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2015 WR250F ignition key


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  • 2 weeks later...

My BD dualsport kit has a new malfunction. Switching the headlight to High Beam kills the engine.

Will post more information as I troubleshoot the problem. It's possible the changes I made to get the key switch to work have caused the problem.

Now have a good idea what the problem is. The headlight Hi-Lo beam switch is made so the high beam is on before the low beam is off.

This prevents things from going dark when flipping to high beam. This also puts a temporary 70 watt load on the electrical system until the low beam goes off.

The Baja Designs dual sport kit has a single 18 gauge wire feeding their entire harness from the battery positive terminal. When this 70 watt load comes on it causes a voltage drop on the entire wire harness.

Since my ECU is now hooked up to the BD wire harness this voltage drop causes the ECU to reboot. The is why the engine dies when switching to high beam.

The only solution I can think of is to get the headlight 12 VDC supply off the BD wire harness. This will be pain to solve.

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  • 4 months later...

Seriously considering a 2015 wr250 f has anyone managed to fit a key ignition without screwing something else up on the bike I'm fairly competent with electrics if someone can point me to a wiring diagram for the bike I'll have a look and also double check with my electrical engineers at work

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I just use a disc lock on my fx. That keeps it from being rolled or ridden away.

Those work great until you forget its there and take off with it on. Shattered discs and calipers are no fun. I use a disc lock in the garage but not on the road.

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  • 7 months later...
On 3/10/2016 at 7:06 AM, GPS Dual Sport said:

Now have a good idea what the problem is. The headlight Hi-Lo beam switch is made so the high beam is on before the low beam is off.

This prevents things from going dark when flipping to high beam. This also puts a temporary 70 watt load on the electrical system until the low beam goes off.

The Baja Designs dual sport kit has a single 18 gauge wire feeding their entire harness from the battery positive terminal. When this 70 watt load comes on it causes a voltage drop on the entire wire harness.

Since my ECU is now hooked up to the BD wire harness this voltage drop causes the ECU to reboot. The is why the engine dies when switching to high beam.

The only solution I can think of is to get the headlight 12 VDC supply off the BD wire harness. This will be pain to solve.

Did you ever figure out a solution to this? I also have a BD kit and I'm having the same issues. My thought right now is to add another 12v relay, switching the positive battery lead to the main fuse, and switched by the key switch. 

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My solution was to dig into the BD wiring on the left handlebar switch. Found the 12VDC wire feeding the HI/LO Beam switch. Also found this wire was was connected to another wire that went back into the BD wire harness. Now things get complicated.

Traced these two wires back in the main BD harness past the left handlebar switch connector. Cut these two wire outs of the handlebar switch connector on the main harness side and soldered them together. This is necessary so the BD kit still powers up with the key switch.

Now you have to apply 12 VDC to the wire feeding the HI/LO Beam switch. Now working on the Yamaha wiring harness pull the 12 VDC wire feeding the connector attached to headlight bulb. Cut this wire and connect it to the cut wire feeding the BD HI/LO Beam Switch. Now the WR harness supplies 12 VDC to the BD HI/LO Beam switch.

More BD harness cutting. Working on the BD headlight bulb connector cut off the High and Low beam wires. The BD high beam wire connects to the cut wire on the WR headlight connector. There is a empty hole on the WR light bulb connector. You will need OEM terminal lug from another Yamaha headlight connector, solder that on the BD low beam wire and stuff into the WR light bulb connector.

You have to be able to trace wires, cut solder and heat shrink new connections plus have a proper headlight terminal from another wire harness. This rewiring job connects the WR headlight relay to the BD HI/LO Beam switch. The headlight fuse is now in the WR wire harness. When the engine stops running the headlight turns off. You can leave the key switch on and not drain the battery. This is a nice benefit to all this work.

On the down side you now have hard wired your WR wire harness into the BD main harness.

Please don't ask for photos on the wiring rework. I sold my 2015 WR250F a couple of months ago.

Edited by GPS Dual Sport
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4 hours ago, GPS Dual Sport said:

My solution was to dig into the BD wiring on the left handlebar switch. Found the 12VDC wire feeding the HI/LO Beam switch. Also found this wire was was connected to another wire that went back into the BD wire harness. Now things get complicated.

Traced these two wires back in the main BD harness past the left handlebar switch connector. Cut these two wire outs of the handlebar switch connector on the main harness side and soldered them together. This is necessary so the BD kit still powers up with the key switch.

