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XR650L - Starting woes, officially stumped...

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Hi All,

 

I'm new to Thumper Talk - have been coming here and searching and reading for years and it has been immensely helpful. So kudos to this forum and the help provided.

 

I'm writing this because I can't find a solution after searching through these forums. Maybe the answer is here and I haven't found it, so sorry in advance if you've already put in the hard work of answering it. Just let me know where to look and I'll read it.

 

Situation:

 

2002 XR650L, FMF slip-on, DynoJetted, Smog apparatus removed, Clarke tank. 

 

I had starting woes about a year ago and through this forum figured out that it was my CDI. So I rebuilt/repaired it and bought a new one. After that, great starting.

 

I didn't ride much this fall and the bike sat a bit although I did start it from time to time. At one point, it would only start with choke engaged but not run after warm up. If I disengaged the choke, it would not run.

 

I had been expecting to re-build the carb because of some issues like float valve sticking open etc. and did so this past weekend. It really needed the rebuild - I cleaned everything very well and made sure all orifices were clean. When we put it all back together and flipped on the petcock, the dang float was stuck open and gas came out the drain. So we fiddled with that and it stopped.

 

When we put it all back together, it was a bit rough starting, but always fired on every crank - just took a bit to get it to stay running. Had to baby it, but it warmed up fast and ran like a scaled rat. A simple twist was lifting the front 6" or more off the ground. So power I haven't had in a long time. 

 

One thing I noticed - when starting for the first time, choke wasn't effective at all. I adjusted it a while back, but maybe it's whacked out. Or maybe I lost an o-ring? 

 

Went out last night to give it a good crank and run and it wouldn't start for anything. I got one crank to produce ignition, but that was it. I cranked and cranked, but nothing. Checked the spark and it seems to be fairly healthy - I don't suspect spark issues. 

 

I'll go home tonight and play around with the air intake and see what's happening fuel wise. Ultimately, it seems that I'm down to fuel and air at this point. Timing won't change and I feel that the spark is strong.

 

But essentially - stumped. 

 

Any thoughts?

 

Cheers,

Steve

 

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Clean the contacts in the RUN/STOP switch.

Thanks for the reply.

 

I already did that too - used some Caig Deoxit D5. What functions does it control? If I'm getting good spark, is that enough to tell me that the starting switch is good?

Edited by Stevo_23

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Yes, switch just controls the spark.

 

Maybe the spark is a bit weak? Bad resistor in the plug cap?

 

Carb fully seated in front boot?

 

Enrichener slide on the end of the 'choke' cable seating fully?

 

You can try shutting off the gas, draining the bowl, shut the drain, try starting after letting a little gas at a time into the bowl.

 

If someone swapped out the pilot jet, maybe they used the long one and the slosh baffle is blocking it? The correct short one sits down in the well.

 

Is the little brass thing that the slide needle seats into at the bottom of the bore in place?

 

Is the needle in the slide fully seated, or maybe it is riding a bit high in the slide?

 

Maybe the valves are a bit tight?

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Yes, switch just controls the spark.

 

Maybe the spark is a bit weak? Bad resistor in the plug cap?

 

Carb fully seated in front boot?

 

Enrichener slide on the end of the 'choke' cable seating fully?

 

You can try shutting off the gas, draining the bowl, shut the drain, try starting after letting a little gas at a time into the bowl.

 

If someone swapped out the pilot jet, maybe they used the long one and the slosh baffle is blocking it? The correct short one sits down in the well.

 

Is the little brass thing that the slide needle seats into at the bottom of the bore in place?

 

Is the needle in the slide fully seated, or maybe it is riding a bit high in the slide?

 

Maybe the valves are a bit tight?

In order:

 

I don't know how to tell if a spark is weak other than it's the strongest spark I've seen in a long time.

 

I did think about the choke cable not being seated correctly - I can easily re-do that tonight if I'm in the mood to get out in my cold garage...

 

I did try the draining the bowl trick.

 

What is the slosh baffle? The plastic thing that sits on top?

 

The brass seat is in place - brand new and shiny.

 

Could check the needle seat-ment. It points to getting back into the carb.

 

Valves aren't or can't be any tighter than they were when it was running I don't think.

 

Dave - thanks for your suggestions. All of this sounds like I need to focus on fuel feed.

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Slosh baffle is plastic thing that goes around the main jet.

In this pic you can see the long pilot jet, the baffle can wiggle enough to cover the pilot jet.

 

14069988-L.jpg

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Slosh baffle is plastic thing that goes around the main jet.

In this pic you can see the long pilot jet, the baffle can wiggle enough to cover the pilot jet.

 

14069988-L.jpg

 

Thanks - I thought so. I did put it on correctly, but perhaps it jiggled loose as I reassembled it. I didn't go out last night to fiddle with it, but I will today. I'm going to try to pressure the fuel feed line a bit to dislodge something that might be stuck in there. I might also take off the bowl and mess about. All prior to fully removing the carb which is certainly something I'm prepared to do.

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Was the plug wet or dry ?  If the plug seems dry or you can't tell ,one of the first things I do is take a syringe with gas , mixed with a little 2 cycle oil for lube, and put a squirt down the plug hole, put the plug back in and try starting it. It'll fire up or stumble some if it's because no fuel is coming from the carb , if nothing happens it leads more to spark issue . A real quick and easy thing to get going in the right direction before tearing things apart. If the plug is visibly wet I either put in a new one or clear the plug with a torch to burn off any extra gas and spin the motor over with the throttle wide open.Also helps to squirt a tsp of motor oil down the plug hole to seal up the rings if the walls are washed off and spin the motor over slowly.

Edited by jjktmrider

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I something else to consider.  I found this on a bike I just bought yesterday.  Have a look at the picture at the end of this thread. https://thumpertalk.com/topic/1160338-if-it-werent-for-bad-luck-id-have-no-luck-at-all/page-2

 

The hardest part will be pulling the valve cover without taking the motor out of the frame.  The PO described a similar issue as yours.  It ran good until it didn't.   He said the power faded then it wouldn't start.  He didn't know how or have time to work on it so he put it up for sale.  I found the timing off by 20 plus degrees.  I'm still digging to see what else might be wrong.

 

Anyway just something else to check out.

 

Mark

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