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cr250 woods weapon setup

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Hey guys hoping to dig a little info out of you.

And yes i know how a forum search button works so I did a little looking around..

Rundown

I'm 5'8 195lbs, been riding 20 years (since I was 4). I ride woods and OLD washed out (think mild creekbed) logging roads, all around the mountains here in SW WA. I also race enduro's usually b class/amateur, best for me was 6th in the 200cc c class at the inyan kara national enduro in WY I made it to a few years while I was on vacation (kid that got 5th was a local who went on to win @ Loretta lynns)

I ride a 99 cr125r, basically stock, 51t rear, fmf fatty and pc spark arrestor. its a great and rock solid bike, never been into the engine in the 7 years i have had it, replaced the clutch once, needs one again now. Engine is tired but it has lasted years on frequent oil changes and air filter cleanings and still goes just fine.

It's fun but far from ideal in single track and over rocks and roots, it doesnt have the torque I need to hop the wheel up on things.

I was/am thinking about a 250x but that is 23lbs heavier before armor, and requires more maintenance, valve adjustments etc...

I have been able to find several 01-03 cr250r's for 600+ cheaper (1750-2000) than the cheapest 250x available (2400-3000) and some with very recent rebuilds.

I know the stock springs are hard but im heavy so I may balance that out I will check and see what spring rates are recommended, and revalve

What mods are you woods/enduro guys running on the 01+ bikes?

Flywheel weight? How heavy and made by who? I definitely want to get one to deaden the sudden hit on the 2smoke engine.

Skid plate, I like the design of the devol plate, anyone have one?

Bark busters, still reading into which ones are most durable

Gearing, +2 teeth in the rear work well? Or would -1 front work better?

Tubliss, front and rear or just rear?

18" rear wheel

Are any of the available carburetors better than the others for throttle response/bottom and grunt?

Eventually fmf gnarly pipe & turbinecore s/a

I plan to be spending more time in the more extreme terrain with this next bike... i found a great spot way out in the mountains miles from pretty much anything I am going to set up a endurox playground with logs, rocks, a nice rocky creekbed and a camp spot so I can take weekend camping trips and learn to do the real precise stuff. Like a log matrix and rock gardens, log pivots, obstables with little to no run up, etc etc. I need a bike that wont fight me the whole time. I think a 250 2stroke would give me the torque i need and the weight saving would help keep me going in the long enduros

Edited by jblob
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05-07 with .030" off

Bark busters

Skid plate

Suspension setup for you

Have fun

Edited by AXAxiom

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97-07, 250-2-t of course, 10 oz. fyl weight, busters, hard compound shoes, soft slow suspension (to your weight)- 13-52, gearing, rock proof gear, cause rocks hurt when u crash in them

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05-07 with .030" off would require stock gearing due to spooling up too fast with the added torque, 13/50 was too low for mine after the mod and I couldn't hardly shift fast enough. 

.030" off can be done for less cost than a good sprocket

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I can't comment on a model year for you.  I have a 98 and have learned that the 1st gen aluminum frame cr's (97-99) are not highly sought after to be made into woods bikes.  Most of the complaints are stiff suspension and engine vib through the bars.  Yeah it kinda beats you up on the trail but that's half the fun of it for me...can you take it or not. Its the only bike I've owned so its all I know.  Other than the simple stuff (gearing, fww, hand guards, tires for the terrain you ride in) there's not much you can do to make an mx bike more forgiving on the trails until you dive into the suspension.  Getting it sprung for your riding weight and setting your sag is a must.  I've done a ton of reading on this and learn something new everyday.  Do you want a woods bike or a woods weapon?  If you want a true woods weapon then you'll be down in the basement with your forks torn apart changing the shim stacks.

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05-07 is probably out of my price range for the bike itself. i was looking at 01-03 mostly 02-03.

I ride a 99 cr125 and it seems to do okay as far as chassis goes, I dont notice crazy vibration but I would be used to it by now. when i get the 250 i can see if it feels different.

