Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Trail Tech and Fuel Light Husqvarna TE511 Dirt/Motard

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Long time reader but I finally thought I would join the forum and help out.

 

Had my 2011 TE511 Husky for a few years now and last year I did the CBR Motard conversion.

http://motard-supermoto-wheels.sportsontheweb.net/index.htm

(Please note I had to change my spacers as the instructions are for a 2010 not a 2011)

 

IMG_3241.JPG 

 

This obviously triggered issues with my speed and odometer, so I bought a Trail Tech Vapor to solve all my issues.

The Vapor sat in the cupboard for a good 6 months but now I eventually found the time to install it.

 

Here are the issues that I had and how they were solved

 

1. Speed is incorrect when wheels are changed from Dirt to Motard.

 

(Buy a Trail Tech)

 

2. Coil sensing wire that was supplied with the Vapor had only the single red wire which is designed to be wrapped around the coil wire, I installed it as per the instructions but would not get any signals. The Husky has a coil pack on top of the spark plug so it is required to be wrapped around the shaft going to the plug.

 

(I stripped the black off the coil sensing wire to expose 870mm of red wire (less turns may work but I stopped testing after it started to work), I wrapped it around as tight as possible and held in position with electrical tape, reinstalled the weather seal and reinstalled into the bike (this seamed to work but when I bolted the coil down with the M6 bolt it stopped working). Removed the bolt and installed 2x flat stainless washers between the coil pack and the head which raised the coil 2mm, then the signal was receiving again. Also changed the Vapor settings to 0.5 PPR)

(I believe that tightening the coil down was the issue not the amount of turns so if you have a go then try with the standard 5 turns and keep increasing as necessary)

 

IMG_4395.JPG

IMG_4397.JPG

IMG_4398.JPG

IMG_4399.JPG

 

Now for the indication lights

 

3. As the old dash had 1 indication for the indicators I assumed there would be 1 signal wire, so I installed 1 LED with 470ohm resistor in series then found out there is actually 2 signals into the original dash (Left, Right)

 

(Installed the following in an Aluminum C bar, 2x Super Bright water clear AMBER LEDs with 1x 470ohm resistor in series with each LED, 1x Super Bright water clear BLUE LED with 1x 470ohm resistor in series with the LED, 1x Super Bright water clear RED LED (NO RESISTOR), then I put heat shrink over the resistors and wires to stop circuits bridging and filled the back with silicone to try keep the weather out)

(Left, Hi Beam, Fuel, Right)

(Amber, Blue, Red, Amber)

 

IMG_4403.JPG

IMG_4404.JPG

IMG_4409.JPG

 

4. As the old dash had an LED for the fuel light I also assumed this would be a 12V signal (I really should stop assuming)

 

Fuel senders are a resistive load depending on the level which as the resistance increases the 12v supply will decrease.

 

The fuel sender is mounted inside the surge tank so I spent a fair bit of time filling and emptying the tank with the original dash installed to verify when the Light activates (Double check how your sender operates as the following readings are for my bike)

 

Tank Full 11.5v (Low resistance)

Fuel light activates 5v or less

Tank Empty 4v (High resistance)

 

So now I had to make a circuit board to turn on an LED at or below 5V. After 3 different circuits I came up with this.

 

Fuel Light Circuit.gif

 

In the picture there is a 6.8V Zenner Diode which should turn on the LED at 6.8V but it didn't, the LED came on at 6.2V

I tried a 6.2V Zenner Diode which the LED came on at 5v "Perfect" but I wanted to allow a little bit of room incase there was errors in my works. So I kept the 6.8V Zenner Diode with the Low Fuel Led illuminating at 6.2V (as the sender only monitors the surge tank it will not make much difference e.g. 1/4 cup of fuel extra)

 

(I originally set it up on test breadboard then once I was happy with the result I wired the final master piece, then I had an old relay from work which I removed the guts and sat my new PCB inside and sealed it with some more silicone.

 

IMG_4402.JPG

IMG_4408.JPG

 

So far I have tested all of the above in the garage but I am yet to have a day on the trails or on the mountain. But from my testing I'm not worried

 

IMG_4407.JPG

IMG_4406.JPG

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice.  I had the same problem.  Your circuit is simpler than mine and I wish I would have found this in time.  I used an op-amp as a comparator.

