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Chain and sprocket advice

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Hi guys it's time for new chain and sprockets for my 02 125 but I am having trouble choosing.

 

My current rear is 51 or 52 toth.

Front I THINK is 13 tooth (sprocket has 1445-13 printed on it)

 

I am looking through ebay and trying to find chain + sprockets together but the the rear sprockets seem to have less teeth and the front seem to have more. Are my sprockets not stock or something?

 

Also has anyone used the choho chains/sprockets? I was looking at this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-KX125-L2-L4-2002-Choho-H-D-Gold-Chain-and-Sprocket-Kit-/131544045406?hash=item1ea0a2d75e:g:HMQAAOSwLVZVqwn4

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The problem with most of the chain/sprocket combos is that they're cheaply made garbage.  The one you linked specifically appears to be no exception.

 

Order up some sunstar steel sprockets and a brand name o-ring chain unless you're planning on selling the bike.  These components purchased individually are usually available quite inexpensively.  Buy more chain than you need and cut it to length.

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It seems sunstar isn't very popular here in the UK, are they branded something else here?

 

Does a 13t front sprocket sound reasonable?

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It seems sunstar isn't very popular here in the UK, are they branded something else here?

 

Does a 13t front sprocket sound reasonable?

 

13T in front sounds right.  Should be 13/51 or something like that.

 

Sunstar is a Japanese brand that makes low cost but fairly high quality steel sprockets.  I don't know if they're available over there or what.  In any case, look for a Renthal, DID or other quality chain and some steel sprockets.  If you're going to get anything thats made in China, sprockets might be alright.  Don't go cheap on the chain though. 

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13T in front sounds right.  Should be 13/51 or something like that.

 

Sunstar is a Japanese brand that makes low cost but fairly high quality steel sprockets.  I don't know if they're available over there or what.  In any case, look for a Renthal, DID or other quality chain and some steel sprockets.  If you're going to get anything thats made in China, sprockets might be alright.  Don't go cheap on the chain though. 

 

It seems O-RING chains sold separately are around the £50 mark which seems like a lot, are normal chains ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DID-520-CHAIN-Black-Gold-120-Link-Motocross-Kawasaki-KX125-KX250-KXF250-KXF450-/171900441683?hash=item2806109453:g:vAIAAOSwstxVXfFh#shpCntId) not recommended?

 

Also while I have your attention I don't ride MX tracks I prefer enduro style riding, hill climbs ect so would changing the teeth for more acceleration help me at all?

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Oring chains last way longer than standard chains.  I don't know how much longer since its been so long since I ran a non oring chain but if I was going to guess I'd say you would go though five sets of non oring chains and sprockets before the oring chain wore out.  They last a very long time.  If mine haven't stretched and the sprockets are worn I replace the sprockets and not the chain.  When a chain wears out it burns up the sprockets too, so if you run a standard chain you are going to get less out of your sprockets too.

 

Oring chains are very low maintenance.  They require much less lube less frequently and they are sealed so grit cannot get inside the chain.  You don't have to worry about cleaning and preventing rust.

 

Its like the fancy double iridium spark plugs most cars have these days.  People complain about the cost but they only have to change them every 100k miles.  They don't realize its cheaper than doing the every 20k miles with ordinary copper plugs.

 

Regearing either shortens the gears up for quicker acceleration but a lower top speed or stretches them out for the opposite effect.  Its most useful for dialing in a bike for a particular application.  If you wanted more top speed you could do that but you will find the bike has a harder time pulling through things in the same gear and may require more clutch usage to keep the revs up.  If you never use the top two gears then it would make sense to gear it shorter and tighten up the ratios and also put more power to the ground.  Stock is usually pretty close but if you want to mess with it now is the time.

 

I use the DID 520V. Thats the cheapest oring chain and it is very high quality.  Regardless of which non-oring chain you get they will all have the same problem with rapid wear.  They work okay for street bikes but on the dirt I can only recommend orings.  I switched years ago and cannot imagine why they even put the regular chains on these bikes.

Edited by turbo dan

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Oring chains last way longer than standard chains.  I don't know how much longer since its been so long since I ran a non oring chain but if I was going to guess I'd say you would go though five sets of non oring chains and sprockets before the oring chain wore out.  They last a very long time.  If mine haven't stretched and the sprockets are worn I replace the sprockets and not the chain.  When a chain wears out it burns up the sprockets too, so if you run a standard chain you are going to get less out of your sprockets too.

 

Oring chains are very low maintenance.  They require much less lube less frequently and they are sealed so grit cannot get inside the chain.  You don't have to worry about cleaning and preventing rust.

 

Its like the fancy double iridium spark plugs most cars have these days.  People complain about the cost but they only have to change them every 100k miles.  They don't realize its cheaper than doing the every 20k miles with ordinary copper plugs.

 

Regearing either shortens the gears up for quicker acceleration but a lower top speed or stretches them out for the opposite effect.  Its most useful for dialing in a bike for a particular application.  If you wanted more top speed you could do that but you will find the bike has a harder time pulling through things in the same gear and may require more clutch usage to keep the revs up.  If you never use the top two gears then it would make sense to gear it shorter and tighten up the ratios and also put more power to the ground.  Stock is usually pretty close but if you want to mess with it now is the time.

 

I use the DID 520V. Thats the cheapest oring chain and it is very high quality.  Regardless of which non-oring chain you get they will all have the same problem with rapid wear.  They work okay for street bikes but on the dirt I can only recommend orings.  I switched years ago and cannot imagine why they even put the regular chains on these bikes.

 

You have been very helpful thanks.

 

Before I order what do you think about the below:

Chain - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131552410389

Rear sprocket: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/kawasaki/kx_125_l4/02/picture/sprocket_rear_plus_3_teeth_-_jt_check_chain_length/(Stock rear sprocket is 49T so +3 brings it to 52T.)

Front sprocket: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/kawasaki/kx_125_l4/02/picture/sprocket_front_plus_1_tooth_-_jt_check_chain_length/(Stock front sprocket is 12T so +1 brings it to 13T)

 

How does this look? 

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That looks good.  JT is good Japanese made stuff.

Edited by turbo dan

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