Now you have to apply 12 VDC to the wire feeding the HI/LO Beam switch. Now working on the Yamaha wiring harness pull the 12 VDC wire feeding the connector attached to headlight bulb. Cut this wire and connect it to the cut wire feeding the BD HI/LO Beam Switch. Now the WR harness supplies 12 VDC to the BD HI/LO Beam switch.

More BD harness cutting. Working on the BD headlight bulb connector cut off the High and Low beam wires. The BD high beam wire connects to the cut wire on the WR headlight connector. There is a empty hole on the WR light bulb connector. You will need OEM terminal lug from another Yamaha headlight connector, solder that on the BD low beam wire and stuff into the WR light bulb connector.

You have to be able to trace wires, cut solder and heat shrink new connections plus have a proper headlight terminal from another wire harness. This rewiring job connects the WR headlight relay to the BD HI/LO Beam switch. The headlight fuse is now in the WR wire harness. When the engine stops running the headlight turns off. You can leave the key switch on and not drain the battery. This is a nice benefit to all this work.

On the down side you now have hard wired your WR wire harness into the BD main harness.

Please don't ask for photos on the wiring rework. I sold my 2015 WR250F a couple of months ago.

So did you end up still using the 12v from the ECU for the key switch or did you abandon that and just rewiring the headlights like this worked? I was under the impression from earlier in the thread that the problem was with the engine stop relay, not the headlights. 

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That's almost correct. I created the problem by connecting the 12 VDC supply for the ECU to the BD wire harness.

The goal was to have the BD key switch shut the bike off. No key - No start. That part worked OK until I switched from low beam to high beam and the engine died.

To solve the engine dying problem the headlight got rewired following the instructions in the previous post.

This put the ECU, turn signals, horn, tail light and brake light on the BD wiring harness all using the single fuse in the BD harness.. The headlight is on the WR wiring harness and the WR headlight fuse feeding the BD Hi/Lo beam switch.

This solves the engine dying problem when switching for Lo to High beam. And the key switch controls power to the ECU. Key off = engine off.

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15 hours ago, GPS Dual Sport said:

That's almost correct. I created the problem by connecting the 12 VDC supply for the ECU to the BD wire harness.

The goal was to have the BD key switch shut the bike off. No key - No start. That part worked OK until I switched from low beam to high beam and the engine died.

To solve the engine dying problem the headlight got rewired following the instructions in the previous post.

This put the ECU, turn signals, horn, tail light and brake light on the BD wiring harness all using the single fuse in the BD harness.. The headlight is on the WR wiring harness and the WR headlight fuse feeding the BD Hi/Lo beam switch.

This solves the engine dying problem when switching for Lo to High beam. And the key switch controls power to the ECU. Key off = engine off.

What happens if you hit the kill switch now? It sounds like you are no longer using the kill relay to stop the bike as you're actually just cutting power to the ECU? 

Do you think the above would work to solve the issue in the end, without tapping into the ECU 12v?

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The kill button works same as OEM. Press and the engine dies. Press and hold for 3 seconds and the main power relay shuts off and the ODO goes blank. This nifty trick to get the kill button to perform different tasks depending on how long you press the button is done by sensing the current flow in the kill button circuit.

Do not connect the BD kit to the kill button connector like the instructions say. The kill button attaches directly to the ECU and is a current draw on the battery when pushed. The BD dual sport kit key switch 'presses' the kill button in the off position. This will drain the battery is a couple of days and the bike won't start. The fine folks at BD don't have a clue their dual sport kit causes this problem or they are too lazy to address this issue. I called in Baja Designs about this problem and the guy I spoke too denied there was any problem with their kit.

With all the wiring modifications I've done the key switch does this:

Key off, nothing happens when you press the starter button.

Key on, power is applied to the BD wire harness. Tail light comes on. The horn, turn signals and brake light works when you flip switches. The ODO stay off until you press the starter button. Head light does not work until the engine is running.

With the bike running turning the key to the off position shuts off the 12 VDC to the ECU. The engine shuts off and the ODO goes blank.

 

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Ok I'm in the process of this mod now. Did you cut into the 12v for the ECU right at the connector? And then you just brought 2 wires to the switch from there, and tapped off of that same wire after the switch to go to the gray wire (12v +) going into the connector for the hi/lo thumb controls?

 

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I have all the wiring done how you said, except I haven't cut into the ECU wire yet. I am a little unsure of which one you mean, as there is 12v on more than one of the many wires going into the ECU connector. Looking at the manual, I see 12v for the ignition, the fuel injection, the starter, etc going to the ECU. Any idea which one it is?