LowFuelCircuit-X3-M.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...

Now for the indication lights

 

3. As the old dash had 1 indication for the indicators I assumed there would be 1 signal wire, so I installed 1 LED with 470ohm resistor in series then found out there is actually 2 signals into the original dash (Left, Right)

 

Just "wire-OR" [a logic term] them together using 2 diodes. Now you can have one LED that flashes for both directions. Your dash not only had a single LED, but also probably two small LCD arrows (useless, IMO).

 

 

...

(Installed the following in an Aluminum C bar, 2x Super Bright water clear AMBER LEDs with 1x 470ohm resistor in series with each LED, 1x Super Bright water clear BLUE LED with 1x 470ohm resistor in series with the LED, 1x Super Bright water clear RED LED (NO RESISTOR), then I put heat shrink over the resistors and wires to stop circuits bridging and filled the back with silicone to try keep the weather out)

(Left, Hi Beam, Fuel, Right)

(Amber, Blue, Red, Amber)

 

Have you tired the LEDs at night? They might be too bright. I did something similar on my 310R and ended having to put a less bright blue LED for the high beams.

 

My other LEDs are okay at the brightness because they are not on for any length of time (actually, the red & yellow aren't real bad on their own). My 5 LEDs are: green TURN, blue HI BEAM, yellow LOW FUEL, red HI TEMP/FAN (not connected yet) and white FUEL INJECTION error. Actually, I've been waiting over a month now for a 10-pin connector from China so I can plug into the stock connector.  I order lots of stuff from China; but the thing I need the most is the first thing that didn't make to the US. sheesh.

 

And your bike does not come with the FI error indicator? maybe it's only a feature on the keyless huskies. It's not a very useful idiot light IMNSHO, so it's not like you're missing out on anything.

 

 

...

The fuel sender is mounted inside the surge tank so I spent a fair bit of time filling and emptying the tank with the original dash installed to verify when the Light activates (Double check how your sender operates as the following readings are for my bike)

 

Tank Full 11.5v (Low resistance)

Fuel light activates 5v or less

Tank Empty 4v (High resistance)

 

So now I had to make a circuit board to turn on an LED at or below 5V. After 3 different circuits I came up with this.

 

really? ....hunh.  449/511s must be different than 310s, because my low fuel indicator is a simple reed switch and magnetic float (I am assuming) with a 68ohm resistor (whose lead is broken at the moment I think- a common 311 problem). Maybe I should investigate this a bit more....

 

Actually, I don't know if it's a "pull-down" resistor or a "pull-up" yet- the low-fuel system was flaky from the get-go (LED was coming on with 1-1/2 gallons left in a 2.1g tank... and then something snapped and it's on full time now. I never paid it any attention anyways. 

 

 

...

In the picture there is a 6.8V Zenner Diode which should turn on the LED at 6.8V but it didn't, the LED came on at 6.2V

I tried a 6.2V Zenner Diode which the LED came on at 5v "Perfect" but I wanted to allow a little bit of room incase there was errors in my works. So I kept the 6.8V Zenner Diode with the Low Fuel Led illuminating at 6.2V (as the sender only monitors the surge tank it will not make much difference e.g. 1/4 cup of fuel extra)

(I originally set it up on test breadboard then once I was happy with the result I wired the final master piece, then I had an old relay from work which I removed the guts and sat my new PCB inside and sealed it with some more silicone.

 

couple of thoughts: your running voltage might be different than what you measured- which *might* affect the "on/off" voltages of your circuit (I guess you could use a constant current source).  The Zenner voltage differences might have been affected by the base-emitter voltage drop (0.6v in a silicon NPN). maybe; no biggie though.

 

nice idea to encapsulate it into a relay box- I am assuming it has one of those handy mounting tabs. You can also use, instead of silly cone, polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue here in the US) which is lighter and expands (at different rates depending). It is insanely sticky before curing and strong after, but it doesn't like gas. OTOH you might be able to use carb cleaner to dissolve it and possibly do mods/repairs.

 

Thanks for the ideas. 👍

 

 

drrags-

nice! I used to use quad-741s for all kinds of projects. your design allows you to drive just about any thing you could want.

Edited by Trenchcoat85

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great stuff Luxie, perfect timing, I'm in the process of putting a Vapor on the 511. Could you clarify the wiring of the LEDs with a diagram?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...