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2005 Coolant in frame mod

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Hello & before I get flamed yes I have used the search, I have been looking for days for information on this but have not had any success. In regards to if it can be done on a 2005

Last week after riding for the day I checked my coolant and it was below the fins so I must have dumped some on the ground during the day, most likely a bit here and there as it was a stop and start kinda day, lots of hill climb with some beginners (still a great day)

I searched and found the turkey baster mod which I have completed and it's seems to work well, collecting overflow when hot and putting it back in the rads when the bike is cooling.

Has anyone completed the coolant in frame mod on a 2005 as this looks very cool and once done very little can go wrong.

I have only been able to find one pic of this mod & that was on a 2002

I would like info & pics for this mod please or what sections of the frame are sealed that can be used?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/zg3AgsExZMjP2GEKg2QwRE8qJtRsR3VZkVCN4gwmIew-gJho01p_02iM6JvxZcEkFYp_8tBclv0o35AxtomS5YdDGVRnVXYOUmmxA52rbae10w=w443-h332-nc

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I searched and found the turkey baster mod which I have completed and it's seems to work well, collecting overflow when hot and putting it back in the rads when the bike is cooling.

 

I thought that I would post some pics of the Turkey Baster Mod ( I used a  syringe ) In case anybody else needed this mod.

It does work well in the fact that you won,t loose any coolant and when the bike cools down your rads are full again.

This mod will not make the bike run cooler.

 

I fixed the syringe to the frame with double sided tape and a couple of zip tys

 

The overflow hose from the syringe goes down the front of the right hand rad so any over flow from this drips onto the header and creates steam alerting me that I am overheating and to shut it down

cheers

 

IMG_46561.jpgIMG_46551.jpgIMG_46591.jpg

 

For some reason Thumper talk keeps rotating the photos If you turn your monitor :smashpc:  on its side all is good

And with the covers back on you can hardly tell, 

 

IMG_4670.JPGIMG_4671.JPGIMG_4672.JPG

 

Cheers

Edited by UHF2

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OR you could just make a catch bottle like on cars and streetbikes to allow it to siphon the coolant back in by itself.

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OR you could just make a catch bottle like on cars and streetbikes to allow it to siphon the coolant back in by itself.

That's exactly what he has done.

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That's exactly what he has done.

+1

 

I,m think that I could use the bottom rails under the engine as a catchment tank, If i brought screw and barb hose fittings and screwed them into the engine guard screw holes on the frame I could use the right side as the intake from the radiator and the left side as the breather running the tubes up the side of the front frame, this way It would cost less than $5 with no thread tapping or drilling into the frame.

I don't use those threads / nuts on the frame because my skid plate mounts from the front.

 

Thoughts ?

 

cheers

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+1

I,m think that I could use the bottom rails under the engine as a catchment tank, If i brought screw and barb hose fittings and screwed them into the engine guard screw holes on the frame I could use the right side as the intake from the radiator and the left side as the breather running the tubes up the side of the front frame, this way It would cost less than $5 with no thread tapping or drilling into the frame.

I don't use those threads / nuts on the frame because my skid plate mounts from the front.

Thoughts ?

cheers

I don't have that old of a bike to be sure, but I think the mount guard bolt threads are in a solid casting with a blind threaded hole that doesn't protrude into the (hollow) frame tubes like you're thinking they do. Also, hotter aluminum is weaker than colder aluminum. Good idea though.

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I don't have that old of a bike to be sure, but I think the mount guard bolt threads are in a solid casting with a blind threaded hole that doesn't protrude into the (hollow) frame tubes like you're thinking they do. Also, hotter aluminum is weaker than colder aluminum. Good idea though.

I thought about what you posted about the heat and hotter aluminium is weaker than colder aluminium so I decided to see if the 2005 is sealed in the down rail.Because it would hold more coolant and not heat up as much. I had read that it was not sealed in the 2005 and later models. Mine is sealed and i think that it would hold about 700mm of coolant.

I won,t get time to finish it today but the below pic is of the Coolant Hose that connects to the radiator overflow.

I will most likely fit the breather to the right hand side than run the breather hose onto the header

IMG_4681.JPG

Edited by UHF2

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I thought about what you posted about the heat and hotter aluminium is weaker than colder aluminium so I decided to see if the 2005 is sealed in the down rail.Because it would hold more coolant and not heat up as much. I had read that it was not sealed in the 2005 and later models. Mine is sealed and i think that it would hold about 700mm of coolant.

