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Is a hot start cable needed? Please help

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What's up thumper talk! So recently was cleaning out my carb and when I was taking it apart my hot start cable broke off inside the carb ..the plastic threads are stuck inside

***see picture***

Anyway I was wondering if I could just cut that cable and silicone the gap/hole closed so it's air and water tight.

I never use my hot start and really hope I can just seal the whole shut and get going bc I have a race Sunday (6 days) !!!

Thanks TT

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I've never understood why they made those plastic. Anyway if you leave the plunger in there and have a way of keeping it from moving up you should be fine.

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Let me clarify. I'm saying take the cable off and leave the plunger in the carby. Just need something to keep tension on it is all. And to seal it as you said.

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Chances are, no, it will not work. That 'nut' that holds the hot start spring and plunger in must be tight.

Aftermarket ones are billet. But one.

Ok, what I did about a week ago was glue that black piece down to try to seal it from air/water etc.. and I took the bike out yesterday for a ride and I noticed when I landed from jumping on the gas it would hesitate almost like it could be a jetting issue or maybe the fuel screw not in the proper place because it also would not idle unless the choke was out, but then it would idle high on the rpms.

My guess was that this hot start cable maybe was sucking in air if not sealed properly and was causing to much air to mix causing bad throttle response and idle issues?

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Let me clarify. I'm saying take the cable off and leave the plunger in the carby. Just need something to keep tension on it is all. And to seal it as you said.

Cool so just seal around the plunger then right? That's what I tried to do if you read my respond above but I don't think I fully sealed around the plunger so I'm going to take the carb out and make sure to get a good seal. In case air was getting in causing bad throttle response and no idle.

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Cool so just seal around the plunger then right? That's what I tried to do if you read my respond above but I don't think I fully sealed around the plunger so I'm going to take the carb out and make sure to get a good seal. In case air was getting in causing bad throttle response and no idle.

The springs job is to keep the plunger down until the cable is pulled, but it doesn't work without the cap, you need to replace the cap, but since you have a race coming up, try rigging something up to keep the plunger pressed down. Just make sure you don't damage the threads or anything. You won't cause any harm to the bike as long as the plunger doesn't move from it's fully down position(and you don't cause any harm to the bike in the process lol). I'd take the remaining pieces of the threads from the cap to a low's or hardware store to try to get it matched and plug the hole with a bolt with the spring and plunger inside. 

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It seems like it would be easier just to fix it

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The springs job is to keep the plunger down until the cable is pulled, but it doesn't work without the cap, you need to replace the cap, but since you have a race coming up, try rigging something up to keep the plunger pressed down. Just make sure you don't damage the threads or anything. You won't cause any harm to the bike as long as the plunger doesn't move from it's fully down position(and you don't cause any harm to the bike in the process lol). I'd take the remaining pieces of the threads from the cap to a low's or hardware store to try to get it matched and plug the hole with a bolt with the spring and plunger inside.

Cool man thanks for the advice that makes sense now forsure about the spring keeping the plunger down, do you think that could of possibly been messing with the throttle response and idle? Or could that be the fuel/air screw?

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It seems like it would be easier just to fix it

Plus, good luck to the o.p. when they crash/stall the bike when it is hot and they need to restart it with the rigged hot start. There is a reason that the hot start is there...

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Plus, good luck to the o.p. when they crash/stall the bike when it is hot and they need to restart it with the rigged hot start. There is a reason that the hot start is there...

Lol I here ya, my only concern is the threads are broken off the hot start cap inside the carb so I can't take the cable or plunger out unless I really yanked it out with some pliers :huh:

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Ok, what I did about a week ago was glue that black piece down to try to seal it from air/water etc.. and I took the bike out yesterday for a ride and I noticed when I landed from jumping on the gas it would hesitate almost like it could be a jetting issue or maybe the fuel screw not in the proper place because it also would not idle unless the choke was out, but then it would idle high on the rpms.

My guess was that this hot start cable maybe was sucking in air if not sealed properly and was causing to much air to mix causing bad throttle response and idle issues?

A week ago is when you should of gotten the correct part so your bike would be 'right' in time for your race.

Too many people hack repair and end up with a worthless bike.

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A week ago is when you should of gotten the correct part so your bike would be 'right' in time for your race.

Too many people hack repair and end up with a worthless bike.

Lesson learned

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A week ago is when you should of gotten the correct part so your bike would be 'right' in time for your race.

Too many people hack repair and end up with a worthless bike.

If you have a minute what do you think I really need to order just the "screw" #39 or #'s 37,38,39 the cable is fine as far as I know, looking forward to getting home today to take it all apart and fixing it the right way

http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2005-yamaha-yz250f-yz250ft/o/m145329#sch521541

Edited by EbenDag

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Don't get the same plastic crap. There are many aftermarket aluminum ones because of this.

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Don't get the same plastic crap. There are many aftermarket aluminum ones because of this.

Forreal sucks it was plastic broke right off inside the carb easy. Any ideas on how to get the plastic piece that's inside the carb out? Because I can't pull the cable + plunger out, the threads are blocking it from coming out. Edited by EbenDag

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If you have a minute what do you think I really need to order just the "screw" #39 or #'s 37,38,39 the cable is fine as far as I know, looking forward to getting home today to take it all apart and fixing it the right way

http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2005-yamaha-yz250f-yz250ft/o/m145329#sch521541

Yes but... get an aftermarket on (like ZipTy sells for ample, there are many companies selling them)

http://www.ziptyracing.com/hot-start-carb-nut/

Do keep in mind they are very fine threads and easy to cross thread. I also put a tiny bit of ant-seize on the threads

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Yes but... get an aftermarket on (like ZipTy sells for ample, there are many companies selling them)

Do keep in mind they are very fine threads and easy to cross thread. I also put a tiny bit of ant-seize on the threads

Cool man thanks for all the help and everyone on TT really appreciate the advice!!

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Forreal sucks it was plastic broke right off inside the carb easy. Any ideas on how to get the plastic piece that's inside the carb out? Because I can't pull the cable + plunger out, the threads are blocking it from coming out.

Remove the lever and disconnect the cable at the bars. That should give you the 'working room' you need at the carb. Sometimes, a pair of fine needle nose pliers, inserted inside and then spread will grip it enough to unscrew it.

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