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Can I Use Car Oil In My 4T Engine?

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Hi, so I own a dirt bike and I do my regular oil changes usually after a gas tank because a thank lasts very long on my CRF150F. But the oil I use which is valvolines 4 stroke motorcycle oil. It's starting to get expensive (not really but just saying) and Walmart sells 5 quarts of oil which is pretty cheap like about $20 the problem is, this isn't oil that is designed for motorcycles it's just car oil I would assume. I was looking at SuperTech's Motor Oil, because that's what my friend uses but he's always cheap and that's the thing. And I was also looking at Valvolines High Max and Premium Conventional oil. I just wanted to see what difference these oils would make and which one would be the best for my preference driving a dirt bike for 6 hours on a ride, and what would be cheap. Thanks

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Phosphate and zinc additives are being removed from auto oils so you risk damage to your cam and followers/rockers.  Auto oils are also not designed for use with a wet clutch.

 

All that being said we have used Shell Rotella T6 and Chevron Delo 400 with success in the past.

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Do you have a manual?? If you do, read it. I'll bet you'll see in big bold letter DO NOT USE RESOURCE CONSERVING OIL..... Aka automotive oil.... You can research the reasons why or somebody will chime in with the reasons. If your gonna be cheap.. Sell the bike. Hate to say it man but this isn't a cheap sport to play with.. Also only use full synthetic

Edited by Emkjr93

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Phosphate and zinc additives are being removed from auto oils so you risk damage to your cam and followers/rockers. Auto oils are also not designed for use with a wet clutch.

All that being said we have used Shell Rotella T6 and Chevron Delo 400 with success in the past.

+1 on this rottella / diesel oil is safe . To use. I I go on Amazon to buy oil prices are good for mx oil there especially castrol

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Do you have a manual?? If you do, read it. I'll bet you'll see in big bold letter DO NOT USE RESOURCE CONSERVING OIL..... Aka automotive oil.... You can research the reasons why or somebody will chime in with the reasons. If your gonna be cheap.. Sell the bike. Hate to say it man but this isn't a cheap sport to play with.. Also only use full synthetic

i do have a manual and it only says the grade of oil for me to use

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In most Wal-Marts you can usualy find either of these at a very decent price :

 

-Castrol 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil, JASO rated

-Shell Rotella 15W-40 Diesel engine oil, which is also JASO rated (motorcycle wet clutch compatible)

 

Rotella 15W-40 is very commonly used in dirt bikes engines and gearboxes.

 

The 15W-40 will be slightly thicker when cold but the same viscosity when warm / hot than the 10W-40,

not an issue unless you ride in near or below freezing weather, where starting the engine might be a little more difficult.

Edited by mlatour

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Few if any 10W-40 are resource conserving. Check the API circle on the back of the bottle. I use car oil ALL THE TIME in my two stroke gear box/clutch as well as a motor/clutch lubricant in my four stroke. Nary a problem. 

 

Do not skip grades and buy the popular 0W-20 or 5W-20 automotive oriented higher fuel economy emphasized oils. The are resource conserving and not recommended per your owner's manual. 

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Few if any 10W-40 are resource conserving. Check the API circle on the back of the bottle. I use car oil ALL THE TIME in my two stroke gear box/clutch as well as a motor/clutch lubricant in my four stroke. Nary a problem.

Do not skip grades and buy the popular 0W-20 or 5W-20 automotive oriented higher fuel economy emphasized oils. The are resource conserving and not recommended per your owner's manual.

most say energy conserving which I believe is the same thing. Right? I know if you look at Royal purple 10w-30 you'll see energy conserving for certain.

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most say energy conserving which I believe is the same thing. Right? I know if you look at Royal purple 10w-30 you'll see energy conserving for certain.

Yes, same thing. Check the 10W-40. Believe they can't remove those additives while also allowing it to remain in viscosity. I use any name brand conventional oil without concern. 

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Yes, same thing. Check the 10W-40. Believe they can't remove those additives while also allowing it to remain in viscosity. I use any name brand conventional oil without concern.

I'll double check them when I go to the store today. I'm hoping your right and it's only like that for the 10w30

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I hope I don't confuse anyone but I successfully run Mobil 1 15/50 full synthetic car oil in all my bikes. No clutch slip even with a CRF230-250cc built motor. Only slightly stiffer clutch springs than stock. I couldn't even get my Hayabusa clutch to slip. Every time I tried the rear tire would fry into a smoke cloud. :devil:  

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I'm sure the Mobil 1 15W-50 is fine,

but the OP is looking for economical choices easily available at Wal-Mart.

 

This is also a common debate: using a higher quality oil left in service longer,

or using lesser priced but good performing oil, drained and replaced at shorter intervals.

 

Keeping in mind a CRF150F doesn't have an oil filter.

Edited by mlatour

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Sure it does.... Just like the 230f does...

It appears that's it's made from screen door wire.

Lol

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If he wants cheep from Wall Mart then Rotilla in a 5gallon bucket is your best bang for the buck. The sell it in 2.5 gallon and 1 gallon sizes also. The larger the size the cheaper it is. By the quart is the most expensive option.

Tractor Supply has it also.

Edited by adnohguy

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Schrub's comments about viscosity is good guidance.  The prob with oils are the EPA requirements for fuel mileage and protecting catalytic converter from damage by some oil additives. So car oils contain anti friction additives for mileage that can cause clutch damage, and removed some anti wear additives that help flat tappet cams to protect the catalytic converter.  

Stock cams are prob not at risk but high lift ones are. 

 

As schrub said few of the 10W-40  oils will be "Energy Conserving", and the 15W-40 and thicker oils are almost always safe but you gotta read the labels. For an engine that shares crankcase oil with the tranny/clutch you also need to find an oil that will not damage the clutch, JASO-MA rated oils are for wet clutches.

 

+1 on this rottella / diesel oil is safe . To use. I I go on Amazon to buy oil prices are good for mx oil there especially castrol

Yes they are safe but Megacycle Cams told me that the EPA exemption allowing anti wear additives has expired. Because of a high lift cam in my XR I've switched from Rotella to Redline Motorcycle and Motul 300V for the ester synthetic base oil and anti wear additives. They are also JASO-MA for wet clutch.

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. For an engine that shares crankcase oil with the tranny/clutch you also need to find an oil that will not damage the clutch, JASO-MA rated oils are for wet clutches.

Have read that many car oils in 10w40 would meet jaso ma but simply forgoe the certification because most consumers don't consider it for our boutique use in a motorcycle.

Most car oil users don't consider the thicker weights due to concerns of fuel economy or winter time cold engine protection at start up. However, 10w40 recommended down into the lower 20s F.

Good tip on the oem vs high end cam spec.

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Hi, so I own a dirt bike and I do my regular oil changes usually after a gas tank because a thank lasts very long on my CRF150F. But the oil I use which is valvolines 4 stroke motorcycle oil. It's starting to get expensive

 

the solution is very simple and safe: there is no need to change oil after a gas tank. it's a waste of time and money, not a cheap insurance as sometimes we read.

manual says every 1000km, a good motorcycle oil every 500km/300miles is more than enough.

my 230f has more than 500hr, 80% dirt + 20% road at moderate pace. i put 100% sinth oil every 1000km and clean the air filter often. i'm still waiting it starts drinking oil........   

Edited by 30x26

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