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Picked up a stock 08 few questions

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Picked up a stock 08, never raced, owned by an older man since new

Dies when warmed up, clutch pulled in while riding. Maybe need valves relashed/shimmed?

I plan on putting kibblewhite valves and spring kit in it. Should I do intake AND exhaust? Or just the intake ones.

I have not tore into it, nor checked the valve clearance.

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Congrats on your purchase. The 08 is a great bike.  For starters I would get a service manual (not owner's manual).  That will walk you all maintenance procedures for your bike.  PDF electronic copies are floating around on the internets, hopefully someone will see this and shoot you a copy.  The FAQ post pinned at the top of this forum is a great resource and has suggestions about running your valve tolerances tighter than recommended, oil quantities ect.  Does the bike die when you blip the throttle with the clutch pulled in? If this is the case there may be a problem with the carberator accelerator pump.  It may not be timed properly or the leak jet in the carb is not the correct size. Normal idle is about 1800-1900 rpm. Setting the idle a little higher will help this problem. If the bike starts easily your valves are probably ok.  The exhuast valves are stainless steel and are probably ok.  I would just clean them up and replace the springs and seals.  The intake valves are titanium.  If you replace them with stainless you will need a heavier spring kit as tthe stock springs are designed for the lighter Ti valves.   It would also be a good idea to get the valve seats cut.  The valves on that year are pretty good.  I got 200+ hours on my 08 before I replaced them and they had not moved.  You will need an hour meter with a tachometer so that you can set the idle and track maintenance. Before you tear into it I would do a search for "valves" as there is a lot of information about the best route to take as I have barely scratched the surface. Good luck. 

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Thanks for the reply. I did as much research as I could before being dead set on getting an 08. I've read about valves till I was blue in the face. I know the intake valves were ti but didn't know about the exhaust valves. I plan on getting a spring kit because I'm sure the guy before me didn't "back off" the bike when he parked it. (Another thing I read about that prolongs valve spring life) but yeah the guy claims to have his mechanic friend at a Harley Stealership maintain the bike. I road it up and down the road and it stalled when I pulled in the clutch to downshift and ride through a ditch. I will do some research on the carb accelerator pump. If my valves are good would you recommend putting in some Kibblewhite intake valves and springs anyways? I plan on getting an hour meter very soon. I was just happy to get an unmolested 08 :D I live in Michigan so I have a few months.

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I saw your bike you posted photos of, nice find. That bike hardly looks ridden at all. I raced an 08 for 5 years, great bike. Don't replace valves just yet. You will easily get over 100 hrs. + before you need to even think about replacing. If jetting is stock, you need to lean it out quite a bit. Here are some base line main jet suggestions, depending on your elev.

2000 feet 162

4000 feet 160

6000 feet 158

8000 feet 155.

And try messing around with a 42 or 45 pilot jet.

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^^this^^

Before you buy valves, pull the tank, drain the gas, and peel out the carb. These carbs work great, but just a tiny spec of crud in them will cause all sorts of hassles, and our fuel these days can't sit for longer than a few months in a bike before it goes off and gets punky in the carb.. (Always run the carb empty when not using the bike for a while)

With the tank off and carb out of the bike, lift the valve cover and check the lash first. I would assume that looking at the condition of that 08, it's spent a few periods of not being used, and since getting the carb out is a bit of a pain, I would suspect the po would just add fuel and ride it when there was time..

Get to know that carb, and keep it clean, and that bike will be hassle free for a long time..!

If the valves are out of spec, then lift the tower off and see what shims are being used.. The smallest shim available is a 120, so if it's close to that already, it's been shimmed before and the valves need replacing..

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Thanks for all of the advice. The story goes a kids father passed away and left him this bike. Seemed legit once I met the kid and his brother and they were selling the remainder of his father's toys. At any rate the bike was trail ridden in Northern Michigan. The kid said he rode it when the family went up North but didn't have the kahunas to get into her. The po claims the carb was recently cleaned by the mechanic, but he could have just been trying to sell. I'll confirm with him today. So take the carb apart and clean it, and check the jets and check the lash on the valve? Sounds good. I will tidy up my garage today and pull the carb.

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Would it have a lot to do with it being in the 20s here in Michigan and it's probably jetted for spring/summer Michigan weather? It stalled during my test ride of the bike.

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Would it have a lot to do with it being in the 20s here in Michigan and it's probably jetted for spring/summer Michigan weather? It stalled during my test ride of the bike.

no, I'm in Canada, and we rode stock jetted 08's the last 2 winters on the ice with stock jetting. There is plenty of fuel there for them to run in the cold.

My advice is to warm it up, and locate the fuel mixture screw ( it is in the bottom of the carb towards the front of the bike) and open it up a turn or so. Then, by opening the throttle and revving it, then closing it quickly, it will create a strong vacuum to draw through any bit of dirt or varnish around the taper of the screw seat.. Then set the screw back to the factory setting and see if it helped.. Or, pull the carb apart and make sure it is spotless inside, and that the little O-ring is there that seals the fuel mixture screw threads in the body of the carb

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Can't see that bike needing valves. Looks nearly new. Look for something easy/free first. HRC's suggestions, etc.

I remember my brothers new '84 500 stalling the same way back in the day. I checked it and it had so much clutch cable play it didn't disengage the clutch fully when warm. In other words, don't jump to the worse case scenario when it comes to mechanics.

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In the first picture the carb boot is not connected. The exposed rib on the intake should be covered by the boot.  This could have allowed dirt to enter the engine and ruin the top end. In the second picture the slot in the boot indicates where the carb protrusion should fit so that it is level - not a big deal. I would go completely over that bike before riding it.  Hopefully the top end is not ruined. 

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Yes, definitely a fine tooth comb. I spoke to the owner and he said 10 hours tops have been put on the bike since the carb has been like that. It has super good compression using my foot as a gauge and reading others starting theirs with their hand.

He didn't know the carb was like that...10 hours has been put on the bike since the carb was pulled ad cleaned

Edited by StrictlyCustom

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10 hours!? 10 minutes like that is too much. I hope the previous owner has an exaggerated sense of time

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It doesn't look like it's completely off of the carb. It looks like it's over the first rib just not the second. I haven't had time to check it out yet.

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Don't panic yet. If I found that I'd remove the carb and inspect the intake for debris. Since the carb is out clean it. If there is no sign of dirt in the intake then just bolt it back up and carry on.

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