Studding tires

[lethalweapon100]

Hi all.

Ive decided I might want to invest in studs to ride in winter. Here in NY theres not a whole lot of snow right now, just hard ground, and in some spots theres a few inches of snow and ice. Ive heard studs might pull out if they hit solid ground. What do you reccomend?

Is it possible to take the studs out once I'm done, too? To only use one set of tires?

[CBus660R]

Studs require a stud gun and once they're in, they're in.  Screws don't need special tools and can be removed when no longer needed.  GripStuds are actually a special type of screw and fall into the screw category as far as install and removal.  What exactly are you putting into your tire?

[lethalweapon100]

Studs require a stud gun and once they're in, they're in. Screws don't need special tools and can be removed when no longer needed. GripStuds are actually a special type of screw and fall into the screw category as far as install and removal. What exactly are you putting into your tire?

Im going to go with screws then. Id rather have removable screws.

I dont really know what im putting into my tires yet.

[CBus660R]

Kold Kutter ice screws work great in the front.  Depending on how aggressive you are, they may not stay in the rear.  They're really designed for ice racing, not trail riding and ice racing tires use a longer screw that goes all the way through the tire and into a liner.  That's why the rear tire can be an issue if you go with the shorter screws that don't go all the way through to a liner.  GripStuds work great, but they are about $100 per tire.  The nice thing is they really won't wear out.  The carbide tips will stay sharp for several years.  

[cdf450]

kold kutters are a waste of time and money in the rear.

 

special studs cost you an arm and a leg at nearly 2$ each x the 200 or so that you need for JUST a rear.

 

try to tapcon screw trick. bit of extra work, but well worth it.  cheap too.  can do front and rear for $50. will take you about six hours though. you can also use old tires for this.

[lethalweapon100]

kold kutters are a waste of time and money in the rear.

special studs cost you an arm and a leg at nearly 2$ each x the 200 or so that you need for JUST a rear.

try to tapcon screw trick. bit of extra work, but well worth it. cheap too. can do front and rear for $50. will take you about six hours though. you can also use old tires for this.

Whats the tapcon trick?

[jay bird1138]

My neighbor tried tapcons and he said it was better than the best day in the summer.

There are many threads about this, do a search. One was active a few days ago. Haven't seen it since then

[cdf450]

Whats the tapcon trick?

remove tire from rim

 

drill a tiny hole through each lug, so you can see from inside of the tire where to drill the screw.  1/8 drill bit is plenty

 

1/4 x 1 1/4 concrete screws screwed from the inside of the tire out.

 

cross thread a 1/4" nut on the concrete screw with an impact gun.

 

use an old inner tube, or go to a tire shop and ask for an old blown up tractor tube.  cut a 4" x 60" piece of rubber to go over the screw heads.

 

mount it and ride!

 

 

his voice is extremely annoying but the video is good:  

Edited January 23, 2016 by cdf450

[lethalweapon100]

drill a tiny hole through each lug, so you can see from inside of the tire where to drill the screw. 1/8 drillbit is plenty

1/4 x 1 1/4 concrete screws screwed from the inside of the tire out.

cross thread a 1/4" nut on the concrete screw with an impact gun.

use an old inner tube, or go to a tire shop and ask for an old blown up tractor tube. cut a 4" x 60" piece of rubber to go over the screw heads.

mount it and ride!

his voice is extremely annoying but the video is good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fz1Iln5CnEw

Watched that video and immediately posted on the Facebook pages for local riders ISO 2 used tires. Once we get some good deep snow you bet ill be ordering studs.

Edit: screws dammit. Not studs. My bad.

Edited January 23, 2016 by lethalweapon100

[cdf450]

take the tires off your rims now and use them.

 

order a brand new set for the summer and youre good to go.  thats what we all did.

 

10 cents each.  not bad at all:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/300-Phillips-Flat-Head-1-4-x-1-1-4-Concrete-Masonry-Screws-Tapcon-Anchor-Bit-/360858900828?hash=item5404ddd95c:g:SzoAAOxyd8NSat0v

 

I think we paid 20$ for 100 screws.  took 300 screws per bike.

 

cheap nuts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/500-1-4-20-HEX-NUT-GRADE-8-YELLOW-ZINC-500-PIECES-/231603021876?hash=item35ec9da834:g:T1AAAOSw3ydViq~v

 

nuts were dirt cheap too. its definitely time consuming, but very rewarding and feels good once youre done.

get a few of these guys for the front, and youre good to go for under $60 for 3~ years worth of winter riding!  weve only used them twice, and used them hard, and they still look almost brand new except for the blue paint is gone

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KOLD-KUTTER-TRACK-TIRE-TRACTION-ICE-RACING-STUDS-SCREWS-3-8-8-250-PACK-ATV-MX-/172056335265?hash=item280f5b53a1:g:cWsAAOxygLxSZw4J&vxp=mtr

Edited January 23, 2016 by cdf450

[cdf450]

[The Inquisitor]

I used the tap con method based on the video above. I've posted this in a lot of other threads about stud's but it' Friday night and I'm a bit bored and drinking some buds ?

 

here's a few tips and drivel....

 

Make sure you drill the holes straight into the knobs.

 

Use a long socket on an impact and really drive the nuts onto the screws. Having the straight holes and what you want to check is that heads of the screws are pulled in tight inside the tire. I did not notice this hence see below.

