New plated drz-e owner here, have some questions.

[espacef1fan]

Just got my hands on a 2000 DRZ-E with a plate. It has lots of goodies but needs some love and some improvements to improve its street usability.

I'm looking to add better lighting as its main upgrades.

I'm thinking of adding a procycle dualsport harness and using their crash worthy turn signals along with a trail tech X2 headlight.

I'm looking for a brighter taillight than what I have though, it's quite dim.

I'm considering adding a powerbomb header but wonder if it's worth $180.

Anyone have suggestions for better parts than I listed or some alternate approaches?

Here is a few pictures of it:

[Kenstone]

Just got my hands on a 2000 DRZ-E with a plate. It has lots of goodies but needs some love and some improvements to improve its street usability.

I'm looking to add better lighting as its main upgrades.

I'm thinking of adding a procycle dualsport harness and using their crash worthy turn signals along with a trail tech X2 headlight.

I'm looking for a brighter taillight than what I have though, it's quite dim.

I'm considering adding a powerbomb header but wonder if it's worth $180.

Anyone have suggestions for better parts than I listed or some alternate approaches?

Here is a few pictures of it:

Nice

Because of it's age, I suggest you poke around, looking  stuff that may have been neglected, like valve adjustment, swing-arm/linkage grease, chain/chain guide, etc.

I recently installed a Tusk lighting kit on a CRF250x and it is a quality kit, something you might want to look at.

?

[Noble]

I'm thinking of adding a procycle dualsport harness-----Many options here.  You already have some kind of a dual sort kit so I do not know if rolling your own, staying with what you have or the Procycle is better.

 

and using their crash worthy turn signals------OK

 

a trail tech X2 headlight.-----  OK.  Existing headlight definitely could use an upgrade

I'm looking for a brighter taillight than what I have though, it's quite dim.-------Should not be dim.  Look for a problem.  Maybe wired wrong.

I'm considering adding a powerbomb header but wonder if it's worth $180.------Its is not.

or some alternate approaches?------As mentioned above, look it over good and service it.  A 17 year old motorcycle you are dealing with wear and tear plus what previous owners have done to it both good and bad.

[jjktmrider]

If you want the tailight brighter you can replace the bulb with a higher lumen LED (not all are brighter than oem) and run some LED strips(adhesive back) across the top of the lens , one goes one with the regular tailight ,another strip comes on with the brake . I'm putting them on every bike I have slowly to add a bunch of visibility but no sticking out cosmetically. I do the same with the turn signal , really adds to help the cages see me better.

 

Also do some shopping around for parts , Procycle isn't exactly the cheapest source out there .

 

 

The pivot bolt for the swingarm should be removed ASAP and coated with anti-seize if it isn't already corroded.

Edited January 17, 2016 by jjktmrider

[matchoo]

I'm in the same boat. Got a 2002 E a few weeks ago. Had and still has its little issues. Big ones left are bright head and tail lights. Looking forward to opinions on bright aftermarket tail lights. For head lights I think I'll just use some eBay LED pods.

[brentchula]

Consider looking at a HID kit, there are plenty of them sold for the DRZ that have high and low beam in 1 bulb - built in actuator. Just be careful, they'll destroy your battery in a jiffy and that goes doubly for the 55W Kit. 35W is plenty bright, that's what I've got on my 2008SM. May be a good idea to toss a kill switch in there that way you chose when your light is off/on.

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/HIDBIKESINGLEHILO $37

Tail light...I've got a Yoshi Fender Eliminator on my SM. They aren't the cheapest at $130 or so but that rear LED is bright as hell. Says it fits 2000+ so you both should be good. There's another tail light called the "MotoLED Edge 2" or something along those lines, not sure if the fitment is any different on an E but some research should tell you if it's compatible. I don't see why not, Z's haven't changed much - they're too damn awesome. Here's the link.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/252148127927?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Wouldn't stress to much the turn signals in a crash...dirt or street they're pretty tight to the body. I swapped my turn signals out for LED ones, $12 on Amazon (that's for 4 of them). They look nice, small, bright, and best of all they're super cheap. I had to do a little Dremel work to make the OEM plastic inserts work but there are some LED mounting brackets on eBay that are made for front/rear on the DRZ, I think the brand is actually "DRC"

Good luck! Happy modding! Toss a pic up when you're done.

