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Loud cackle/popping on hard acceleration.

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I don't have one on hand. Will I get a way with out replacing the sprockets? They look really good to me. I haven't had time to look at it more. Two 13hr days a work have limited my shop time. I should have a normal day tomorrow so I'll get pics of sprockets and look the chain over. I'll update tomorrow. Thanks for the help so far!

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Well I didn't know that this chain didn't have the clip style link so I have not taken it off. My inspection leads me to believe the chain is shot. The side facing outward look pretty good, but the side facing towards hub is very corroded. Any suggestions on new chains? Is this a 520 and how many links? I don't have my manual yet. I'm sure a search will tell me aswell. I feel that this may be the issue.

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It's a 520 size chain , I think something like 110 links but not sure , I usually get 116 or so length and cut to length. If you can jack up the bike and loosen the rear wheel up , then push it as far forward as possible you may be able to get the chain off the side of the sprocket . Then you can twist and prod it to see if it has real loose areas or tight spots. If chains get worn and stretched(aka cheap chains) the chain will ride up on the teeth of the sprockets due to the increased pin to pin length that no longer matches the tooth spacing. That will cause a cracking or snapping sound.

 

You really should replace the sprockets with the chain if the chain has been worn badly , it wrecks the sprocket teeth that will quickly do the same to a new chain. I will start with new sprockets and chain then change the sprockets as soon as they show wear , that way the chain stays good longer and doesn't need to be replaced as often. Generally 2 sets of sprockets per chain. If the sprockets start to hook , the entire set gets tossed , I don't do broken chains .

Edited by jjktmrider

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Thanks for the info. The sprockets are not hooked and don't show much wear. The bike only has 1600 miles so I feel that the sprockets can't be to worn. I also don't want to ruin a new chain as that is the more expensive part.

The previous owner said the bike sat unridden for 3 yrs so no lube on the chain or movement to keep it loose. There are a couple links that are pretty stiff. They don't straighten right after going around the sprocket. I think this is the cause. I'll look into ordering new sprockets and chain.

To cut to length do I just grind the head off on the pin and press the link out? Do I need a chain break tool?

Thanks!

Nick

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With only 1600 miles plus no clip master link it should be the original DID (IIRC) and a decent quality set . It shouldn't be worn out then . If it were mine I would makes sure the tension is right and lube it with WD-40 mixed with a little motor oil (so it adds a little lube plus won't dry out the o-rings) and ride it for a bit constantly spraying it down, keeping speeds down some . Watch for any o-rings being ripped out from between the side plates. The absolute best thing would be to take the chain off the bike and put it in a kettle of heavy'ish oil and heat it up on a stove to 150-180F for an hour or 2 to loosen things up and get the oil to seep in everywhere. Without a masterlink the swingarm needs to be taken off the bike.

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I doubt the chain is the issue with only 1,600 mi and any o-ring I've ever owned was somewhat kinky. Try a little WD40 and see if that helps the noise. You might be needing new chain/sprockets, but this will help with the diagnosis. Chains can look pretty rusty on the outside and still function quite well. Pics would help, ya know?

Edited by shuswap1

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Thanks for the info. The sprockets are not hooked and don't show much wear. The bike only has 1600 miles so I feel that the sprockets can't be to worn. I also don't want to ruin a new chain as that is the more expensive part.

The previous owner said the bike sat unridden for 3 yrs so no lube on the chain or movement to keep it loose. There are a couple links that are pretty stiff. They don't straighten right after going around the sprocket. I think this is the cause. I'll look into ordering new sprockets and chain.

To cut to length do I just grind the head off on the pin and press the link out? Do I need a chain break tool?

Thanks!

Nick

 If you buy new sprockets and chain, before you start dismantling things, put your new sprockets up next to the ones that are on your bike, then you'll have a better idea if your bikes sprockets are worn. If yours are worn, it'll be pretty obvious

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Photos!

Did an experiment as well. It may have been ill advised but I took the counter sprocket cover off and rode it. At the same time though I taped off the 3x3 mod (as was suggest forever ago) rode up and down the driveway. I could pin it full open and no noise. I felt like the throttle was snappier as well. So I put the cover back on made sure my tape was stuck well and rode again. The noise is back again. Not quite as consist though. Only pops a couple times. Tomorrow I will take it in the road and see what happens. I may experiment with more tape on the 3x3 mod to see if it actually is a rapid fire back fire from being lean.

My jetting is 190 main and a 22.5 pilot. The air screw plug is still in so I don't know that setting. Let me know if you think I'm lean.

I'm really stumped on this. I don't really know what to call the sound. I just know if my helmet is off and it happens my left ear is ringing after only a couple pops.

I'll keep trying things. As mention earlier my Q4 slip on had no clamp. I took it apart put some high temp rtv on the connection. It really doesn't seem that tight though. I'll inspect tomorrow and see if the rtv has blown out around the connection to check for exhaust leaks.

Thanks again guys. The input us very appreciated. Keep it coming.

P.S. I checked my tension and it is about 1.625"

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Edited by katothepumpkin

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Kinda sounds like your cover is making the noise, I have a plated E and my covers vibration drove me nuts. I took it off and left it off, if you wear riding boots, having no cover is no big deal. Plus, it's easier to keep clean

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I haven't had my cover on for a couple months now . Tennis shoes with laces is what's a bad idea mostly.

