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2015 fe501s 5000 km review

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So I just rolled over 5000 km and figured I would do a review... first thing I did was put on Enduro eng. Skid plate, srt rad guards, moose racing bush guards and a p3 pipe guard all still on bike but skid plate now gets neverseized on tapered head and threads to eliminate busted hardware on removal. Then 10 minutes later break in... my method is warm up bike then run it normal for 1/2 hour, back to garage for a cool to ambient... torque check on everything accessible while cooling then another half hour blast hitting w.o.t. a few times then cool again... changed oil and filter cleaned screens, then the regular beatings started. But then changed gearing to 13-51 stock gearing way too high for my style of riding... and after hitting 165 km/h I realized there I'd no need for me to be going that fast on her anyway... got a set of warp 9 wheels for road riding with Kenda k 270 front and back.. tubliss and balanced tire wear is good 2000 km on them and still rollin' and off road is good they are not great at anything but they are good at everything... my off road tires are mousse and best tires have been the metzler 6 days but they don't last and are expensive... the golden tire 230 are good and last but are now dicontinued... winter stud tires on now... changed front and rear springs to the heavy springs 60 Nm rear and 47 Nm front. oil from first change is motul 10-60 7100 and I have done 9 oil changes in 5000 km including break in change now I'm on a 1000 km oil change with filter every second oil change... I have been cutting open and inspecting the filters from the start and never any real crap in them so that's how it's going till I see different. Also one oil change was when a stick jammed my sight glass in and was leaking a bit Checked valves 3 times and still rolling within spec. At 1200 km I desmoged, pro moto end cap and remapped, and yes it is much better after, it only flames out now on operator error.the signal lights are very strong I finally snapped a rear at 4500 km and put on the drc led compacts... been through 3 sets of brake pads ebc seem to last longest... 2 plugs and 1 was just after break in. Just installed some dual star grip warmers... front forks have been resealed 3 times and rear started leaking at 4800 km so I sent them too pro action suspension and had everything revavled and sealed also put the wp bladder on the rear shock it's a tight squeeze now as the bladder system is a bit longer then the oem accumulator was... rear wheel bearings got loose and changed at 4500 km on both wheels fronts still tight. Check spokes on oem wheels regularly the warp 9's not as much. Running tirox coolant not much boiling over with the fan... all in all I have come from 2 gas gas 300 ' s an 11 and a 13 both awesome bikes but this bike has same plush suspension feel as my gas gas but boat loads more power... everyday and everywhere I ride I like this bike more and more .... and I like the ride to wrenching ratio it favors the riding not wrenching... hope this may have been helpful or at least a good read any questions just ask.

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Are you saying new forks seals 3 times and a new real seal in the first 5,000 km?

 

 

If so, Damn!

 

 

 

Im close to 18,000 km's, original fork and shock seals and bearing , spark plug and no valve adjust yet  ..  about to install 2nd set of rear pads , after original set. Original last the longest. Otherwise Id only have replaced one rear set.

Edited by Spud786

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Really wow I must be extra hard on stuff... and the rocky mountains I ride in probably don't help but that is crazy you have triple the km and less then half the wear.... that picture is 30 minutes from my front door the continental divide on the left... singletrack heaven dropping down and right.... just going to have to get more smooth on the bike

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Very nice area  , I have alittle over 200 hours on my bike, its also the ktm500.   My view, wp chroming on the tubes is very good and wear resistive, seal life thus far looks fine and normal.   

 

 

 

You must be getting some kind of contamination in your seals routinely, assuming there's not some kind of manufacturing design issue, or 3rd party parts issue.

 

I routinely try to flush out my seal area  Ridely or every other , with like original armoral, aides with seal wipers staying supple.  Maybe a water spray bottle would aide too keep stuff flushed out as a prewash, then do the armoral.

 

I don't consider your seal replacements normal, and a rear seal failure in addition in that short of time, is odd.

