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Nearly drowned my drz in a mud crossing thing

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Story time:

 

I Saw a large 'puddle' so I thought to myself that it would be great fun to blast through.

So I go into it and almost neck myself as the 'puddle' was more than a meter deep...

At this point I'm thinking to myself how the actual &%$#@! is this puddle 1m deep...

The water/mud was just below my seat but pretty sure airbox was officially contaminated.

Turn the bike off instantly as well as the ignition.

Took about 10 minutes of sheer panic to get it out because I knew if the water went into my exhaust i was fooked lol

Managed to get the bike out.

Violently shook the bike to get the water/mud off.

Looks good.

Opened my airbox to find it about 1/4 full of water/mud.

Took off the butt plug on the bottom of the airbox and drained it all out.

Bike wouldnt start for about 5 mins.

Bikes starts and the victory yelp comes out "THANK &%$#@!".

 

      The End.

 

So today in the 36* heat I decided it would be nice to drain the oil and strip the bike of its tank, seat and radiator plastics so I could prepare the bike to be taken apart as I'm going to be replacing the cam chain and I will be doing a loctite fix on whatever needs to be done as well as checking the valve clearances.

 

 

So when I drained the oil it was a dark milky colour and looked disgusting. I read some threads about people still having milky oil after a full change of oil so does this mean I have to change the oil about 3-4 times before all of the water is out? Does it really matter if the oil has a tiny bit of water in it? it felt pretty normal to me when I got it all over my socket and hands...

 

 

Cheers - Chris

Edited by seeeems_legit

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You may have to.

And i wouldn't leave any moisture in there.

After a couple of quick oil changes, getting the bike real good and hot between, you could pull off the valve cover and see if your still getting moisture condensing inside that cover, if not your good to go.

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You may have to.

And i wouldn't leave any moisture in there.

After a couple of quick oil changes, getting the bike real good and hot between, you could pull off the valve cover and see if your still getting moisture condensing inside that cover, if not your good to go.

It has no oil in it right now but I'm buying some oil tomorrow. What oil should I use just to drain out the water?

 

I want to put SILKOLENE PRO-4 10W-40 oil into it but it is too expensive to waste imo :(. ($65 for 4L)

 

Can I put some cheap Castrol 15w-50 into it? ($35 for 4L) or will it damage my engine in any possible way?

Edited by seeeems_legit

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Buy the cheap stuff. Run it. Then change it again if you think there's still water in it.

How did your oil system get water in? Check the black box for leaks.

If you ever think your engine has sucked water in, pull the sparkplug(s) and spin the engine over a bunch to shoot the water out. This goes for all engines and water.

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you shouldnt have stopped in the middle of it unless it was hopeless, thats a sure way to let water in ....

It was hope less haha I'm 6ft1 and the water was up to my waist on the sides lol

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It has no oil in it right now but I'm buying some oil tomorrow. What oil should I use just to drain out the water?

 

I want to put SILKOLENE PRO-4 10W-40 oil into it but it is too expensive to waste imo :(. ($65 for 4L)

 

Can I put some cheap Castrol 15w-50 into it? ($35 for 4L) or will it damage my engine in any possible way?

 

 

the drz engine doesn't care if it's $150 a liter or $1.99 a liter. just make sure it's 10-40  or 20-50, and does not say "friction modifiers" or "energy conserving" on the bottle. 

 

silkolene pro-8000, baby seal oil, or the stuff at walmart won't make a gnats hair's difference. 

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I've submarined my DRZ twice the puddle didn't look THAT deep !!!

 

On both occasions the bike was totally submerged - only mirrors sticking out.

Turned the ignition off immediately. Could not get the bike restarted (and I'm glad I did not).

 

Got towed out of the woods and took the bike home. Cleaned it up (including carb) and changed

the oil 6 times before it came out clear. Looking at what came out of the sump, I'm glad the bike

would not start - otherwise I would have had sand/grit circulating through the engine/gearbox.

 

12,000 miles later, the bike stills runs like it should

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I've submarined my DRZ twice the puddle didn't look THAT deep !!!

 

On both occasions the bike was totally submerged - only mirrors sticking out.

Turned the ignition off immediately. Could not get the bike restarted (and I'm glad I did not).

 

Got towed out of the woods and took the bike home. Cleaned it up (including carb) and changed

the oil 6 times before it came out clear. Looking at what came out of the sump, I'm glad the bike

would not start - otherwise I would have had sand/grit circulating through the engine/gearbox.

 

12,000 miles later, the bike stills runs like it should

oh ohhh I was riding for a full day after i nearly submarined mine lol

 

And when you did the oil changes did you turn on the bike and let the new oil circulate?

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the drz engine doesn't care if it's $150 a liter or $1.99 a liter. just make sure it's 10-40 or 20-50, and does not say "friction modifiers" or "energy conserving" on the bottle.

silkolene pro-8000, baby seal oil, or the stuff at walmart won't make a gnats hair's difference.

False it's been proven that fresh Extra Virgin Olive Oil provides the best life and HP gain, +13BHP, over all other oils! If you run EVOO and do the "My other car has a turbo" sticker mod it's proven to turn your stock DRZ into a Aprilia Sxv eating machine!
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And when you did the oil changes did you turn on the bike and let the new oil circulate?

 

The first oil change, I just filled up and let it drain out carrying as much of the mud/sand/grit

as possible (I could see sand in the drain pan - so I know there was some inside the engine)

The second oil change, I disconnected the coil and ran the engine in the starter for 2 or 3 30

second burst -  the oil was still a bit milky.

The third oil change - I ran the engine for about 1 minute - oil did not look super clean but a lot

better.

The fourth/fifth oil changes  - I let the engine run until the rad fan came on and then drained the oil

The sixth oil - change came after a 30 minute ride.

 

I also did 2 filter changes;

I have since ridden about 1500 miles with no ill effects; I do change the oil every ~750 miles anyway

and so far the drained oil shows no signs of grit/sand. I figure a couple of gallons of oil is better than 

a rebuild..

 

Gerry

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Oh and BTW - you may want to remove the top cover of the carb. I found some sediment

in mine which caused the bike to misbehave a couple of times.

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And when you did the oil changes did you turn on the bike and let the new oil circulate?

The first oil change, I just filled up and let it drain out carrying as much of the mud/sand/grit

as possible (I could see sand in the drain pan - so I know there was some inside the engine)

The second oil change, I disconnected the coil and ran the engine in the starter for 2 or 3 30

second burst - the oil was still a bit milky.

The third oil change - I ran the engine for about 1 minute - oil did not look super clean but a lot

better.

The fourth/fifth oil changes - I let the engine run until the rad fan came on and then drained the oil

The sixth oil - change came after a 30 minute ride.

I also did 2 filter changes;

I have since ridden about 1500 miles with no ill effects; I do change the oil every ~750 miles anyway

and so far the drained oil shows no signs of grit/sand. I figure a couple of gallons of oil is better than

a rebuild..

Gerry

Thank you for all of the help and yes when I drained the oil that was already in the bike I couldn't see any sand luckily and it wasn't extremely milky just a bit.

I've just done another oil change and i just let the bike idle for about 4-5 mins until the bike was nice and hot. its looking better so hopefully it should be fine in the next 2 oil changes. Thanks greg!

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