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TTR230 hard to start when cold

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Hello,

 

I'm working on my neighbor's TTR230 and it is hard to start when cold.  It will drain the battery cranking unless you spray starting fluid in the box.  When warm, it starts fine.  Because of this, I can really only test one adjustment per day, then I have to wait for it to completely cool again haha.  Slow going.

 

I have gone through the carb a couple of times to ensure it's clean (it was very dirty from sitting).  Cleaned out the tank and fresh fuel.  I added the #38 pilot jet and adjusted the fuel (air?) screw to get it running good.  New air filter and I did not notice any obvious signs of a vacuum leak.  No airbox or exhaust mods, I left that and the main jet as-is (I think that's a 125 but whatever was in there is what's in there).  

 

I've searched this forum up and down and that's what allowed me to get the carb working as good as it is now but this hard start thing won't go away.  

 

Any ideas?  Thanks for the help.

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Be polite with the starting fluid, that's a great way to mess up an engine. (detonation)

 

I'm a 2-stroke guy but often read on the forum that mis-adjusted valves on a 4T make for a hard starting engine.

 

After a few un-successful cold start attempts, does it seem like gas is at least reaching the combustion chamber?

Did you check ignition timing? Try a new plug ? (may be shorted out but looks fine)

Did you do a compression test?   (worn-out / low compression makes for difficult starts)

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Be polite with the starting fluid, that's a great way to mess up an engine. (detonation)

 

I'm a 2-stroke guy but often read on the forum that mis-adjusted valves on a 4T make for a hard starting engine.

 

After a few un-successful cold start attempts, does it seem like gas is at least reaching the combustion chamber?

Did you check ignition timing? Try a new plug ? (may be shorted out but looks fine)

Did you do a compression test?   (worn-out / low compression makes for difficult starts)

 

Yes sir.  A tight valve will make starting very difficult if not impossible.

 

Float level also plays into it as it affects overall A/F ratio across all carb circuits.

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I will check the valve lash.  The bike runs great after you squirt it and start it.

 

 I was thinking the choke circuit might not be working so I swapped my own modded carb (38 pilot, 130 main, drilled cover off the air screw) and and the bike runs and starts great so I'm thinking the problem is in the neighbor's carb.  

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