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Ya I could definetly clean them in more detail more often but the rear seal seemed to blow out faster then I thought it would.... just before the rear blew out it did take a few hard bottom outs on some big jumps but everything was straight on the rebuild... I wash my bike after every ride never with pressure washer just a dishwashing brush and the garden hose... im gonna try the armorall and use my seal doctor more... I can't see myself taking it easier on her that's for sure.

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Ya I could definetly clean them in more detail more often but the rear seal seemed to blow out faster then I thought it would.... just before the rear blew out it did take a few hard bottom outs on some big jumps but everything was straight on the rebuild... I wash my bike after every ride never with pressure washer just a dishwashing brush and the garden hose... im gonna try the armorall and use my seal doctor more... I can't see myself taking it easier on her that's for sure.

On the inside of a seal, there's a very tiny wiper ridge, normally that spider webs or fragments, and then seal will never seal well.  Im not really a fan of sticking anything in the seal, other than just kind of flushing them routinely.

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Hmmm well the contamination is dirt everytime... good parts skf seals... I have to clean them better and more often then I do...I use the doctor when they start weeping which holds off full leak... for a while. That's a lot of pulling wiper seal off and on... it's winter here again so stuff stays much cleaner in the snow

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Yeah buddy! Nice to see someone post here who actually rides their bike! Too many people posting here just sit at home and post acrimonious erroneous content. At 1300 total miles my only two complaints are that the stock headlight is useless. This last wed night I returned from a 250 mile ride over half of it was in the dirt. The last 70 miles on the pavement was scary! Despite having up graded to a 55/60 watt bulb it is still useless. The reflector design is a failure. The low works better than the high beam. I see a Baja Designs LED. Coming under the Xmas tree. My only other complaint is I can't keep a rear tire on this bike lol..! I am only getting two to three rides out of one. I guess I'll have to start a bank account just for rubber! Oh yeah and I'm about to gear this thing up. You don't hear that too often from the KTM/ Husky crowd. I do ride fast. A 43 or 44 rear is in my near future. Have you or anyone here tried the Moto Z Tractionator rear tire on a 500 Husky or KTM?

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The motoz tractionator desert lasted me a while but it is terrible in greasy stuff and should be called tractionless on wet roots haha... but ya I hear you on keeping tires on the back end is tough and now that golden tire is done im not sure what I'm going to go with im gonna try some Kenda parker dt's when the snow melts dot approved but they are hard I'm expecting them to be like the tractionators but we will see.... wow serious in gearing up? No way I could ride the tight single track with stock gearing... I run my tires till they are so done, then when a new one goes on it fells like the best tire ever no matter how crappy they are haha... I use a Baja designs Stryker helmut light to help with the night riding... but it is definitely not dot approved and will blind anyone that looks at it... what are you running for a gas tank mine is stock and there is now way without carrying extra gas in bottles on my back that I can go that far... 200 km max with stocker

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Thanks for the feedback on the Moto Z Tire. I've been happy with the Dunlop 606 on the rear I run a Maxis desert in the front. It is not DOT Approved but I don't give a care about that. It actually does a pretty fair job on the pavement even wet pavement for a front knobby. In the past on other bikes I've been happy with the Pirelli MT 21 in the rear but I have a feeling this bike would eat one for breakfast. In this part of California we have a lot of Forest Service dirt roads and County dirt roads. Thus the tall gearing . I can ride from my house in Willits to the Oregon border (over 500 miles) and only cross pavement a few times. I don't have a problem with my bikes top speed. I just like the way it hits with taller gearing when you grab a handful in let's say 2nd or 3rd. I tried a 46 rear for a few rides and found I was shifting way to often for an open class bike. The gears were running out too quick. I have a 06 kdx 200 for single track work. Oh yeah I have an IMS 3.1 gallon tank. It's only 3 quarts larger than stock. With my bike uncorked it feels like I'm still on a short leash. With my throttle twisting habits I'm only getting about 40 to 45 miles per gallon not the 68 some people claim! I recommend the acerebis 4 gallon tank. I I'm a candidate and will be picking one up soon. The acerebis tank is only wider in the forward section where the radiator shrouds would be. The acerebis tank has radiator shrouds incorporated and provide a good deal of radiator protection unlike the IMS tank. I will include some KTM part numbers you will need to install the IMS tank. Nowhere in the IMS literature does it mention anything about this. If you get the ims tank you will not be able to mount it on your bike and ride that day unless you have these parts. You need a different fuel connector#78107088017 and pump nut#78107088014 from KTM. Throttle on! I included a pic of the IMS tank on my bike. If you don't ever ride more than 100 miles three gallons might suit you.

