Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

how tough is clutch on 350RR ?

Recommended Posts

I mean is it durable, can you ride hard and slip it at will without worrying of burning it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I mean is it durable, can you ride hard and slip it at will without worrying of burning it?

 

Yes

You can abuse the crap out of it, until you wear out the plates.

" how long before the plates wear out " you ask?  Very hard to say. All depends on your riding style and terrain.

 

Many, many BETA's out there with the Rekluse system, which is hard on clutch plates.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would love to give you measurements...but my 15' 350RR clutch was perfect for the first (ballpark) 10 hrs, then it started to drag, i.e. can't get neutral when idling, etc.

 

I have bled it and tried a different trans fluid to no real difference, but I will tell you I put the new "ergonomic" clutch lever on and just in garage idle testing, it "seems" to push the master a tad further and thus the clutch seemed a bit better. No rides yet but will in a few days.

 

I want to tear it apart and see if I have a warped disc of some sort, but been riding it so haven't wanted to. Its not a huge deal at all, and most report they all do this, but mine did not at first, and thats what makes me wonder.

 

I am not a racer, probably Int level rider, I use the clutch as much as needed, but will also say I dropped a tooth on my front sprocket since new so that reduces some clutch slippage needs.

 

WIth all that said, it has not gotten worse one ounce since it started dragging....exactly the same.

 

More reports later this week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would love to give you measurements...but my 15' 350RR clutch was perfect for the first (ballpark) 10 hrs, then it started to drag, i.e. can't get neutral when idling, etc.

 

I have bled it and tried a different trans fluid to no real difference, but I will tell you I put the new "ergonomic" clutch lever on and just in garage idle testing, it "seems" to push the master a tad further and thus the clutch seemed a bit better. No rides yet but will in a few days.

 

I want to tear it apart and see if I have a warped disc of some sort, but been riding it so haven't wanted to. Its not a huge deal at all, and most report they all do this, but mine did not at first, and thats what makes me wonder.

 

I am not a racer, probably Int level rider, I use the clutch as much as needed, but will also say I dropped a tooth on my front sprocket since new so that reduces some clutch slippage needs.

 

WIth all that said, it has not gotten worse one ounce since it started dragging....exactly the same.

 

More reports later this week.

 

The type of oil you use in the trans can cause dragging. Mine drags with Rotella T3 10-40 but is butter smooth with Rotella T6 5-40. If your using something other then factory I would try something else before pulling it apart.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine also drags it just makes neutral hard to find the bike doesn't creep or anything. I agree with th 5w/40 and see this as a positive no false neutrals. If you really need to get out of gear with the engine running select 2nd and tap the lever down to neutral works every time for me. So much love for this bike just sorting the forks 🙂 :) 

 

MM 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The type of oil you use in the trans can cause dragging. Mine drags with Rotella T3 10-40 but is butter smooth with Rotella T6 5-40. If your using something other then factory I would try something else before pulling it apart.

Its had nothing but Motul Transoil Experf until the last change I tried a BG fluid and no help. Going back to Motul. I may try the T6-5-40. As much as it drags, I find it hard to believe its ONLY fluid causing it, but who knows.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its had nothing but Motul Transoil Experf until the last change I tried a BG fluid and no help. Going back to Motul. I may try the T6-5-40. As much as it drags, I find it hard to believe its ONLY fluid causing it, but who knows.

 

I thought the same when I tried T3 10-40. It was terrible, notchy shifting,clutch dragging and hard to find natural though it has worked in other bikes for me. I ran it for about 20 miles and dumped it for T6 5-40. Total night and day difference. I sometimes ride with out using the clutch to shift (lazy). If I barely touch the shifter it falls into gear or natural if I want. Give it a shot and let us know how it works out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  There seems to be a consensus,wrong I believe, amongst motorcycle owners that a heavier oil is somehow better than a lighter oil when it comes to transmissions. If you consider that dedicated 75/90 gear oils are roughly equivalent to a 30 w engine oil, that measured at 100.c. Dirt bike transmissions except in hot ambient temps don't get anywhere near that,heavy clutch slipping not withstanding.

  Modern machining processes have made production tolerances much tighter than back in the day and to heavy oils can cause a number of  undesirable issues. I'd suggest that if your having clutch drag or shifting issues that you try a good synthetic multi grade oil in the 0-30 w range.

Edited by widebear
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  There seems to be a consensus,wrong I believe, amongst motorcycle owners that a heavier oil is somehow better than a lighter oil when it comes to transmissions. If you consider that dedicated 75/90 gear oils are roughly equivalent to a 30 wt engine oil, that measured at 100.c. Dirt bike transmissions except in hot ambient temps don't get anywhere near that,heavy clutch slipping not withstanding.

  Modern machining processes have made production tolerances much tighter than back in the day and to heavy oils can cause a number of  undesirable issues. I'd suggest that if your having clutch drag or shifting issues that you try a good synthetic multi grade oil in the 0-30 wt range.

 

Wt range is only applicable to manf requirements, due to small, or long distance oil passages that require a thinner  or thicker viscosity to keep constant oil pressure at all locations.

It's about oil distribution pressure and volume, not 'how good it lubricates'.

 

A 'heavy' wt is not a 'heavy duty' oil. Usually, it is far from it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Good eye I used the wrong nomenclature in my post . WT should have read W, will edit . None the less. I've been using tractor hydraulic fluid in my gearboxes for some time now .Its thin enough  not to be gummy/ sticky at low temps, has a additive package for wet brakes which functions much the same as a wet clutch and appears to have a pretty decent detergent package as well. Couldn't be happier as its very affordable as well. A consideration when your maintaining a fleet of three dirt bikes as I'd rather spend my hard earned wages on something besides oil..

Edited by widebear
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Good eye I used the wrong nomenclature in my post . WT should have read W, will edit . None the less. I've been using tractor hydraulic fluid in my gearboxes for some time now .Its thin enough  not to be gummy/ sticky at low temps, has a additive package for wet brakes which functions much the same as a wet clutch and appears to have a pretty decent detergent package as well. Couldn't be happier as its very affordable as well. A consideration when your maintaining a fleet of three dirt bikes as I'd rather spend my hard earned wages on something besides oil..

 

That oil you described is really good stuff! I used to buy it in big jug for the wet brakes on my quad. I think it was Mobil 424 or something like that. Never thought of using it for a motorcycle wet clutch. I get Motul lubricants for really cheap so I stick with them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...