 

There isn't anything chain related that would be loud enough to make ears ring . I've never even heard of anything really pop or crackle that loud on any bike. Disconnect the TPS once just for giggles.

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Not sure what a chain keeper is, on my E, the cover has 2 bolt-bushings and a metal bracket under it, the bolts, bushings and bracket all go back on, the plastic cover goes into storage. TPS=throttle position sensor, right? Don't know how that's gonna help

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That's what I meant. When I ran it with out the cover I ran it with out the bracket aswell. That's why I thought wasn't very smart as the chain could hit the case if it was bunching up. I feel like the TPS is a touchy subject after my search. Lots of differing opinions :p

Edited by katothepumpkin

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Progress!!!

I did a couple things.

1. Checked that the header pipe was tight. (It may have been a bit loose)

2. Unplugged the TPS

- I read on another thread that people felt it make the bike feel more on off with the throttle. I would agree. I feel like it is a bit jerky when going from closed to open throttle. I don't know this actually helped anything though.

3. I taped the air box to only the original hole from the snorkel.

- I don't feel that the person that did the 3x3 mod did it correctly. From some reading it kinda sounds like the 3x3 hole is the hole created from removing the snorkle. Is this correct? I have a hole cut as well as the hole from the snorkel.

After all of this I rode the bike. The noise was gone as far as I could tell. Which is awesome but I had not actually verified the problem. It was a nice day so I geared up to do some riding. Bike ran great and I went to cruise some gravel roads. I did some full throttle pulls in 4th and 5th to lug the bike a bit and the bike started popping again. But it also started surging. It was then that I realized I was probably running out of fuel. Switching to to reserve actually didn't help. I had to go to the pri setting to get home. I filled the bike at home and rode some woods trails with it on pri and no problems.

In conclusion I think that the petcock was not flowing well and the fuel in the bowl was low. Causing a lean condition.

I am still concerned about the jetting on the bike. I have read many of the threads on jetting here and it leads me to believe that my 190 main, 22.5 pilot, and stock needle is really wrong. The JD kit comes with 145-160 and a 25 pilot. I know it's been beaten to death but I may start a new thread regarding my oddball jetting. If you guys have any input on this let me know. I will try taking the tape back off and see if the popping comes back.

Thank you for all the help so far. Just having people to bounce ideas off of helps make these types of problems less depressing.

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Yes, take the tape back off to see if the popping comes back.

 

I don't believe that 190 main is right, should double check those numbers, 155 or 160 should work for you.

 

If your sure it's still got the stock needle (no extra grooves to adjust clip) it will be too lean. the JD kit comes with a richer needle (blue) thats supposed to work with the 3x3 mod, or if your cheap like me, you could turn the stock needle down .004" smaller and shim it up higher to richen the midrange. The 22.5 pilot still works for me, even at sea level and temp of 0 to10*c . But for some the 25 works well.

 

I would keep running it on pri. till you get the jetting sortted, then test it again on - on. You could unbolt it from your tank to visually check it.

Edited by bucket list

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Yes, take the tape back off to see if the popping comes back.

I don't believe that 190 main is right, should double check those numbers, 155 or 160 should work for you.

If your sure it's still got the stock needle (no extra grooves to adjust clip) it will be too lean. the JD kit comes with a richer needle (blue) thats supposed to work with the 3x3 mod, or if your cheap like me, you could turn the stock needle down .004" smaller and shim it up higher to richen the midrange. The 22.5 pilot still works for me, even at sea level and temp of 0 to10*c . But for some the 25 works well.

I would keep running it on pri. till you get the jetting sortted, then test it again on - on. You could unbolt it from your tank to visually check it.

Great info, thanks! I'll get back with results. Also the plug has not been removed for the fuel screw so it is still at stock setting. I will test the bike with out the tape and if the sound returns I will pull out the plug and try adjusting the fuel screw.

I'm really surprised that the bike runs with such rich main jetting but perhaps it is compensating for the lean pilot circuit?

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Is there any way of telling if it's a dj jet? It didn't have other markings, just the 190. Even though the pilot circuit is not the main fuel supply at this point in the throttle but doesn't it still add fuel to the mixture?

When I got home tonight there was a little puddle under the bike. It was gas. The petcock is leaking. Thankfully it was not filling the carb but leaking from the gaskets. I'm going to go ahead and order the manual valve from the TT store. I think that this is the issue, or atleast part of it. I will still do tests to see of the bike is lean. I'll report back this weekend.

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The kiehin  jets should have a star type trademark symbol on them , Mikuni should have something also just can't remember what it is . If there is nothing it probably is a DJ .

 

The pilot circuit would be adding very little to the mixture beyond 3/4 that it isn't considered . I have 22.5 pilot in mine I believe and it is fine till now its getting colder , 35-40 I need to run the choke much more but about what is normal. I raised the needle and richened the mixture screw now for winter riding. 

 

If you have a stock tank the Raptor petcock won't work with the stock S/SM carb , it's outlet comes out angled right into the carb, not enough room for the hose without kinking and an odd twist to get to the carb inlet. I found a bottom outlet version , but being long the hose needs a loop (and an inline filter )to make it to the carb without kinking.

 

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Edited by jjktmrider

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