[Anthon Berg]

I'd keep the E header - it's already about as wide as the FMF header. (If you change anything about the exhaust, it would be to bring noise down e.g. with an FMF muffler if you have one of those E mufflers that are noisy - or to drop weight, I'm not sure how heavy the E muffler is ... I'd just leave the exhaust alone)

 

I'd DEFINITELY and FOR SURE work on the suspension! Respring and revalve. Even if you do a dedicated offroad revalve, it still makes the bike behave better on the street.

 

A LiFePO4 battery makes for nice weight savings. You can definitely feel the weight loss. Consider new handlebars too, depending how you like the ergos/cockpit setup - at least the S's stock bars are quite low and back-swept which I didn't like.

 

Re. headlight - I like the lightweight KTM-style headlights, either original KTM/Husaberg, Enduro Engineering, or an EBay copy, plus a Cyclops LED bulb. Very lightweight and good light output. Mostly because I don't like the look of the Trailtech X2 ?

 

Def. have the wheels balanced, especially for the street!

[espacef1fan]

Well I Couldnt wait any longer so I bought some parts, HAHA.

 

I got some new tires IRC VE35 front and a Kenda Trakmaster 2 rear

I ordered the trailtech x2 head light because I feel it updates the look of the bike a bit. I got the white shroud for it

I got the procycle dualsport kit sans headlight to gain turn signal switches and a low high beam switch. AND A KEYED IGNITION SWITCH. Ill compare the taillight it comes with to see how bright it is in comparison to what I have now.

I need to get the Trailtech endurance speedometer working, It came installed but isnt working so I need to figure that out still

I still need to figure out the sprocket sizes and order a new chain and sprocket set, this one has kinks and a little rust.

 

I also need to change all of the fluids.(oil/coolant/brake fluid)

I will be pulling everything apart to lubricate and clean it(including suspension linkage)

I plan on checking valve clearance if only to get a baseline measurement as he couldnt tell me what it was last time he checked

 

As for the suspension allegedly it has racetech valving and springs for a 200lb rider. Ill see how it does this summer and maybe do a suspension overhaul this winter.

 

I'll update this thread with pictures tomorrow or atleast later this week.

 

Thanks for all of the advice and suggestions. Seriously.

[espacef1fan]

Oh is there a downloadable version of the owners manual and service manual?

[wdswkr22]

My e came road legal with a Baja kit already installed. I have played with the gearing some, not much room there. If you get the bike comfortable on the road chances are you won't like it in the woods, or for trail use. I'm currently back to stock on the sprockets 14/47. It's just ok on the road, but not really low enough off road. Suzuki dropped the ball on internal ratios I think.

I bought the bike to be a road legal woods bike, but it's probably better at being a light dual sport that does woods roads ok. Tight trails just aren't it's thing imo.

[Anthon Berg]

As for the suspension allegedly it has racetech valving and springs for a 200lb rider. Ill see how it does this summer and maybe do a suspension overhaul this winter.

 

You should be fine then! Actually, even if you're less than 200lbs, I think you're in a better position to make use of the clickers than if you had the stock suspension. The uncontrolled high-speed damping ought to be fixed on your bike. Just set the sag and try it out.

(Very important, incidentally! Set the sag if you haven't!! It's a subtle but important thing that tends to get overlooked!)

 

 

My e came road legal with a Baja kit already installed. I have played with the gearing some, not much room there. If you get the bike comfortable on the road chances are you won't like it in the woods, or for trail use. I'm currently back to stock on the sprockets 14/47. It's just ok on the road, but not really low enough off road. Suzuki dropped the ball on internal ratios I think.

I bought the bike to be a road legal woods bike, but it's probably better at being a light dual sport that does woods roads ok. Tight trails just aren't it's thing imo.

