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Nick in cam Lobe - Pic in thread - Is it usable?

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Hey guys.

 

Went to remove my autodecomp today and made a critical mistake...just barely nicked the lobe with the dremel.  🤦

 

Wanted to get the opinion of the group as to whether this cam is still usable. Note the pic is zoomed in. I took some emery cloth to the nick and there's no raised edge. Personally I've seen cams pitted worse than this come out of motors, but I just don't know enough about them to make a solid call on this one.

 

Whatchya think...usable or not?

 

 

Thanks!

 

12553034_10156432686715113_1223151375208082452_n (1).jpg 

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No problem at all.  

 

Actually the decompression is easy to just break off.   All you have to do is clamp the cam in a vise by the ends and twist the decompression with a Crescent wrench.  it breaks right off. Saves all that grinding. Then remove the little pieces - retaining ring, alignment pin, etc.

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No problem at all.  

 

Actually the decompression is easy to just break off.   All you have to do is clamp the cam in a vise by the ends and twist the decompression with a Crescent wrench.  it breaks right off. Saves all that grinding. Then remove the little pieces - retaining ring, alignment pin, etc.

Yeah .. Grinding off the decomp is a slow process

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I just removed mine recently and when my bike is cold, it will not turn over. Never had a problem before. On the other hand when it is warmed up, it starts really quick. I just have to jump the battery when it's cold. Probably a good reason to buy a good, new battery!  :jawdrop:  :jawdrop:

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I just removed mine recently and when my bike is cold, it will not turn over. Never had a problem before. On the other hand when it is warmed up, it starts really quick. I just have to jump the battery when it's cold. Probably a good reason to buy a good, new battery!  :jawdrop:  :jawdrop:

 

That's exactly what mine does now. Gonna get a battery with better CCA's.  It starts in a half second when warm tho!

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No problem at all.  

 

Actually the decompression is easy to just break off.   All you have to do is clamp the cam in a vise by the ends and twist the decompression with a Crescent wrench.  it breaks right off. Saves all that grinding. Then remove the little pieces - retaining ring, alignment pin, etc.

 

That woulda been good to know last night before I took a dremel to it 🤣

 

It wasn't all to hard to make two small cuts and then use a chisel to break off, I just managed to catch the cutoff wheel in the groove and it launched the dremel towards the lobe.  :banghead:

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why would you remove an auto decomp?

surely suzuki with their multi billion R&D would know best,i can't think of a single bike with a starter motor that doesn't have an auto decomp, correct me if i am wrong

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why would you remove an auto decomp?

surely suzuki with their multi billion R&D would know best,i can't think of a single bike with a starter motor that doesn't have an auto decomp, correct me if i am wrong

I've read that it makes noise and can break sending debris into the engine. Doesn't affect the E model, not sure about the K (kickstart only).

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Affects all models of DRZ400 - S, SM, E, Kick. and some other Suzuki motorcycles. Plus my garden tractor with Koulor motor.

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JP, check for burrs before you install cam.  Gently run a very fine sharpening stone over the divot.  If a burr is detected, smooth over til it matches the cam surface.  Least material removed is best.  Polish with crocus clothe if needed.  Not thrilled it's near the lobe tip, lotta pressure there.

 

It looks more like there was loose sand in the mold.

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Affects all models of DRZ400 - S, SM, E, Kick. and some other Suzuki motorcycles. Plus my garden tractor with Koulor motor.

Soooo, this means the E cams I have sitting next to me weren't necessarily the best option. Hotcams?

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Obviously make sure to grind down the nick above the surface. After that it will ok to,run without issue.

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