 

After my first right, I realized that I had flatted the rear at some point but really hadn't noticed cus i was running like 3 PSI with a UHD tube. I then got a new UHD tube. Took the old tube and sliced it open around the inside., wrapped it around the new tube and stuff them both in the tire and re-mounted. This was by no means fun doing BUT this point you can run 0 PSI.

 

I've got my studded tire's sitting in my kitchen waiting to mount up this year and was running my fingers around inside the tire and just figured out that some of the holes where not straight, hence the heads were not flush inside the tire, hence the original flat. I should have caught this earlier.

 

Anyway IMO this is a cheap but a bit of a time consuming way of studding up tires and giving them a try. There is another long topic about this but as long as the snow is not so deep and dense that the tires don't touch the ground or it so cold you don't want to ride, studded tires rock and you can ride all year round.

 

Here's some before and after pics. The studded pattern worked good for me. You can see where the nuts are not flush, hence the holes were not straigh and the after pic was after a few months with some riding on gravel roads. I'll flip it for this year BUT it's been raining for 2 solid weeks and most of my snow is almost gone.

 

 

 

Edited January 23, 2016 by filterx

[cdf450]

yes straight holes holes is very important!!  we learned that the hard way too.

[drtrcr400]

Just an fyi this also works great with Tubliss. My friends and I have been doing this for a few seasons now and it's simply amazing!

[lethalweapon100]

take the tires off your rims now and use them.

order a brand new set for the summer and youre good to go. thats what we all did.

10 cents each. not bad at all: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300-Phillips-Flat-Head-1-4-x-1-1-4-Concrete-Masonry-Screws-Tapcon-Anchor-Bit-/360858900828?hash=item5404ddd95c:g:SzoAAOxyd8NSat0v

I think we paid 20$ for 100 screws. took 300 screws per bike.

cheap nuts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/500-1-4-20-HEX-NUT-GRADE-8-YELLOW-ZINC-500-PIECES-/231603021876?hash=item35ec9da834:g:T1AAAOSw3ydViq~v

nuts were dirt cheap too. its definitely time consuming, but very rewarding and feels good once youre done.

get a few of these guys for the front, and youre good to go for under $60 for 3~ years worth of winter riding! weve only used them twice, and used them hard, and they still look almost brand new except for the blue paint is gone

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KOLD-KUTTER-TRACK-TIRE-TRACTION-ICE-RACING-STUDS-SCREWS-3-8-8-250-PACK-ATV-MX-/172056335265?hash=item280f5b53a1:g:cWsAAOxygLxSZw4J&vxp=mtr

Thats the thing, my tires already are brand new. They've got less than 2 full seasons on them

I used the tap con method based on the video above. I've posted this in a lot of other threads about stud's but it' Friday night and I'm a bit bored and drinking some buds ?

here's a few tips and drivel....

Make sure you drill the holes straight into the knobs.

Use a long socket on an impact and really drive the nuts onto the screws. Having the straight holes and what you want to check is that heads of the screws are pulled in tight inside the tire. I did not notice this hence see below.

After my first right, I realized that I had flatted the rear at some point but really hadn't noticed cus i was running like 3 PSI with a UHD tube. I then got a new UHD tube. Took the old tube and sliced it open around the inside., wrapped it around the new tube and stuff them both in the tire and re-mounted. This was by no means fun doing BUT this point you can run 0 PSI.

I've got my studded tire's sitting in my kitchen waiting to mount up this year and was running my fingers around inside the tire and just figured out that some of the holes where not straight, hence the heads were not flush inside the tire, hence the original flat. I should have caught this earlier.

Anyway IMO this is a cheap but a bit of a time consuming way of studding up tires and giving them a try. There is another long topic about this but as long as the snow is not so deep and dense that the tires don't touch the ground or it so cold you don't want to ride, studded tires rock and you can ride all year round.

Here's some before and after pics. The studded pattern worked good for me. You can see where the nuts are not flush, hence the holes were not straigh and the after pic was after a few months with some riding on gravel roads. I'll flip it for this year BUT it's been raining for 2 solid weeks and most of my snow is almost gone.

Sounds good, thanks for the advice.

[cdf450]

less than 2 full seasons and you claim theyre brand new?!?  something isnt right....  unless you only ride once per season for 15 minutes??  guys will go through 8 sets of tires in 2 full seasons...

 

2 rides on my bike and the rear tire has lost 50% of its bite/sharpness on the edge.

Edited January 23, 2016 by cdf450

[lethalweapon100]

less than 2 full seasons and you claim theyre brand new?!? something isnt right.... unless you only ride once per season for 15 minutes?? guys will go through 8 sets of tires in 2 full seasons...

2 rides on my bike and the rear tire has lost 50% of its bite/sharpness on the edge.

I ride in a lot of sand. They've got 2 seasons and they're just not that worn. Im not lying or making this up, ive got no reason to. They have at least 96% tread and they've barely even lost their edge.

[MT_Rider]

Grip studs work the best in my experience. They out last the tire and can be swapped to a new tire in about an hour.

Where in NY are you?

[lethalweapon100]

Grip studs work the best in my experience. They out last the tire and can be swapped to a new tire in about an hour.

Where in NY are you?

Around the saratoga area.

[The Inquisitor]

I ride in a lot of sand. They've got 2 seasons and they're just not that worn. Im not lying or making this up, ive got no reason to. They have at least 96% tread and they've barely even lost their edge.

You're lucky. The back tire in my pic was after about 20 riding hours of normal riding before snow, I could have flipped it for more rides but it snowed so I studded it.