 

The Yamaha WR450 has the same flaw - 5-speed box, even closer ratios afaik - and people like to gear them high-ish and put Rekluse clutches in to soften 1st gear in tight trails - see e.g. here: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/myth-of-the-light-weight-adventure-bike-for-dirt-and-adv-riding.870633/

Edited January 18, 2016 by Anthon Berg

[espacef1fan]

I knew about the gearing issue, but I was ok with it as this isnt my only bike. I have a Triumph bonneville(with Kenda K761s for dirtwood, or occasionally woods use...HAHA) that I use on a daily basis for road use.

 

I wanted the E so I had a better dirtbike to start with than a S bike. It was cheaper to make the E streetable than the S woods worthy, My intended use is maybe 60mph cruise for 30-60 minutes at a  time at most to get to the woods...then playing there all day and riding home later. So It doesnt need to have great gearing, just livable. Its my understanding the DRZ engine will tolerate constant high revs better than my hands,feet, and ass will so long as it has fresh oil.

 

Incedentally I almost ended up with a plated 09 wr450F before this DRZ fel into my lap for $2100. I was also looking at KTM RFS bikes and Huskys too. Im not a racer though just want a goof off in the woods bike that has enough power to scare myself. Thats this bike.  Found out it does roll on wheelies in third gear on pavement on the way home. Power requirement fullfilled, haha.

[espacef1fan]

Well poked around on it tonight, okay I mostly dank a few beers in the garage. I learned it has 14/44 gearing. Time to change it up.

 

Stock on the DRZ E is 14/47 if I recall correctly. Is there any advantage to going to 13/44 as opposed to 14/47 for geometry or chain guide/slider life?? 

 

I only need to be able to cruise at about 60-65 without throwing a rod/bouncing off the rev limiter. 

 

I guess I need to do  search on here and see what the hot setups are

[espacef1fan]

How is the stock E 14/47 gearing on the trail? looking at spread sheets its likely those most I could live with on the road given the distance to my riding areas.

[wdswkr22]

14/47 will let you do 55-60 ok, 14/45 or 46 is better.

I had 13/47 on my e when I bought it and the bike had virtually no miles on it. I didn't like that at all, to low for the road. I went to 14/45 then once I put some miles on and the bike seemed to roll easier went back to the 47 rear. Which is what's on it now.

[espacef1fan]

How is 14/47 in the woods, any time it's not low enough?

[wdswkr22]

It would be better if it was lower, but you can do it with some clutching.

I think the 14 tooth is more efficient than the 13, that's why I choose to play with gearing keeping the 14 on the front.

[wdswkr22]

It would be better if it was lower, but you can do it with some clutching.

I think the 14 tooth is more efficient than the 13, that's why I choose to play with gearing keeping the 14 on the front.

[espacef1fan]

Sounds like14/47 isnt too bad then, I dont ride really tight stuff yet, atleast not super regularly. 14/47 is also stock so I might be able to find a good deal on that setup ill give it a shot.

[CaptCapsize]

My plated 2006 DRZ-E needed a new street legal wiring and I used the Tusk harness kit and switches,  Nice quality for the price.  The headlight had a melted lens so I couldn't see more than 30 feet at night.  For a headlight I looked at the X2 but chose the Acerbis Cyclops.  It looks weird but it really lights the road up well even on low beam.  I have the Edge taillight, but feel it is a little dim for brake and taillight.   I used cheap LED turn signals and keep breaking them off.  Lost one at Slickrock UT, another at Sipapu, and also TorC NM.   I should have bought  better turn signals at least for the rear.  It would have been cheaper in the long run.

 

Mine came with 13/47 gearing and it would tractor up almost anything, but was wearing on the chain slider.   I have read it can eventually wear into the swing arm.  When the Aluminum rear sprocket wore out I just put Stock E gears (14/47) with a new chain. The 14/47 needs a little more clutch but is better on the highway to get to the dirt.  

 

I also added a Acerbis 3.7 gallon tank.  It fits the DRZ-E frame well.  With the dual petcock approach you can use one side as reserve.  It also allows you to use all the gas providing good range between fill up.  

 

The stock E pipe works well enough for me. 

Edited January 19, 2016 by CaptCapsize