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Need help diagnosing dual sport kit

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Hey TT, this is my first time posting so I apologize if this goes in the wrong section. I need some help diagnosing an issue with my dual sport kit. I just bought a 2002 wr250f off of craigslist. Its in good shape, only needed minor maintenance type things, and came with a street legal title and an old Electrex Dakar kit on it. ( I believe they stopped making it? Cant seem to find any information online about it...) The seller had told me the battery was bad so it wouldn't work, I took his word on it and bought a new battery with the bike. It wound up working after I re-soldered a very loose fuse holder to the pcb.

 

Now another problem has come up - Like I said, everything was working perfectly after the battery install, and then it sat for 2 days in my garage, untouched. Next time I rolled it out and turned the key, no lights came on. I tried the blinkers - nothing. Horn - nothing. I started it and the lights came on as expected (They can run on their own with the stator, no battery) and I tried the blinkers again. This time, they blinked very slowly, like they weren't getting enough juice. I figured that the battery's power somehow wasn't getting to the rest of the components, and the whole kit was trying to work on just the stator output. I tore the whole kit down again, checked connections and everything seemed fine. I hooked the kit up off of the bike and still the lights would not work on battery power. 

 

This is the bizzare part (at least with my limited electronic knowledge) - I tested the battery by hooking the light up directly to it - it worked. Then I tested the plug socket on the pcb where the light wires were plugged into. They are receiving just over 12 volts (same as the battery), so how is it possible that the light will work off the battery and not off of the same voltage coming from the socket? I figure it is an issue with the rectifier/regulator box, so I double checked by bypassing the pcb and hooking the light up to the positive battery terminal and the ground wire off the rectifier/regulator - still nothing. This has me convinced that I have a bad rectifier/regulator, but I am baffled as to how it could be bad if the correct voltage is getting through. Is it allowing proper voltage and not enough current? I will gladly buy a new unit if this is definitely the problem, but before I spend the 50 bucks, I'd like to have at least a good reason to believe that this is the issue (Which my knowledge can't provide). I'm really trying to avoid buying a whole new kit as well because I have all the hardware right here, It just needs to work! 

 

I really appreciate anyone who is willing to help me out. I'd love to get this thing on the road before it gets too much colder, and can get you pictures or any other information that might help. Thanks 

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Get a voltage tester and see if the battery is charging. Start the bike and connect it to the battery, you should see around 12.8V at idle and a little over 13 when above idle. Sounds like your battery went dead after it sat for a couple days. Might be another loose connection not letting it charge. Start with the simple stuff, make sure it's charging before worrying about the rest.  :thumbsup:

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I will definitely check to see if the battery is charging, but I also know it has enough power for the headlight right now. Works straight off the battery, but not through the rectifier and pcb.

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Ok I just checked to see if the battery is charging, it was staying at a constant 12.95 volts regardless of engine rpm. That didn't seem right to me so i took the battery out completely and tested the leads going to it, which were only getting 3-4 volts.  So there is power getting to the battery but not nearly enough to charge it.  Again I don't know a ton but it seems like this backs up my feeling that it is the rectifier/regulator. 

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If you think your battery is good, and it went dead after sitting 2 days, I'd say there's something not hooked up right with the DSkit causing the battery to drain. I have an 03 DRZ-E, and the shop that installed the Baja Designs DSkit had it wired incorrectly, causing the battery to go dead over night. I'm not good with electronics either, and after calling the BD tech-squad multiple times, I was finally able to fix it. Not being able to get any info about your kit is a bummer, I wish you luck. At least the bike is street titled, and you don't have to go through the bs of plating an off-road bike

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It wont read right (read low like you found out) without a battery in the system. 12.95 should be ok. Maybe a little low but should run everything.

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Dmouse, the battery didn't go dead, but the lights did stop working. I topped it off with a trickle charger just to be sure. This morning I tried testing the diodes in the rectifier circuit with a multimeter again. (I tested them initially but they looked good) This time one of the readings is 0 in both directions, so I ordered a replacement. We will see if that really is the problem...

I can't reasonably believe that something is hooked up wrong because the guy I bought the bike from had ridden it for years, about 500 of those miles were on the street. That and the fact that it did work initially after putting a new battery in.

Edited by taweisse

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Dmouse, the battery didn't go dead, but the lights did stop working. I topped it off with a trickle charger just to be sure. This morning I tried testing the diodes in the rectifier circuit with a multimeter again. (I tested them initially but they looked good) This time one of the readings is 0 in both directions, so I ordered a replacement. We will see if that really is the problem...

I can't reasonably believe that something is hooked up wrong because the guy I bought the bike from had ridden it for years, about 500 of those miles were on the street. That and the fact that it did work initially after putting a new battery in.

Like I said, good luck. Let us know if you get the problem rectified        Happy Thanksgiving

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I think your on the right path with the question "ate you getting enough voltage, but not enough current" it sounds like when you bypass certain components, the light works, which means yes, something is limiting the current, but allowing you to measure battery voltage. Try measuring voltage at the light socket with the light unplugged first then plug it in and measure voltage with the light plugged in. If the voltage drops significantly or goes away completely, then yes, you have a current limiting component in your circuit. Is the PCB sealed or can you access the components. It may be possible to isolate the bad diode and have radio shack dig you up a new one.

This is not as thought as it sounds.

Good luck

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