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New crank shaft + conrod, piston kit and cylinder replate (import duty from US to Ireland?)

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Hi folks,

 

New member here, with a fairly wrecked 2001 KX250. I'm getting the cylinder replated and need a new crank and conrod, all bearings and oil seals and a full top end kit with a full gasket kit top and bottom as well.

 

I'm in Ireland and I've been pricing up the parts at different places, but I'm wondering about buying something like this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190906821126

 

Anybody rate these parts? It's telling me approx $90 import duty to Ireland, is that accurate? Is anybody here from this side of the water and have any experience or horror stories about buying parts from the States and getting stung for massive import duty?

 

Also need some other stuff, inner clutch basket, levers, expansion pipe, but that can wait for the time being.

 

Any advice much appreciated!

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Don't know about duty for those parts but many here will advocate that you source a Hot Rods crank instead of the Wiseco. OEM also good or have your rebuild with a new Pro X rod kit and main bearing. Can't purchase from RMATV? They have the rod kit and main bearing along with everything else. 

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Between the Wiseco crank and Namura piston you'd be lucky to get 30 hours out of it before you find new holes in the motor.  Sorry Shrub, I know you use Namura stuff.  I'm just saying...

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I had read a few places saying the Wiseco crank wasn't as good as the Hot Rods one... 30 hours though, that bad? I understand that Wiseco pistons are reasonably well respected though, is that true?

 

I've emailed RMATV to get a quote for shipping. The items alone from RMATV are $457 with no shipping or import duty (~$650 all in) instead of $417 all in from that ebay link... false economy, I know 🙂

 

Are the Wiseco crank and Namura really 30 hours bad?

 

Thanks

Edited by mcljot

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Wiseco cranks have an unacceptably high rate of failure.  They are cheaply made in China with poor materials and improper hardening.  They look like cranks but they're not up to the job.  They fail in many ways including some that would not be possible if these things were any good at all.  Namura pistons have come onto the market in the last few years and I have no solid info on them other than the fact that they're cheaper than anything else.  For a little more money you can get something a little more reputable.

 

Hot Rods has had some problems too.  Surely there is someone over there that can properly rebuild your crank? 

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Hmm doesn't sound great. Yes there are places that could rebuild my crank, dunno if mine is too far gone though. I have uploaded some pics to my Flickr of the cylinder and bottom end (not open yet), gearbox seems OK from turning the clutch basket by hand but I'm dreading what state the crank and cases are in.

 

Cylinder is rusty but not scored, not that I can catch with a nail. 

 

flickr.com/photos/alexmcleod/

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I've got a line on a complete bottom end off a 1997 bike. I've compared the exploded schematics and part numbers on the Kawasaki website and they seem to be mostly the same, but there are a few differences in part numbers. Could this just be superseded part numbers? Yes I've read the pinned post for newbies about looking at part diagrams but this one is puzzling me enough that I'm not confident in shelling out for this new engine. Will a 1997 bottom end fit my 2001 bike? 🙂

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The 97 and 01 are very similar.  The power valve actuator is different.  You could make it all work though.  Are you sure the 97 bottom end won't need as much work as the one you already have?

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Split my bottom end over the weekend, gearbox is perfect. Crank is fooked but I got another set of cases for cheap(ish) so won't have to bother with the old ones. Frame is off being powder coated black at the moment.

My parts list:
Crank
Bottom end bearings and seals
Cylinder replate
Wossner top end
Swingarm, linkage, steering and shock bearings
 
 
24740211685_6424e00c02_z.jpg
 
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The rust in the crankcase looks bad but theres nothing really seriously wrong with those cases from the pics.  Clean them, press in new main bearings and you are in business.  I bet the crank is rebuildable too.  Doesn't have to be pretty.  As long as the threads are still good on the ends you could clean it up and have it rebuilt. 

 

As long as everything is clean when you're putting it together that is all that matters.

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Well, unfortunately the threads on the flwheel end of the crank are fooked. Does that write off the crank or would a crank rebuilding shop just get a new complete half of the crank to reassemble with my original crank and conrod?

 

I'm getting the frame, subframe and swingarm back from the powdercoater's place in the next day or two so I can start reassembling the rolling chassis.

 

In the meantime I've got to clean up my gearbox, clutch plates, powervalve and crank cases cause there's loads of rubbish in and on them. I don't have a parts washer so I was thinking a bath in mineral spirits (white spirits over here) with a good soaking and brushing, followed by more mineral spirits, then maybe followed by compressed air or brake cleaner aerosol to blast the gunk away. Would that be a good way to go about it?

 

I'm also gonna try and salvage the gearbox bearings and other bearings like powervalve and waterpump bearings that are set into the cases. They aren't rusty or damaged, just gritty and full of junk. Is there a suggested method for cleaning them out or are they FUBAR once they get rubbish in them? Haven't been able to find anything on the internet or youtube. I was thinking more mineral spirits and blasts of air or brake cleaner followed by a thorough greasing?

 

I'll stick up the pics of the frame when it arrives, can't wait 🙂

 

Thanks folks.

Alex

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Well it's taken me ages to get back to it but I'm cracking on with the rebuild. Got the frame back from powdercoating and put a few bits together. Changed the steering head bearings, linkage bearings, swingarm bearings and rear shock bearings. Then I spent a few hours figuring out the gearbox and trial fitting it. Next up is to press the crank bearings in and then can install the crank and gearbox and close up the crank case.