And woods weapon > woods bike. I plan to respring for my weight and spend a while getting my stacks layed out right I have been doing a lot of reading on how to do that since deciding on getting a new bike. There are so many small or cheap tweaks to make to a bike like the stack changes and playing with jetting and tire pressures, gearing etc that add up to a lot, before hundreds or thousands are thrown into exhaust, big bore, rekluse and porting. That said I don't expect it to be dialed like a pro level endurox bike, I'm not that rich or that talented, I have made a stock suspension and engine cr125 haul balls in the woods and thru various local enduros and the inyan kara national enduro, is it perfect? no, but it does the job OK for being way out of its element.

On flywheel weight mxsteve you said 10oz, how does that work for you?

I found 8, 10, 12 and a 14 available. One of my biggest problems on my bike is its a 125 2t so it is snappy and out here with all the mud and roots and loose rocks + hills + snappy = stuck. i want the 250 to have the bottom end like a 4 stroke, my friend has a wr250 that has great bottom end tq that made slippery hills so easy, I would think a 250 2t would have more bottom end, my brother just picked up a late 90s yz250 I will take for a ride soon to compare

Also wondering on tires. I usually run medium/soft terrain mx tires but I noticed kenda just made a mx/trials mix tire I may want to try.

http://www.chaparral-racing.com/product/kenda-k787-equilibrium-trials-rear-tire/328-7850.aspx?gdftrk=gdfV24902_a_7c27_a_7c165_a_7c328_d_7852&jt=1&jap=1o1&js=1&jsid=36240&jcpid=8a8ae4cd474c1cca01474dc3a608277e&jkId=gcp:se_36240:pp_24057769080:ag_1827730800:cp_59960280:n_g:d_m:cr_6540341880&gclid=CMLinOS268kCFQdqfgodgLsGnw

Edited by jblob

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Axaxiom any idea what the .030 decking would bring compression up to? I could do that myself on my cousins mill. Winding out super fast would be a huge pain in technical terrain tho.

Considering Eric Gorr porting after I get the rest dialed in

Edited by jblob

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I hear ya on the reading upon shim stacks...its addicting!  Out of its element is a good way to put it.  Mine doesn't do to shabby either but I know it could be better.  With all the reading on shim stacks ive done I can only come to one conclusion...on an mx bike no one would change the stack for off-road if it was that good to begin with.  You sound like your a pretty good rider and it might help you get to the next level and shave a few mins off your lap times.  Best part is you can do it yourself and save a few bucks.  Getting a 250 will give you the power your looking for.  A 12oz fww turned my bike into tractor.

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Yeah hopefully I can make the shims work better than my untouched 125 setup does. Going slow it deflects off of all sharp edged rocks, best remedy for that i have found is speed.

I'm close to 200lbs without gear so stock 125 springs probably suit me better in the woods than a 150-170lb rider but they still aren't ideal.

The 250 is going to be a big step away from my previous bikes, they have all been set up with the mentality of, "does it work, okay leave it alone until it doesn't work anymore"

I want to really dig into the setup on my next bike, if I can wrestle my 125 around the rough stuff as it sits, I think i can really blast through it on a well set up 250. Or so I hope

I have a long time friend who rode an old school twin rear shock bike for years in the woods, then he finally stepped up to a modern 85 and flew, by the time he was done with his 125 in mx he had a sponsor to buy him a brand new 250f. I think riding something in a way it wasn't meant to and making it work sets you up to take advantage of a dialed in bike when you make the step up. You don't get to develop lazy habits on the trail it's all work. Or so i hope anyway.. I know the last enduro I rode was frozen ground and my bike about killed me. Took my buddy's wr250f for the end of day race and was considerably faster everywhere and had the torque to put the wheel where I wanted it and pull harder out of corners.

14oz vs 12oz vs 10oz is where I am at on fww. I feel like heavy is where I need to be, twitchy and snappy in big rocks sucks, smooth with good torque rules... but I don't want to go so overboard that the bike is a slug. Right now my kryptonite is a long steep hill with a slick surface or loose rocks... or about 20% of my riding.. I have to keep full momentum to make it up, I can stop and start but itnusuay requiresn rolling down the hill to find a flatter spot to start from or a lot of clutch feathering and occasional stalls, on identical terrain on the wr250 I rolled from a stop absolutely no problem had all the torque needed to roll on up without spinning. That is what I need

How are the brakes? Worth getting more aggressive pads? I don't this oversize rotors would be on my list but the right pads will help in sure.

