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total rewire

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Hi all

Over the winter I will hopefully be rewiring totally my Klr600 B2 1986. The wire is getting old and failures in the electrickery system are happening to often.

Managed to get hold of an old harness to copy , But have a few questions .

How do I know what guage wire to use ?.

Am I better going for a higher guage wire ?. As I understand bike manufacturers use the minimum guage needed .

I am upgrading my stator thanks for the info of the lads on this site also reg/rec .

I understand the stator on my 600 put's out approx 165 watts , with the upgrade I hope to get around 235 watts .

Any thoughts would be helpful .



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I hope not to appear presumptuous so please pardon if it appears that way.

It's best to use amps rather than watts since watts are an expression of power and don't indicate wire requirements, predict voltage drops, etc.

Amps times volts = watts so, using 14 volts for reference, divide 235 watts by 14 volts = 16-3/4 amps. We usually consider the output as 17 amps because the VRR set point is a bit above 14 volts.

If you consider that 17 amps as the maximum current flow, then this is of interest primarily in planning the White Wire since that is the VRR output to battery and ignition. It is unlikely for the current flow to be higher when the VRR is not delivering power since the voltage is lower.

I recommend beginning with a plan as to what you want the electrical system to accomplish. Will it be the same circuitry as the stock system with larger wire to reduce voltage drop/line loss? If so then I can help to identify the wires which will benefit from upgrading since not all will make a difference. Obviously, using larger wires increases cost but, more to the point, larger wires can create routing and connection problems, especially if using the original plugs.

We have been kicking around ideas for the ideal wiring harness for the Gen1 KLR650 for some time and I will likely begin to construct that harness in the next while.

You may have an interest in consulting on the projects since they will be parallel?

There are many questions to be considered:
1) Will you use the stock or other incandescent headlight, LED or HID?
2) Will you retain the safety switches in stock configuration, include a switch to disable, or remove them?

3) Will you retain the stock signal lights with incandescent bulbs, switch some or all to LED, or install different LED lights?

4) Will you incorporate harness wiring for heated grips, clothing, battery charging, etc. into the new harness or as separate harness?

Lots more but good to have worked out for your own best use before beginning, IME.

As for the stator upgrade, I recommend not buying a KLR650 VRR. The MOSFET VRR I use for most systems is lower cost, new and provides superior performance.

Not sure if this is the best group for this type of project discussion. Pleasant people but not much traffic. 

Have you looked over my KLR650 Gen1 wiring information? It would be helpful to hear of the differences from the 600 as haven't had time to go into detail on the 600 system to the same degree.

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Hi NormK

Thanks for the info.

I will be using new waterproof style connectors.

Using a HID headlight

Removing safety switches

LED indicators

Hopefully incorporating plugs for Heated grips/clothes and GPS into harness

I have looked at and contacted Mosfet will be going that way.

Not had a lot to do with electrics but can solder and crimp and willing to listen and learn , just wanted to try and see what I could do , I am confident with help and time I can build my harness.

Thanks again

Mike 👍

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Hey Micky0121,

A while back I think I mentioned the KlR 650 stator fits KL600 and the MOSFET reg/rec. I did these for my 1985 KL600. With my bike there was 1 power wire leaving the ignition switch (white) to a single fuse. A brown wire left the fuse box to power all lights. These old wires lose efficiency over time making the poorly designed system under powered. I ran new wire 14 and 16 gauge, but also added more fuses and relays one for high beam one for low beam. Headlight is now very bright and I have no dimming of lights when I turn on running lights or hand warmers. I use switched power to wake up relays so nothing is on when key is off. This took time a wire diagram and patience.

Just for conversation this is the bike that I fit a KLR 650 crank (2006) and a 2005 top end (cylinder and piston). I have done many other mods to this bike and put on 3,500 miles last summer. The power gains make this bike a blast off road and gives

the ability to pass cars quickly. To stop I got a 650 front brake rotor and a Vulcan (Kawa) dual piston caliper. The rotor bolts on and the caliper required 1 new threaded hole. Stopping power is wonderful.

If anyone cares I would be happy to go over lots of other mods I have done. I always like to read the great stuff many other people have done to there bikes.

Got to Love the KL and KLR


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really no point in using LED indicators except for looks. if you do use them, you will either need a "no load" flasher so they will flash, or dropping resistors to pull enough current to make the flasher work (which is counter to saving power). in any case, the indicator light on the dash always gives trouble because it is one indicator for both sides. if you go LED, the indicator has to be modified so the socket goes to ground, and either side can supply the hot for the bulb. the hitch is that both sides need another diode so they don't cross feed. splice a wire with a diode into each side.. the signals have 2 wires..... green is hot, bk/y is ground. when they go into the harness, left is green to green, and right  is green to gray. patch in to the "hots" and  connect them to the socket for a feed

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