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Some questions about my first Eric Gorr YZ144

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It's a 2005 with 2006 suspension and the bike really looks like it was looked after and not abused. I think the previous owner was meticulous and did all his own work and looked after his stuff. I took thhe head off and it looks minty and so does the cyclinder walls aside from some vertical marks... the ones that can be seen but not felt. I can still see the hone marks. No one has been ever able to tell me what causes this and I beleive no one knows for 100% to be honest. Best explanation I ever got was aluminum particles caught by the ring and they get 'rubbed' onto the cyl wall. Seems legit as that's what it looks like to me but Ive seen them before in other two-strokes and they dont cause a problem.

 

I wanted to ask if there is anything about an Eric Gorr 144 that I should keep my eyes open for.

 

Also, there is 60hrs on a new crank... I think it was a hotrods crank. How many hours of use before I should consider replacing it?

 

The piston has 20 hrs on it... what's the rule of thumb on that?

 

I was wondering if it's a good idea to just replace the piston and ring to ensure I know the state of the motor... and maybe the crank bearings and seal?

 

Thank you..

 

 

Oh.. any tips on 2006 YZ125 suspension? I'm going to send it out to have it redone for my weight of 220lbs naked but was wondering if there is a consensus on how these things should be set up for plush ride etc

 

 

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I had an 08 yz144 with 170~ish hours on the crank before I sold it. That was OEM I can't speak for hot rods in the 144kit. Personally I always throw a new piston in when I get a "new to me" bike just to get that warm and fuzzy about the top end. 20 hours is getting close to replacing any way. (I think EG recomends 20-30) Here's a link to some good info on a past thread. Any reputable suspension tuner should be able to make your 144 smooth as butter!! I was around 220 when I had my 144 and it was the funnest bike I've ever ridden!!

 

Welcome to TT :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1137898-what-do-we-think-of-the-eric-gorr-yz-144-kit/

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you are a bit big for a 144,

 

Ive never had a 144 but just a tip or two, run a very good oil, amsoil dominator, castor 927, 32:1 or better. They rev so high and you are heavy. Ive melted crank stuffers on yz125s and 250s. heat will kill that motor very fast. As for the marks they are somewhat normal but more oil the better!

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I I'm going to send it out to have it redone for my weight of 220lbs naked

 

I would not ride naked ;)

 

As for the 144. I love mine. Been going strong for years. I would at least change the ring and instect the piston and rod while you're in there.

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I have a Eric gorr yz144 what setup do you have? Mine is the mid/top porting with the high compression head for race gas.

With my setup at 20 hrs the ring is pretty much worn out possibly piston. Highly recommend you get the ti nitrate coated ring it will last much longer than the standard ring will.

I have had mine since 06 mine is a 06 model year I got like 300 hrs on the oem crank running a hot rods now with like 40 hrs.

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Hi thanks for replies.

 

The pw told me it had the 'overall' port job. Now I'm wondering what compression it has... I'm hoping he went for pump gas because I'd be pretty annoyed if he sold me a bike that needed race gas and didnt tell me... not to mention if I put reg gas in there I would ruin the motor by pinging the shit out of it. I'm going to check squish and compression.. hopefully that will tell me what gas I can use.

 

I disagree that I am too big for the bike ;) I'm not going to be racing the bike, it is a weekend warrior track bike and I'm in my 40's so it wont be WFO for 20 minutes straight. I wanted the bike because it's light and fun. My 450F literally feels like a pig compared to this YZ. I'm actually going to drop to 200lbs over winter so that'll help a little. I took the bike for a ride at my buddy's farm just up and down a grassy/gravel road and it hauled my 220lbs back and forth quite well. With some proper dirt and traction I imagine this bike will pull pretty hard. The bike is pretty aggressive feeling to me..it's clearly a balls to the wall race bike. I remember my KX250 two-stroke being like that a number of years ago and I put a 9oz flywheel weight on it and it took that nasty edge off it. It barely made a difference at the track, the bike was still violent if i wanted it to be but the fww certainly helped settle it down enough that I could ride longer without having to fight it so much. Anyways...  all that to say I think something like a 6oz fww might find its way on this bike. Unless you want a stadium bike flywheel weights are one of the best things you can do to a two-stroke motocrosser if you ask me.