I have been watching the crosstraining videos on YouTube with the snarky British narrator, definitely want to try some of the log jumping techniques, seems like good brakes would be good for the really technical stuff

Also anyone using the devol radiator guards? They look good but I'm not sure of strength vs big rocks...

Edited by jblob

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Hahahaha ive been watchin that british guy to.  His 2 stroke vs 4 stroke vid is pretty funny.  I agree that dealing with what you have will make you a better rider.  If you can keep the pace up now you should really be able to fly when you get it all set up.  How much less could your 125 weigh than a 250?   I thought your 99 125 had the same frame, wheels, plastics, etc as my 98 250.    Someone correct me cause im prob wrong.  I think the flywheel weight choice will have to come after you settle on which year bike you get.  Some guys say it kills the power and other guys not.   This seems to come down to what size weight is put on which engine.  The 98 is more of a top end engine with a very snappy powerband so a 12oz works great for me on this bike and I don't notice any power loss.  I can ride up to a tree, do a tight 180 around it, and not have to clutch it...awesome!

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Haha I just saw that one today, was cracking up the whole time.

Been reading all day and it looks like 02-04 would be my range.

I think my 125 is basically the same as your 250, different motor mount locations but same basic chassis. Weight difference between them is probably within 5lbs, engine isn't much bigger physically, bigger pipe..

My buddys wr250f (steel frame) is something like 260lbs, the cr250 02 is 213 dry, 12lbs of gas, a couple lbs of oil, so 220something wet. My bike is plenty light im heavy enough to throw my weight around on it, the wr didn't feel as heavy as it was until I had spent a few minutes kicking it on slick mud.. needs work on the head and valves bad.. another advantage of 2 strokes...

I don't think there is any big price difference between the weights. I could get a 12 or 14 and remove a little material on the drill press at a time if it deadens it too much.

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Lmao "4 stroke riders are often accused of being gay, and this is true, only 3.5% of 2 stroke riders are gay where as 3.8% of 4 stroke riders are gay" like really? Which dark hole was that statistic pulled out of XD

Those videos are great tho I have watched of them now and will continue to watch them and the videos on layouts for practice tracks and other techniques. The internet is such a great resource it's wild how many things you can learn.

Screenshot_2015-12-20-17-56-35.png

Screenshot_2015-12-20-17-56-53.png

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Yeah those vids are great.  02-04 would be great.  01 regarded as best year but they are hard to find.  Heck just make sure it's RED and you can't go wrong!  If you ever do need to lighten up a fww I would take it to a machine shop and have them turn it down.  Need to keep that balanced or you'll put some unwanted vibes into your crank.

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Forgot you asked about tires.  I tried an IRC M5B back tire and love it.  Its a soft terrain tire and grips really well.  Ran 2 scrambles with it and after 100 miles of racing the leading edge of the knobs are just starting to wear.  No knobs ripped off.  Its awesome in the mud. 

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Just looked at racetech's site and I would actually need stiffer than stock springs

02 cr250r, b class enduro/trail, 195lbs.

Fork Stock .43

Recommended .442

Shock Stock 4.9

Recommended 5.444

Man do i feel fat XD

Tires are one of those things that are hard to judge...

Anyone from the pnw, specifically west of the mountains you know what I mean. weather changes hourly on an average day. Literally had Sun rain and snow the same hour last year... was so confused. it makes tire choice difficult, anything from hard pack dirt and clay, to mud and rocks, and loose medium sized rocks and gravel, occasional plate rock hillsides, roots..then add wet, dry, hot, cold etc... usually I do okay but I definity hit the limit of grip often.. my current tires are unbelievable when it's dry or close to it I can carry a ton of speed... when it gets slick out they don't hold any grip and I hang the back end out a lot. my last back tire wes great in mud and loose stuff but slid around on the dry hard stuff. Gotta find a good all around tire. That mx/trials mix one is my next test item it looks promising.

