Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

DRZ400E Jetting

Recommended Posts

So installed my JD jet kit a while back whilst doing my engine rebuild (took a few months with work and taking my time as i have never done anything like this, previous mechanical experience with any form of motorized vehicle was a basic oil change and bearing replacement... haha) and long story short i lost the install/altitude sheet and have a feeling i installed the wrong needles they supplied me with as my bike is topping out at 75mph so it seems (wouldnt want to rev it any higher) and has hard decel popping and my fuel is draining as fast as it would if i had someone drinking it with a straw while i ride at the same time.

 

So my question really, is do you guys have a copy of the install guide or know what i should have put in? 

 

My altitude is 0-200 above sea level, bike is an 05DRZ400E with the fcr has stock E pipe and header with the air box snorkel removed (3x3) also saw a post in regards to removal of the coast enrichner and wondered what size jet i should install if i was to do this too?

 

Many thanks, and a happy new year to all

 

:ride:  👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can verify the following:

Float setting 9mm (and the float is actually working to shut off the fuel)

Main jet - 165 or smaller.  (between 155 and 165)

Pilot jet - 45

Main air jet - 200

Pilot air jet - 60  (with the CE intact)

Slide needle - OBDXP on clip 4 or 5 from the top (stock needle, -4 is the stock clip position)

JD needle would be the blue top needle, clip -3 or -4.  (for your conditions the blue needle is the right one.  Red top will be leaner for higher altitudes and/or higher temperatures)

 

You may be able to find the JD Jetting instructions on the JD web site.

 

It is hard to believe any wrong jetting will result in the fuel consumption you report short of the main jet being omitted.  Is there something choking the air inlet, rag in the air box? filter clogged up?  Try removing the air box side panel. and /or even removing the air filter as a test.

Are the carb bowl vent tubes just hanging down under the motor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

...Are the carb bowl vent tubes just hanging down under the motor?

Is that a problem?

 

My carb vents are all stock. The only problem I see is stalling if I get stuck in deep creek crossings.

Edited by Spensersdad

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hanging down is just fine not a problem other than water crossings.  If the were in some weird place it might be a problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ill be taking a look at the jets installed tomorrow, as for rag in the intake etc, nope all good was all cleaned and refurbed a few days ago after i finished the rebuild so air flow is all good. I have however noticed my float is getting stuck or level is too high/low as if i shut the bike off, fuel leaks but doesn't leak while running. tried the tapping method and also resetting the float bowl height with no luck so ordered myself a rebuild kit with all the seals and gaskets and will be doing that shortly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

okay, so got the carb out of the bike the other day.  Running the blue needle on 3rd clip from top, 200 main air jet 45 pilot jet, main jet i believe was a 158 or 155 float bowl height is correctly 9mm (checked as i replaced all gaskets etc due to the fuel leak which is now solved) i followed the CE removal which was remove it, plug the port on the engine, two other ports on carb and remove the pilot air jet giving you close to a 100 pilot air jet (as i read anywho) my fuel mixture screw is 2.5 turns from closed.

 

When setting the idle screw am i right in saying the bike should not idle at all if the screw isn't touching the throttle wheel? as mine does not, yet i have to wind it in a considerable amount to get the bike started the bike seems to heavily bog if i blip the throttle from idle, so much so i can stall it like this also if i rev the bike it will hang for a few seconds, occasionally for up to 8 seconds then return back to the idle speed, i've checked for air leaks etc from what i can tell there is none, all vacuum lines are flowing down under the bike. 

 

also, i had a look at my carbs slide as it is rattling, looking at the diagram of a fcr carb my slide is installed upside down, yet if i try to install it the reverse way i cannot put the slide back into the carb?

 

Any suggestions on what i should try now?

 

Thanks in advance, you guys rock :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 blue needle on 3rd clip from top,-----OK


200 main air jet-----OK


45 pilot jet------OK


main jet 158 or 155------OK


float height is correctly 9mm------OK


CE removal which was remove it, plug the port on the engine,-----OK


(plug) two other ports on carb and remove the pilot air jet giving you close to a 100 pilot air jet-------NO.  Actually never tried that but there has never been a recommendation to remove the air jet from the OEM slant body FCR.  Removing the air jet is for the MX body of which most do not have CE or air cut off valve.  To remove the CE, plug the port on the head and connect the 2 ports on the carb with a hose OR plug all 3 ports and change the 60 pilot air jet to a 100.


my fuel mixture screw is 2.5 turns from closed.  OK


When setting the idle screw am i right in saying the bike should not idle at all if the screw isn't touching the throttle wheel?----Yes


bike seems to heavily bog if i blip the throttle from idle,-------Might help to correct the CE removal.  Verify the accelerator pump (AP) is working.


I had a look at my carb slide as it is rattling------Normal


looking at the diagram of a FCR carb my slide is installed upside down------No. Most diagrams show it wrong.  The vacuum plate fits into the roller slide so that the square edge with the center notch goes down.  It should fit either way but the square edge goes down.  The slide does not fit upside down, just the throttle plate  (vacuum release plate) that fits into the roller slide. How does the seal between the vacuum release plate and the roller slide look?


 



Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i've reverted back to the stock jetting and CE back on untill i/We can solve this issue, ill place a 100 pilot air jet on order in the mean time, how can i verify the AP im pretty new to the whole Carb modding thing, the seal between the plate is super thin and a little worse for ware, so might order a new plate and seal, slide is installed correctly on mine then according to your info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AP is checked by removing the carb and operating the throttle and looking for AP spray.  A new seal might be worth it but the vacuum release plate is expensive.  Don't buy unless you need it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AP spray is fine then, is this the thing people often referr to as having an ideal squirt time? if so, mine takes about 3 seconds which i'm assuming is pretty long....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...