 

 

I think with 20 hrs already being on the current piston I will just be smart and order a new piston and ring... where do I order them from with the ti nitrate ring? And what kind of squish and compression should I be hoping to see?

 

Thanks :)

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The ti nitrate ring is from wiseco it's listed on their site. It's mostly likely that the owner went with the pump gas setup it's a more common choice.

Do not listen to the guys who say it's a big bore it needs learner jetting crap. They don't own the bike let alone have any experience with the gorr 144 setup on the 05 plus yz. Trust me the gorr kit needs richer main jets I'm running a 450 main. Stock needle 3rd clip I also had to go two sizes richer on the pilot over stock.

If you have the pump gas head setup it might be slightly leaner than my settings because I'm using the high compression head for race gas.

Oh yeah and if it hasn't been done yet replace the stock 13t sprocket for a 14t! The stock 13 tooth front is to short bike accelerates to quickly causing excessive wheel spin and you go through the 1st thru 3rd gears way to fast. The larger 14 corrects the gear ratios and hooks up better. Smooths and spreads out the power longer. The 144 does rev out better with a after market pipe don't buy the pro circuit though worst pipe for this bike it's all top end other pipes other the same thing but don't kill the bottom mid.

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I will put the 14 front on it for sure... it needs a new chain and sprockets anyways. The orig owner has taller gearing on it now but he said it was too tall. I think it's 14 front and a tooth or two smaller on the rear.

 

I think I'm going to remove the motor and go through it... i really doubt anything is wrong with it but I have to time so I might as well make sure.

 

In the spring I will send my suspension off to Factory Connection in Montreal and cross my fingers. Its hit or miss when sending suspension off I find.

 

Can't wat till next season... dying to know what this bike is like.

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I have two EG 144 kits (2006 yz) and the only jet change I needed was to reduce pilot two sizes. Main and needle were perfect. I have the low/mid and mo-betta. The best pipe seems to be the DEP from what I've read, but the OEM pipe is a very close second. The durability has been amazing.

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Isn't that part of the fun grabbing gears and revving the piss out of it.

 

 

Yes true... I just will have to get used to shifting so quickly. I dont remember my 250 two-stroke needing to be shifted like that. No biggy.. it'll just add to the expereince.

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I just read a post and a guy with a 125 says never let a FWW get anywhere near a 125. Of course it depends on the rider and what he likes but drawing from my expereince with FWW I am at the opposite end of the spectrum... I feel FWW's are the best kept secret for twitchy explosive two-strokes. I rode a KX250 for a couple years and it wore me out to ride that thing as fast as I could. At a friend's suggestion I order a 9oz FWW and could not beleive how much better that bike became. It was still explosive of course, it's only 9oz afterall, but it took that nasty edge off the bike and made it a better bike. I find sotries of pros back in the day that ran FWW's on their bikes on line as well so... they certainly do something even fast pros like.

 

I think my plan is ride the bike a few weeks as is.. get used to it then add the FWW and decide if I like it on a 125. I ran 9oz on the 250 and after thought I should have got the 11oz because I liked the effect so much. For the 125 I think I'll go with a 6oz. Just enough to get me some traction and stretch out the over-rev a little.

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Maybe for woods riding but I don't think it needs one it will possibly cause it to rev slower on the small bore. Yes the fly wheel was great on my 06 yz250 I have the gytr 9.5 ounce

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Its a personal choice.. just from the 20 mins I had on it I already kind of know I will want one. I'm not too worried about what 6oz's is going to do to it. I barely noticed the 9oz on the 250. The benefits far out weigh any negatives in my mind.

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