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Beta 300RR racing suspension issues..

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Hi Guys, I bought myself a 14 300rr racing model and find the red zokes too harsh and stiff -(it's sprung correctly for my weight, i've tried everything to get them to work), and I just can't get on with them as I ride a lot of choppy, slow speed roots rocks etc.   Can I fit a pair of Sachs open chamber forks straight onto the bike in my current clamps ?   (Do I need to change the wheel, spacers or brake bracket ?)   Are these sachs better for slower speed riding ?   What rate spring rate do the sachs come with stock ?   And do the red zoke springs fit into the sachs forks ?    I appreciate any info, Thanks guys

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I have a 2013 with oc sachs. They sucked until I had LTR revalve them...now they are very compliant.

I ride the same type of terrain...lots of roots and rocks.

My advice is call Les at ltr and see what he thinks about the zokes....maybe he can work some magic on them so you don't have to swap.

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IMHO, These are great CC forks, once properly tuned.

There's a lot of good data out there for these forks. A lot of tuners know these forks well, I'm sure you could find a good tuner over on your side of the pond.

 

Even the 2014 OC Sachs forks for most need proper tuning. 

Worst case, Les @ LTR has done lots of these CC forks, I've spoken with him pertaining to tuning them (CC Marzocchi's) properly for peoples needs. 

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Dude, just get them re-valved for your needs.

 

The fact that they are CC is not relavant to the ride quality you are experiening.

 

It's ALL about piston oil flow and valving.

 

LT 

Stillwell

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Revalve is easy fix and they work well. Until then, turn your rebound way in to < 5 out, PFP full CCW. That should help it a little until you get inside.

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Revalve is easy fix and they work well. Until then, turn your rebound way in to < 5 out, PFP full CCW. That should help it a little until you get inside.

 

There is no way to transfer your possibly succesful clicker postions to another bike, unless they both have the same hours, oil, oil condition, fork part tolerances, etc.

 

Fork innards are built fast and cheap. From fork to fork there is easly a 20% variance in tolerances....then add in all the wear component issues....

 

The best thing you can do, unless you really want to become an expert on Marzochi's, is to send them to an expert.

It's not that expensive, and it will litterally transform the way the bike feels, in all respects. 

 

Your tires touch the ground on a tiny little patch of rubber. That patch needs to be in total control to give you the confident feed back to go faster.

 

Remember, the wheel needs to STICK to the ground at all times.....so you might need much much more rebound to get it to ride smoother.....because chatter from a fast moving shaft translates into a tire that is struggling to make contact....

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I have revalved a few sets of these for myself and my buddy. Biggest problem is too much free bleed,on the mid and rebound. Removing some with the adjuster, while not a real fix, will help slightly.

Edited by GP
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Thanks for all the info guys, i'm just weary off sending them too a suspension company in my country, U.K, as they are quite pricey over here.  I wouldn't want to lay out all that dough and find the forks are still not where I want them, I'm coming from kyb sss stuff, so I know what a good fork feels like..   I will look in to it further, Thanks again.

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I even thought of just jumping ship to a new Xtrainer, I hear great things about those bikes..

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I even thought of just jumping ship to a new Xtrainer, I hear great things about those bikes..

If you don't like your Marzocchis swapping to the Sachs won't fix your problems. We've done numerous Marzocchis and have them on par with woods-specific KYBs ...

 

The XTrainer is a very different bike from what you're riding, but it may be a better choice.

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I even thought of just jumping ship to a new Xtrainer, I hear great things about those bikes..

Just trying to wake you up..."get your head out of your ass"

You want really crapy suspension that no mods will sort out, buy an xtrainer!......you better ride one first.

I know what I'm talking about....I just went through it with the xt, hours of valving and revalving...it's a very old, poor design.

The cheapest fix to your problem is to send out your forks and shock...period

With shipping your looking at about $800.00 to $1000.00.

Buying a new bike, with poor or poorly set up suspension is just going to put you right back where you are now, just on a different bike.

Swaping suspension that needs revalving isn't a fix either because you'll still need to address the valving issues.

Here's my advice...Call Les at LTR, he has a lot of experience with zokes and sachs....won't cost you anything to talk to him.

He just did my forks and shock and they're awesome, his prices are very reasonable, he tunes the fork in it's entirety, blending all the circuits together so it's ballanced.

The guy know's his stuff.

Just saying :)

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I live in the uk aswell, give FTR suspension a call, they got my ktm forks as plush as anything. Good service and includes a setup booklet to tell you what to do and suggested setup.

If not try race tech, very good work also.

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"Just trying to wake you up..."get your head out of your ass"

 

You want really crapy suspension that no mods will sort out, buy an xtrainer!......you better ride one first.

 

The cheapest fix to your problem is to send out your forks and shock...period

 

Just saying :)

 

 

I totally agree !!

 

I just went and test rode a 2016 XTrainer.  Tire pressures set at 12 frt/ 10rr .   I rode in semi hard packed dirt and was not impressed with the harshness at medium (25-35mph) speeds.  Didn't go any faster as I knew it wasn't going to get any better.

 

Going real slow over rocky sections it was pretty good.....just pretty good.

 

As posted above send your current bike's suspension out and you'll be WAY ahead of the "game".

 

Then you can enjoy your Beta !

 

 

 

 

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I live in the uk aswell, give FTR suspension a call, they got my ktm forks as plush as anything. Good service and includes a setup booklet to tell you what to do and suggested setup.

If not try race tech, very good work also.

How much did ftr charge to do your forks ?   did they work your shock also ?

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If you are in the uk then use Dr Shox,he knows his stuff and used to be a marzok works rider,he did a superb job on the rear too. I swapped my zorks out for KYB. Give him a call.i couldn't get on with the zorks so dropped them before I got deeper.

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That's right KRANNIE ,the rear affects the front,rider sag seems v important on these bikes a lot.

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If you are in the uk then use Dr Shox,he knows his stuff and used to be a marzok works rider,he did a superb job on the rear too. I swapped my zorks out for KYB. Give him a call.i couldn't get on with the zorks so dropped them before I got deeper.

What was involved in the kyb swap ?  what SSS did you use, Yamaha yzf?

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What was involved in the kyb swap ?  what SSS did you use, Yamaha yzf?

 

Not that I have done it to the BETA bikes, but I have done a few SSS swaps from YZ to WR, and it is a fantastic fork and shock.

Forks in great condition are available on ebay for $250.

 

They still MUST be revalved for offroad, as they are not done that well at the factory.

A basic shim stack shuffler and correct oil height will give you forks that follow the terrain with ease, and do NOT dive or bottom.

 

Here's the scoop:

2006 is the first year of the 'real' KYB SSS suspension. Previous years are not desired.

 

2006  YZ 250/450 SSS forks use the 'wide mount spacing' caliper

2007 and later YZ 250/450 SSS forks use the 'narrow mount spacing' caliper.

2009 and later vary from 125/250/450/250 twostroke, so you have to check.

The difference is visually obvious on the fork leg mounts.

The Nissin Caliper on the Beta is one or the other, but I have not verified personally which one. Probably the later 'narrow' version

 

You can probably use the BETA front wheel without some creative spacer swapping, but if not, you can get a WR or YZ used wheel in pristine condition for under $50....!

The Disc should line right up with any.

Edited by KRANNIE
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