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OK I figured it out. Took quite a few read throughs to fully understand your walk through, but it worked. I'm going to post a new thread with the solution and some pictures so that anybody searching for the answer in the future can more easily find it. Thanks a ton for your write ups and help Mr. GPS

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Funny, because I have a 2016 WR250F that had the Baja Designs dual sport Kit fitted just as the instructions say for a couple of weeks, and had no problems with it once I completed the installation - it functioned perfectly.

The bike sat for at least a week after installation with no battery problems, and always started when wanted.

The single issue I had was during installation, where the Baja Designs left-hand switch (HI/LO beam switch assembly) would not fully plug in to it's connector.

I noticed this when the HI beam indicator light (little blue light on the left-hand switch) was still lit while on Lo beam, although dimly lit.

I unplugged the connector for that switch, noticed a pin slightly bent out of line, straightened it out, plugged the switch connector back in, and the switch and HI beam indicator light then worked as normal.

Don't know why my Baja Designs kit or my 2016 WR250F can be any different for those having a battery drain problem.

I post this wondering if some have a bad connection with one of the connector plugs like I did temporarily during installation.

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Some background info about my BD kit used on my 2015 WR. The instructions in the kit were for the 5 valve WR450. The 5 valve head WR 250 and 450 had a main power switch. Press the main power button and ODO would light up and the starter will fire the bike up.

I bought a 2017 WR250 in January and went back to Baja Designs and asked if there were any changes for their dual sport kit. The guy I spoke too told me their kit fitted all the WR models including the old 5 valve bikes. This was a deal breaker for me with all the modification I had to make to their kit for my 2015 WR.

YZEct. I'm glad your BD kit has worked fine on your 2016 WR. Talking with Baja Designs I got the impression there has been no updates on their kit since I bought my last one. So I went shopping elsewhere.

I bought a Tusk dual sport kit from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. It was cheaper and the headlight HI/LO beam switch was made to powered by the WR headlight 12 VDC wire. The only harness modification needed was to connect ECU to the key switch.

The items lacking on the Tusk kit was the Key switch, High Beam indicator LED and mounting tabs for the front turn signals. Even with the extra cost of the Key switch the Tusk kit was less than BD.

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I hope i'm not off topic, but can some sort of key switch be wired in line with the starter button wiring...just cut one wire and install the switch in line ???

I'm looking for the key set up myself..just to prevent the hit the starter button and go...when the bike is not being used ( prevents honest people from riding away)

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  • 3 years later...
On 3/26/2017 at 9:54 AM, GPS Dual Sport said:

Some background info about my BD kit used on my 2015 WR. The instructions in the kit were for the 5 valve WR450. The 5 valve head WR 250 and 450 had a main power switch. Press the main power button and ODO would light up and the starter will fire the bike up.

I bought a 2017 WR250 in January and went back to Baja Designs and asked if there were any changes for their dual sport kit. The guy I spoke too told me their kit fitted all the WR models including the old 5 valve bikes. This was a deal breaker for me with all the modification I had to make to their kit for my 2015 WR.

YZEct. I'm glad your BD kit has worked fine on your 2016 WR. Talking with Baja Designs I got the impression there has been no updates on their kit since I bought my last one. So I went shopping elsewhere.

I bought a Tusk dual sport kit from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. It was cheaper and the headlight HI/LO beam switch was made to powered by the WR headlight 12 VDC wire. The only harness modification needed was to connect ECU to the key switch.

The items lacking on the Tusk kit was the Key switch, High Beam indicator LED and mounting tabs for the front turn signals. Even with the extra cost of the Key switch the Tusk kit was less than BD.

Hey @GPS Dual Sport i just purchased the TUSK Enduro street legal kit. For my Yamaha 2015 WR250F https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-motorcycle-enduro-lighting-kit-p  One of my biggest concerns for the kit were that it did not come with a Key/ignition switch. One of my worries was that me parking my bike and public and someone can start it right up and take off with it without needing a key. My question to you @GPS Dual Sport is would it be even worth it to go through the hassle/time and payments to get a key ignition and switch to add on to the bike? and if so or not. what is your recommendation?

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Hey Carson,

Sent you a PM with some wiring info. It key switch can be added without much drama. There a several sources for Generic Key switches. RM and Sicass are two sources. Lower cost key switches can be found searching Amazon also.

If  you're hoping for something plug and play you out of luck. You will have to splice into the Tusk harness under the seat. This will require some wiring and soldering skills. The other skill is removing a pin from the Yamaha wire harness junction block that is also located under the seat.

Read through the PM and let me know what other info you need.

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  • 6 months later...

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