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Free Power Mod FAIL

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I recently did the FPM. I have an 03-E with the Baja Design dual kit, my kit involves using 2 keys to run the bike, the stock one and the kit key. For whatever reason, after performing mod I went to start the bike and the stock fuse blew, not the kit one. On the bright side, I've got a new nifty way to charge my battery without taking side plastic off, just the air filter cover

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Not sure how this is a FPM failure. Can you explain?

I'm not sure either, but it is. Bike was fine before doing mod, did mod, went to start bike and I got nothing, checked stock fuse at battery and it was blown, BD fuse was good, disconnected FPM, reconnected it back the way it was, put a new fuse in it and it fired right up. The BD kit I got is unique, according to the BD techies anyways, in that I have the 2 key set up. I guess a newer kit will have addressed it. Like I said before, I'm happy with the no tools required way I can charge my battery now

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An E model uses a 10 amp fuse.  The S/SM uses a 20 amp fuse.  If your dual sport kit is drawing all power thru the original 10 amp fuse, that may be the problem.  But I have to say, it is difficult to analyze problems without all the information.  There are a lot of dual sport kits and how yours interfaces with the original electrical system is unknown.  So far I do not see how Free Power is involved with overloading your fuse.  Following the scientific method - reinstall Free Power and see if the fuse problem returns.  My guess is you blew the fuse when you cut thru the red and black RR wires momentarily shorting the battery and blew the fuse.  Or there was power on the red wire and it touched some metal of the frame.  Disconnect the battery before you instal free power.

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how about a little more detail in your description of what was done, with pictures and everything?

the free power mod only deletes a bad connector , but you're hinting vaguely about some keys?

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The battery was disconnected during installation, maybe not when I cut the wires though. I'm using the bike on Friday, I'll hook the FPM up again before and see what happens, I'll keep you guys posted, Thankyou

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I chuckled when I read Throttle5s' response, turns out he was right! After charging battery, I hooked up FPM again, the fuse didn't blow this time and the bike fired right up. I took it to the powerlines 10 miles from my house, a short distance in, I came across a small fallen tree, shut the bike off, cleared the obstruction, hopped back on my bike, hit the starter button and got a very slow turn to my starter, not enough to restart the bike, DAMN IT! Thank Jesus/Ala/Budda,I was on top of a small hill, and was able to bump-start it. I don't know why this happened, but I'm done with the FPM. I still have the new easy way to charge my battery, so it's not a total loss

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Just a follow up, what normally takes 80 minutes, started charging my battery at 230pm yesterday, still wasn't charged at 630, un-plugged it for the night, started charging again this morning and it took an additional hour to fully charge. My Optimate battery optimizer desulfater-charger sais my battery is still good, I'm riding tomorrow with a couple of guys, so if it craps out on me, at least I'll have some assistance

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Just a follow up, what normally takes 80 minutes, started charging my battery at 230pm yesterday, still wasn't charged at 630, un-plugged it for the night, started charging again this morning and it took an additional hour to fully charge. My Optimate battery optimizer desulfater-charger sais my battery is still good, I'm riding tomorrow with a couple of guys, so if it craps out on me, at least I'll have some assistance

Soooooo maybe it's not the FPM after all?

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Soooooo maybe it's not the FPM after all?

It would be a hell of a coincidence that my fairly new [year and a half] battery decided to die right after being charged, and then hooking up FPM. It initially cranked right over, then after a 30 minute ride, was very low. Once I bump started it, I drove it right home and started charging, the motor ran perfect with no signs of an electrical issue. I was a little shocked the battery took a 5 hour charge to fill up, something wasn't right to make a battery go that dead in an hour and a half of just riding the bike
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It would be a hell of a coincidence that my fairly new [year and a half] battery decided to die right after being charged, and then hooking up FPM. It initially cranked right over, then after a 30 minute ride, was very low. Once I bump started it, I drove it right home and started charging, the motor ran perfect with no signs of an electrical issue. I was a little shocked the battery took a 5 hour charge to fill up, something wasn't right to make a battery go that dead in an hour and a half of just riding the bike

Coincidence and Murphy's Law go hand in hand in my life. For what it's worth, I deal with 12v batteries on a daily basis that are used simply as backup. They go bad in as little as a few months and can last as long as 10 years. (Even though code requires replacement within 3-5 years.)
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At this point I would certainly start doing some electrical system checks.

 

Simplest is to check voltage at the battery: You will need an electrical test meter that has a volt meter set to DC volts 20 volt range or something close to that.

Battery disconnected----

Battery connected, Key off--

Key on motor not running---

Motor running at moderate rev----

 

This will tell you if the electrical charging system is working at all.

 

Also why did you decide to do the Free Power Mod?  Just preventative maintenance or to resolve some problem

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I did it because it's an easy procedure and I guess I was board. I'm a real believer in "if it aint broke, don't fix it", I surprised myself by deciding to do it. I was having no problem prior to doing this mod. My battery is charged, FPM disconnected, hopefully when I use the bike tomorrow, all is back to normal. The only thing I can think of that I may have done wrong was the wire I used to go to the battery was regular solid copper household wire that is insulated, I think it's 14guage, but it might be 12, would that be a problem? I hope Blueheart is wrong about his premature battery death theory

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The household(rigid copper) wire won't cause an immediate problem with the charge current, but it will be prone to fracturing due to vibration. Noble is suggesting a start with the basics approach and I wholeheartedly agree, if you want to get this sorted out.

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I did it because it's an easy procedure and I guess I was board. I'm a real believer in "if it aint broke, don't fix it", I surprised myself by deciding to do it. I was having no problem prior to doing this mod. My battery is charged, FPM disconnected, hopefully when I use the bike tomorrow, all is back to normal. The only thing I can think of that I may have done wrong was the wire I used to go to the battery was regular solid copper household wire that is insulated, I think it's 14guage, but it might be 12, would that be a problem? I hope Blueheart is wrong about his premature battery death theory

My "theory" is work related only. I hope it doesn't pertain to your situation either. Solid strand isn't recommended for it's fracture rate. Although I'm using some 18-4 to light up some LEDs on my diesel w/o breaking for 3 years now.
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Gosh sold copper wire is just hard to deal with even 14 gage.  12 would be even stiffer.  No point in doing a mod if it is not done correctly.  No, the gage of the wire will not cause electrical problems as long as it is not too small.  Solid is just wrong in this application.

 

Assuming your charging system is working, the only way the battery could be failing to charge is if you have a poor connection in Free Power some place.  Maybe too many wires at the battery terminals.  Maybe one of the battery terminals is just loose. (bolt seems tight but not making good connection)  I have seen all kinds of weird things like the insulation not being stripped from a wire before the terminal is crimped on then wondering why there is no connection.  Maybe not you, I'm just saying weird things happen.

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I blew a stock 20amp fuse at the battery doing the FPM yesterday. Battery was unplugged during the operation so it blew when I turned the ignition, I assume. I did have three sets of circle connectors on each battery terminal (for USB, battery tender and FPM). I reconnected the USB to the orphaned wires created by FPM and replaced the fuse. Bike fired right up. The battery is 1 month old and now on the battery tender in standby mode (fully charged). I used 14 ga wires, soldered and shrink wrapped. I will ride tomorrow to test it out.

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