I have a pretty good list of parts that seem to be the typical enduro setup so once I find my next bike I can get to work on what needs attention first, suspension. Maybe I will get lucky and get one with some of the essentials like bark busters and gearing already done

Edited by jblob

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Prob one of the best post so far on woods setup for the cr's! I'm in the exact same boat as you and basically it comes down to doing your research (which you are doing very well). After that it's buying parts and tweaking here and there. I can tell you this though. I picked up an 03 that was a straight mx bike. Bike looked good and I checked it out as best as I possibly could but still found hidden issues. As of now parts I've picked up to help with traction and hopefully tame the insane mid range of this bike. As of right now the cylinder is at millennium getting freshened up so none of these parts have been tested yet.

G2 throttle tamer

V-force 3 reeds/block

13oz stealthy flywheel weight

I have also installed a devol rear rotor guard and skid plate. I put a set of flex bars on as well that I had laying around and that helped a lot with the vibration I was feeling. Suspension sucked for me so it will be sent out shortly. Now for tires I'm leaning towards a rear tubliss with a maxis dessert EN front and rear. That's about the best tire I can find so far. I have been seeing great things about the golden tyre but it's so soft it doesn't hold up worth crap.

Once all that's done then I guess il focus on jetting. From what I can find the stock tmx carbs suck and we'll be better off buying a carb off a yz250 or drop 260 on a new airstriker from jd jetting. Not 100% sure what route I'm taking there haven't looked into it enough to determine. Anyways that's my plans and its progressing a little at a time.

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I am hoping to find one that has already been set up with woods in mind. Tons of woods bikes up here on craigslist, couple were dead on what I want but waiting on $$$ to come in.

What's the deal with the throttle tamer? Slower opening?

Let me know how you like the 13oz weight. I definitely want a strong bottom-mid. Not a totally weak top end but it wont live wide open so a bit of a loss is acceptable after the list of mods

Hopefully by the time the trails open back up again in spring I will have the bike bought, torn down and put back together for a season of ripping it up.

There will definitely be weekends of camping and riding and hours of getting the setup dialed just right once I get some endurox obstacles setup in my new spot, can't haul tires into the forest but there is a good supply of rocks and logs to move around. Just hoping it is far enough out that it won't be found and ruined quickly

Tires are one of those things no matter what it is there will be a downside. I will end up trying one at a time until I find the best compromise. Must be so easy to dial a bike in the desert... what is it gonna be like today? Hot and dry like yesterday? great!

Next on my list is reading up a bunch on porting the cr for bottom end. And just General cleaning up of bad casting. I ported the vortec heads on the 4.3 in my LUV but that was really simple, not sure how working the ports on a 2 stroke compares yet

Edited by jblob

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Flywheel weight? no don't need one.

Skid plate, yes doesn't matter just get one.

Bark busters, yes, i like Cycras, but doesn't matter just get a set.

Gearing, i liked running 13/50 on my 02.

Tubliss, front and rear or just rear?  Tubliss is great i feel like i'm cheating with them.  front and rear.

18" rear wheel  not necessary.

Are any of the available carburetors better than the others for throttle response/bottom and grunt?

i always run stock carbs.  just need to tune it.

Eventually fmf gnarly pipe & turbinecore s/a 

i hate the gnarly pipes.  they cut the bikes balls off.  SST all the way.  will make that cr scream and plenty of low end too.  turbine core yes.

 

 

Also most important.  get the suspension revalved.  and sprung for your weight.  i would do this before anything else.  i believe it is the single best most important improvement you can do to any bike you plan to go fast on. 

Edited by hawaii500_1999
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What is your reasoning behind the no fww? Everyone seems to agree they takendown the hit that breaks traction

And why the sst? Sst was designed for wide open mx and gnarly was designed for woods/enduro. If i have less top end that is fine I don't do mx much anymore.

And yep respring and shim stack changes are first on the list. All the tq in the world won't make me fast if I can't keep the wheel planted

Edited by jblob

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