 

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24760491983_5458ae9f5e_z.jpg

 

24760491083_1758c22ccb_z.jpg

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Well I have the rolling frame together with all new bearings and been working on the engine this weekend. Got the crank bearings and crank in, popped in the gearbox and closed up the bottom end but in one of the holes for the dozen or so bolts to button up the case halves it looks like there's a bolt sheared off inside the casting. (I bought the case halves individually and didn't notice it). Gonna need to bring it to someone to help me get it out I think, will get a picture of it but if anyone has any ideas?

 

I used a bit too much liquid gasket as well, not sure what effect that will have on the inside of the cases if a bit of overspill gets loose? I used black RTV as it's all I could get my hands on.

 

25724737316_a82d2ef922_z.jpg

 

25120363944_6250f68a4c_z.jpg

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Got the sheared bolt out using a left hand threaded bolt extractor, worked a treat.

 

Was putting the clutch together then and found that the OEM parts I had ordered for the 2001 year (flat needle bearing, washer and collar) didn't fit with my pushrod mushroom or pressure plate. So I did some research and found that my bike has a 1999 clutch pushrod assembly and 1999 pressure plate with a roller bearing. So I just left out the needle bearing and left the clutch as a 2001 bike with 1999 clutch. The clutch action is perfect so I don't anticipate any problems. Had to pick up a new clutch boss as well.

 

Then slapped the stator and flywheel on, flywheel is a little rusty/discoloured so I cleaned up the contacts. Is that enough or what do you guys reckon? I've stuck the ignition cover on loosely for now so I can get back in when I inevitably have to clean up all the rest of the rust.

 

I'm just waiting on a circlip to arrive for the primary gear and waterpump gear and then I can close up the bottom end and go and fetch my cylinder which has been replated. Then I'm on the home stretch!

 

In this photo there's a mushroom with a groove for a circlip, but the 2001 needle bearing interior diameter is larger than the mushroom diameter.

 

25887758026_b9013e28c7_z.jpg

 

Here's my 1999 pressure plate with the 1999 bearing mechanism (a roller bearing)

 

25792880992_1a4a68917e_z.jpg

 

Bit dirty inside my ignition cover, will clean it up

 

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Flywheel is a bit rusty

 

25284936983_6bf1c91371_z.jpg

 

Ignition cover on for the time being. I also need to buy an OEM collar for my output shaft, as well as the two O-rings that fit inside a kind of bushing that goes inside the oil seal.

 

25818688561_d6098773f3_z.jpg[/url]

 

And my clutch installed. How much do you guys torque the spring bolts to??

 

25818682891_00eb73dc04_z.jpg

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Well I have the rolling frame together with all new bearings and been working on the engine this weekend. Got the crank bearings and crank in, popped in the gearbox and closed up the bottom end but in one of the holes for the dozen or so bolts to button up the case halves it looks like there's a bolt sheared off inside the casting. (I bought the case halves individually and didn't notice it). Gonna need to bring it to someone to help me get it out I think, will get a picture of it but if anyone has any ideas?

I used a bit too much liquid gasket as well, not sure what effect that will have on the inside of the cases if a bit of overspill gets loose? I used black RTV as it's all I could get my hands on.

Kudos to you for tackling this on your own. It's quite a daunting but rewarding task.

Hmm, 2 things worry me here, though. I'm not sure of the repercussions, if any, but I know the case halves are manufactured as a unit, and shouldn't really be mixed and matched. Now, that might be overkill and just the manufacturers covering their butts, but maybe someone can chime in on whether it's a no-no to do it.

My other concern would be using RTV silicone. Silicone dissolves in fuel, which is why there is specific gasket maker for these applications. I use MotoSeal 1 Ultimate Grey made by Permatex. I've heard it's the exact same thing as Yamabond and the Kawasaki bond, but much less expensive. Again, someone else might chime in and say it's overkill, so I'll shut up now.

But your pics look great. Keep us updated.

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Kudos to you for tackling this on your own. It's quite a daunting but rewarding task.

Hmm, 2 things worry me here, though. I'm not sure of the repercussions, if any, but I know the case halves are manufactured as a unit, and shouldn't really be mixed and matched. Now, that might be overkill and just the manufacturers covering their butts, but maybe someone can chime in on whether it's a no-no to do it.

My other concern would be using RTV silicone. Silicone dissolves in fuel, which is why there is specific gasket maker for these applications. I use MotoSeal 1 Ultimate Grey made by Permatex. I've heard it's the exact same thing as Yamabond and the Kawasaki bond, but much less expensive. Again, someone else might chime in and say it's overkill, so I'll shut up now.

But your pics look great. Keep us updated.

 

 

 

Thanks man! The replacement case halves are from the same engine, I just bought them already split is what I meant. Interesting to hear though, I was wondering about the tolerances from one case half to another from a different engine.

 

Hmm yeah I had heard from one guy that the RTV is a bit of a no-no but I read somewhere that the stuff I got is OK. Think it's called Dynatex or something. It's used in smaller two-stroke applications like garden machinery and the guy in the shop said it would be fine (but of course he would say that). You reckon I need to split the cases and use something better? I tried to find an OEM or aftermarket solid gasket for the case halves but they don't seem to exist?

 

Thanks for the encouragement, much appreciated! 🙂

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Honestly I wouldn't know if you'd need to split them. Plenty other members here much more knowledgeable. My only knowledge is what I read and not hands-on, except one motor that I'm in the process of rebuilding. Experience goes much further haha. You could pm another trusted member here. There are a few that are quite trustworthy. In fact, the one I trust the most has already posted here in your thread (😉)

I don't believe a gasket exists for the main case halves, so you're good there.

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Instead of people second guessing, I would just look on the packaging or lookup the specific product you used to see if it is gas and oil proof.

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Instead of people second guessing, I would just look on the packaging or lookup the specific product you used to see if it is gas and oil proof.

If it has silicone in it, it's not fuel-proof.

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