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I hear you on the short shifting with lower gearing but I can mess up more and not shift out of 3rd gear climbing hills and way easier on the clutch banging but I'm trying to do everything with one bike... and of all the bikes o have been on this one is the best at everything I can still pass on the highway with ease and ride technical singles in the same ride... let me know how the acerbis tank works for you.... no point spending all that cash for a couple more km's... and I agree it hits wicked with stock it's just too fast for me ... my rides I barely see 4th. I can hit the alberta/ montana border from my house but I need backpack bombs for that run...

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Oh ya tackle what are you using for wheel balancing? I have been using no-mar re useable weights now but they make the wheels feel real heavy and it seems harder to initiate turns... something about physics and gyroscopic forces... haha I am thinking of trying the counteract balancing beads but even if they work they will still add weight with same gyro forces I would expect... and it would only be for looks not too have big weights on my spokes and I think bearings last a little longer with balanced wheels

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Motorcycle gearing is a personal preference. Sounds like you got yours figured out. Rock it! Wheel balancing on a dirt bike!? I've thought of it but never tried it. I trust KTM engineers got it close with the placement of the rim lock. I know every tire tube combo balances differently but I have never been concerned about it on a dirt bike even while racing in the desert. I've never met an off road racer concerned about wheel balance. Only on flat track have I seen anyone balancing wheels on a dirt bike. At 4.1 gallons would almost double my range over stock. I don't like stopping at every single gas station I pass. High five!

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Yup it gets rocked for sure... and ya balancing makes a huge difference on my bike any way... next time you have your wheels off stuff a broom handle and a ladder ( I know rudementry but it works if you dont have a stand I use my old mountian bike wheel trueing stand) and tell me if those engineers have it right with rim lock and valve 4" away from each other... my warp 9's are on opposite sides of each other better but still need some weights for high speed vibration can't tell on dirt but the pavement is way way smooth... and we all know smooth is fast haha thanks for the info... keep the rubber side down!! And I hope one day to do a trip to cali and Vegas for some real desert and dunes... not too much of that up here in the cold north

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Ah a true bike mechanic! Broom stick and a ladder. I got the picture. I do some minor truing myself. You definitely got my respect. I will have to give balancing a try. To date I have only concerned myself with balancing wheel s on my road bikes both my Harley and Yamaha FZ 1 have mag wheels. Nice not worring about spokes. Almost embarrassed to mention that I have a Harley too. Hardly turns! Enough of that this is a dirt bike thread!

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Ya I learned a long time ago biking is too expensive if you can't fix it all yourself... helps to be a millwright and electrician as well...and I trust no one touching my baby.... so what's the difference between a vacuum and a Harley? Placement of the dirtbag hahaha hope all Harley riders here can take a joke... I'm just jealous I don't have one, although I would like a moto guzzi 750 racer if I had the choice and a winning lotto ticket... it don't matter two wheels is the way

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Funny! I agree the only way to get real satisfaction is to work on your own equipment. I do about 99 percent of my bike wrenching to myself. I do not have the tools for complete suspension tear downs rebuild revalve etc. I leave that to the real pros fortunately I know a few. I inherited

