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Devol lowering link on 15 wr250f


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Kickstand. The bike will not lean over to the side as much. Not that it is much of a drawback but I bought a 2008 used WR that had a Devol installed on it and bike almost stood straight up like it could fall to the other side if bumped into. Never rode with it. I replaced with a new OEM one and sold the link here on TT. 

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The new wr's and yzfx models are jacked up in the back (and rear shock travel shortened) to make clearance for the battery. The chassis was originally designed to sit more level like the yz250f. I would think that lowering the back a little shouldn't hurt the cornering. I wonder how much shorter a 100/100-18 tire would be.

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I have my bike lowered 1.5" internally. 2015 wr250f no problems with the kickstand. Also the travel on forks is the same on forks as the yz250f 12.2". The travel on the the shock is 12.4 on yz and 12.5 on the wr. 

Edited by meyer1son
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have my bike lowered 1.5" internally. 2015 wr250f no problems with the kickstand. Also the travel on forks is the same on forks as the yz250f 12.2". The travel on the the shock is 12.4 on yz and 12.5 on the wr.

I heard the YZ shock eye to eye is 1" shorter. I prefer a shorter seat height and looking for fixes if I buy a WR for next year. Although exspensive this can level/lower the seat.

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  • 2 weeks later...

heres what i experienced when it comes to messing with factory ergonomics on any 2 wheeled vehicle be it a bicycle or motor bike.....i bought one of those fat tired bicycles recently and it felt like the front end flopped when i turned and being a short guy i was stretched too far to reach the handlebars ....so first thing i did was put a smaller fork stem on it to bring the handlebars closer.....didnt fix the flop, so i adjusted the seat further back, you can do that with bicycle seats, and thinking ill be uncomfortable and stretched out again it took me a few rides to actually do it.....so i move the seat back and the bike stopped flopping when i turn and it feels good now when i pedal....so my point is......i dont have a point, mess with and try different things to make your bike feel better and you'll probably be surprised what really works for you.....factories make their stuff work for the masses and im not one to go to mass....but i love Jesus !!

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  • 2 months later...

The Yamalink just arrived, guys there suggested that my weight at 220 was excessive for the stock shock spring, and the link would makes things worse, so I should consider going with a heavier spring.  My goal is to lower the bike,  without impacting the travel.  Like the way it rides now,  but have a real issue dabbing a foot here and there.  Very easy to high center when coming to a stop, say turning around on a 2trk, or something of that nature. I'd like to quit tipping over.  Looked into various spring options,  but there is some talk that the WR and FX shocks are actually an inch longer, to allow for battery protrusion into fender well?   So not sure an OEM from a YZ would fit properly. 

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The YZ250FX and WR250F shock is 6mm longer measured eye to eye, than a YZF, not an inch longer.  The leverage ratio of the linkage translates this longer shock length to an additional 12mm rear axle drop out than a YZ250F. 

 

Your better solution, IMO, is to have the suspension travel shortened on both front and back.

 

And absolutely, yes, the 15+ WR & FX are tall bikes, especially compared to the older WRs.

Edited by BazookaJoe
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I thought of another idea to lower the rear of the bike- Switch the size of the rear tire.   I see that Dunlop makes the AT81 as a 110/100x18 which is the stock size of the FX & WR rear tires.  Also, Dunlop sells this tire as a 110/90x18 as well.  Important to know, is that the 110/90 is 1.2" smaller outside diameter, which would drop the rear axle height by .60" (or 15mm).  

 

Think of it like this-  Compared to a 14+ YZF, the WR & FX have these parts in common: Linkage, frame geometry, and swingarm.  The main differences are shock extended length (FX/WR 6mm longer) and larger diameter rear tire.  Both of these changes together result in a net increase of about 27mm higher rear fender height (compared to a YZF) when the rear suspension is fully extended. This is all good for quicker steering, but in certain conditions such as sandy downhills, IMO, it's waaay too much quicker steering. 

 

For you guys wanting a lower seat height, this tire change would drop the rear of the bike by 15mm while retaining the full suspension travel.

    

So, to wrap this up, I think I'm going to give the 110/90 tires a try- Not so much for the lower seat height, but rather to kick out the fork angle a little.  AND, the 110/90 costs $11 less, too. 

 

Hope this helps.

Edited by BazookaJoe
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  • 2 years later...

I'm 6'1, running a 140/80/18 on my WR250F '16 and struggle in the rocky sections. I'm also looking into lowering it a bit as I've test drove my friends Husky(also '16 250cc 4T) and it was a much better fit(height-wise from factory).

Edited by shablamy
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