-MX-carbu/

 

http://crfsonly.com/howto/ap-mod/professor-redbeard450-ap-mod-how-to-guide.php

 

In addition to the above just follow the JD instructions.

 

DO NOT soak the carb in carb cleaner. It has O ring type gaskets separating the two parts of the carb and soaking will damage them. Replacement gaskets are not avail from Honda or Keihin. JD does have some gaskets. New carb is about $500.

 

The JD kit and CCC mods really wake up the motor.

 

Enjoy.

Edited by Chuck.

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Haha!  No kidding...it's really not a true winter where I'm at in Cali! 

 

Thanks Chuck for the heads up with those parts!

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Not many people on here from Columbia but I think there are a couple from Cali.   Do some searches of old posts and see if you can find them and see what they run.

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While you have it apart, you might want to install a metal hot start nut. The plasic ones are a bit fragile and once they crack and leak they cause all sorts of trouble.

 

If you do remove the pair (smog) system, it might make sense (your being in Cali and such) that you just block it off, but leave the hardware in place. That way you won't get busted riding in the parks. It's nothing we have to worry about up here, but you may run into it.

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Pull the hot start and measure the free length of the spring, stretch it until almost twice the length, and reinstall. This increases closing pressure on the Hot Start.

Check  the Hot Start cable for free motion and no binding, lube it.

Lube the lever pivot.

Route the cable per the Owners Manual.

 

Check the throttle cables for routing, also in the Manual.

Releasing a twisted throttle should result in a fast close with a thunk if the cables are routed properly, in good condition, and not adjusted too tight.

 

The Pink Wire mod seems to increase a mid rpm hit, leave it connected for technical riding.

The TPS controls part throttle ignition advance so you can fuss with the initial resistance to fine tune throttle response, or disconnect it for low traction situations.

 

As previously posted the JD kit and CCC mods really wake up the engine.  I'm running basically at sea level with a JD Jetting kit, most of the CCC mods, and stock exhaust:

158 main
42 pilot
Red needle 5th

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JD has great technical support. I suggest calling them and telling them exactly what aftermarket components and mods you're running so they can get your initial jetting spot on. I also strongly recommend installing an RD Flexjet adjustable fuel screw for fine tuning the idle circuit with just your fingers. Without it, the starter motor really crowds the area below the carb, making adjustments with the engine running difficult.

You're going to like the improved performance, so this "involved" work is well worth the effort.

Getting a longer air filter screw from an early 250R ('04) really makes air filter installation much easier. I really like Twin Air air filters for this bike since they do not have the glued-on lip which seals to the air box. I've found those lips to separate, which can allow dirt into your engine. I also find their slightly smaller profile easier to install than OEM and other brands

Have fun, and please let us know how your bike turns out.

Edited by motrock93b

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