The Harley from a friend who passed a few years ago. It sat in my garage for a long time before I touched it. I started getting curious there was no way of knowing how much money my friend put in the motor. One clue was one of the largest Mikuni flat slide carbs I've ever seen! Me and my 70 year old dad decided to restore and resurrect it. Were we surprised. The thing was fast! Way fast! Its not my favorite bike to ride though. It handles like a wheelbarrow with a rocket engine! Lol. These new Husqvarnas really are dope. I am really enjoying the suspension and handling characteristics. Nothing like the old xr600s I used to praise. I am used to open class for strokes being heavy and sluggish handling. I got my fe 501s husky on Black Sands beach the other day and was even impressed by how it handled deep sand. For a moment I thought I was on a two stroke!

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Well now I feel like an a$$ for making a Harley joke haha... and yes I compare the 501 to my gas gas 300 ' s very smooth suspension just more and better delivered power... I can't wait to put my paddle tire on her and hit proper sand didn't get the chance this summer but it is gonna happen...

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My latest addition's and modification's to my 15 fe 501s are as follows. I replaced the shift lever tip with a KTM/ Husky power 5mm longer tip. Feals much better and easier to find with an MX Boot. I always wear my Alpine stars when I ride! I added the husky power manual fork bleeder valves. They work! If you rotate the forks in the clamps you can position the bleeders to where you can bleed the forks on the fly with no tools! I lowered the brake lever as far as the hydraulic cylinder shaft lock but would allow. There is a set bolt on the frame you must adjust as well . Also feels much better. All this is explained in the owner's manual. Not where I got the idea these controls needed adjusted for my preference. I have also move the handlebars to the furthest forward position. There are four. Once again consult owner's manual. At 155lbs 5' 10.5" I had to back off the stock rear spring preload. The balance the bike out I had to raise the forks in the triple clamps about a half inch. I actually used amicrometer to get them both exact. On the front forks I am running 26 clicks out on the compression and 11 clicks out on the rebound. On the rear shock I am running 7 clicks out on the rebound + 26 clicks out on the low speed compression I left the high speed compression setting stock. Maxxis desert front dunlop 606 rear.I do ride very fast I don't do huge big air jumps but I hit things at speed like 3 foot whoops and soccer ball size ruts and rocks up to 80 miles an hour have been tested. Feels like smooth pavement to a rider over 40! Stock gearing rocks for me! Throttle on!

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My latest addition's and modification's to my 15 fe 501s are as follows. I replaced the shift lever tip with a KTM/ Husky power 5mm longer tip. Feals much better and easier to find with an MX Boot. I always wear my Alpine stars when I ride! I added the husky power manual fork bleeder valves. They work! If you rotate the forks in the clamps you can position the bleeders to where you can bleed the forks on the fly with no tools! I lowered the brake lever as far as the hydraulic cylinder shaft lock but would allow. There is a set bolt on the frame you must adjust as well . Also feels much better. All this is explained in the owner's manual. Not where I got the idea these controls needed adjusted for my preference. I have also move the handlebars to the furthest forward position. There are four. Once again consult owner's manual. At 155lbs 5' 10.5" I had to back off the stock rear spring preload. The balance the bike out I had to raise the forks in the triple clamps about a half inch. I actually used amicrometer to get them both exact. On the front forks I am running 26 clicks out on the compression and 11 clicks out on the rebound. On the rear shock I am running 7 clicks out on the rebound + 26 clicks out on the low speed compression I left the high speed compression setting stock. Maxxis desert front dunlop 606 rear.I do ride very fast I don't do huge big air jumps but I hit things at speed like 3 foot whoops and soccer ball size ruts and rocks up to 80 miles an hour have been tested. Feels like smooth pavement to a rider over 40! Stock gearing rocks for me! Throttle on!

Now your posts are starting to make sense to me!

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