I won,t get time to finish it today but the below pic is of the Coolant Hose that connects to the radiator overflow.

I will most likely fit the breather to the right hand side than run the breather hose onto the header

📎IMG_4681.JPG

Well I,ve finished the mod and it works well. With the bike back together you cannot see any of the fittings ,except for the overflow hose from radiator is full of coolant. all of the fittings (2 of them) are protected by the radiator and clutch cable

it is reasurring to know that when I am out on the trails and the bike starts puking coolant all I have to do is let the bike cool and the radiator will be full again ready to go.

The coolant in frame mod does work with a CRF 450R 2005

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Edited by UHF2

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i think its pretty cool

good job

 

 

ive always wanted to put fuel in the spars.........

Thanks

I was worried that all the coolant would leak out of the bottom rails because that had happened to someone else ,and that was the only information that I could find about the 2005 model

I am thinking of doing the fuel in the spars As well. I sick of having to carry spare fuel in a back pack when we do the long rides. and wondering if I,m going to be riding back or pushing.

if I do it I would only use the spars as a reserve tank on the longer rides and put in a on/ off tap on the line to the main fuel line.

I have researched it and I beleave it would be easy and cost less than $ 10.00 AU

That's about 50cents U.S. :foul:

Edited by UHF2

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Well I,ve finished the mod and it works well. With the bike back together you cannot see any of the fittings ,except for the overflow hose from radiator is full of coolant. all of the fittings (2 of them) are protected by the radiator and clutch cable

it is reasurring to know that when I am out on the trails and the bike starts puking coolant all I have to do is let the bike cool and the radiator will be full again ready to go.

The coolant in frame mod does work with a CRF 450R 2005

Do you have any more pics of fitting locations and hose routing? I have an 05 so it should work the same

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Do you have any more pics of fitting locations and hose routing? I have an 05 so it should work the same

 

Hello Jblob

I don,t have many pics of this, I don,t know y I usually  take lots of pics.

I,ve drilled and tapped into the left hand side of the front square down tube of the frame. Make sure you drill above the weld. The reason I drilled the left side was  the hose from the radiator overflow would be a smooth arc. Depending on how your coolant overflow comes out you could drill the right side if you liked.

Than I drilled a smaller hole at the top in the y section of the frame and JB welded a barbed fitting as this is the overflow for the catchment tank .I ran the overflow hose down behind the radiator and out onto my skid plate.

There is a small breather hole in the frame that you have to seal. I used a two part glue for this. It is above the coil where the rails that hold the fuel tap meet the main frame.

At first i drilled a small hole where the bottom hose goes into the frame and used a swinge to inject coolant into the frame just to be sure there were not any leaks & the frame was sealed inside

I will look for more pics when i get home from work and post them.

 

 

IMG_4676.JPGIMG_4678.JPGIMG_4681.JPGCoolant over flow.jpg

Edited by UHF2

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Ahhh I see. I wasn't getting that the upper hose was the overflow for the "catch tank" frame tube and was trying to figure out where it tied in

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Where can I get the 90 degree fittings? I've only been able to find them with a 3/8" hose barb which is too big of diameter for the overflow hoses.

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Where can I get the 90 degree fittings? I've only been able to find them with a 3/8" hose barb which is too big of diameter for the overflow hoses.

Hello I bought my from the local hydraulic shop

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seems like a lot of work/risk for not much of a reward.  rad fluid in the frame?? wow.

 

the bike will run just fine on 3/4 of a rad worth of fluid.

 

ive got the vapor computer, so when I start getting near 120C ill stop and take a break.

 

even when it does boil over.  3x in the last 5 years, its a handful of water that can be replaced from the water in my backpack.... why cant yours???

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seems like a lot of work/risk for not much of a reward.  rad fluid in the frame?? wow.

the bike will run just fine on 3/4 of a rad worth of fluid.

ive got the vapor computer, so when I start getting near 120C ill stop and take a break.

even when it does boil over.  3x in the last 5 years, its a handful of water that can be replaced from the water in my backpack.... why cant yours???

High comp piston + 100-degree temps + 90% humidity + tight single track mountain trails… all add up to boil overs for me.  And at $40 a gallon, Engine Ice is too expensive to leave on the ground.  I have the turkey baster mod and it works great, but I would just as soon not have it hanging off of my radiator hoses.  The frame mod looks much cleaner.

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