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Heh everyone , I am now forced to get new handlebars since they've bent way more than my comfort level .. I do need a little help and if anyone has a recommendation please voice it , now I like the stock handlebars I like the height width everything .. Just I would like the longer (left -to- right) because my new grips extended farther than the stock bars to I was hoping new longer bars could help that problem ... Please help if you guys can and always succeed to do ... Thanks

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Heh everyone , I am now forced to get new handlebars since they've bent way more than my comfort level .. I do need a little help and if anyone has a recommendation please voice it , now I like the stock handlebars I like the height width everything .. Just I would like the longer (left -to- right) because my new grips extended farther than the stock bars to I was hoping new longer bars could help that problem ... Please help if you guys can and always succeed to do ... Thanks

 

If your grips extend further than the ends of the bar that is not usually cause to make an ergonomic change--like wider bars.  It is an adjustment thing.

Have you ever had your switches off of your handlebar?  If so, you would find out that these controls are pinned. Meaning there is a nub molded into the switch or throttle housing that interfaces with a small hole in the handlebar to prevent these parts from twisting on the bars as you crack the gas, or push the buttons.  In order for your grips to fit fully on the bar those controls would have to be removed and the holes in the handlebars re-drilled "X"-distance closer to the triple clamp.

 

The good news is---you will be going through this anyway if you choose to get anything other than OEM bars again.  Most are not drilled for the pins on your throttle and switches.  Some people just grind off the "nubs" to make a bar replacement more easy, but that does leave the possibility for your stuff to twist.  It also makes ergonomic adjustments much easier.  Kind of a weighed risk?  I always re-pin hole my new bars.  YOU DO NOT NEED TO DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH ALUMINUM--just make enough of a divot for the "nub" to recess into.

 

And me--I use Carmichael "low" Pro Taper SE bars.  Most dudes want more rise than this though.  I am real short so rise don't help me any! 

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If your grips extend further than the ends of the bar that is not usually cause to make an ergonomic change--like wider bars. It is an adjustment thing.

Have you ever had your switches off of your handlebar? If so, you would find out that these controls are pinned. Meaning there is a nub molded into the switch or throttle housing that interfaces with a small hole in the handlebar to prevent these parts from twisting on the bars as you crack the gas, or push the buttons. In order for your grips to fit fully on the bar those controls would have to be removed and the holes in the handlebars re-drilled "X"-distance closer to the triple clamp.

The good news is---you will be going through this anyway if you choose to get anything other than OEM bars again. Most are not drilled for the pins on your throttle and switches. Some people just grind off the "nubs" to make a bar replacement more easy, but that does leave the possibility for your stuff to twist. It also makes ergonomic adjustments much easier. Kind of a weighed risk? I always re-pin hole my new bars. YOU DO NOT NEED TO DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH ALUMINUM--just make enough of a divot for the "nub" to recess into.

And me--I use Carmichael "low" Pro Taper SE bars. Most dudes want more rise than this though. I am real short so rise don't help me any!

ow thanks for the fast response. Ok I think I'll just slide the other junk closer than ... Or idk if there are extended ones I'd rather get those but the bars are bent regardless so I have to get new ones

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Grind the nubs and install clamps on new bar just snug, wherever you want. You want (or I do) the controls to rotate on bar if they get smacked in a crash. Much better to have them rotate than snap off, right? Pick yourself up, hand twist the controls back to where they belong and carry on.

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After grinding the nubs off I put a wrap of electrical tape around the bar under the housings. This keeps the controls from rotating in day-to-day use without over tightening the screw holding the housing on.

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How tall are you? What kind of riding are you doing? Reason I ask is there are so many options on height, sweep and placement.

Here is a read that can help. 😉 Good luck!

http://www.your-adrenaline-fix.com/motorcycle-controls.html

im not looking for anything much different than the stock bars I like the height and he way they feel ... But I wouldn't mind them being longer ..

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 Mea

 

im not looking for anything much different than the stock bars I like the height and he way they feel ... But I wouldn't mind them being longer ..

sure the width of the bars, measure height and measure sweep then look for bars with similar measurements 😉 I myself like bars with little to no sweep.

 

 This should help.

 

62620879.png

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Grind the nubs and install clamps on new bar just snug, wherever you want. You want (or I do) the controls to rotate on bar if they get smacked in a crash. Much better to have them rotate than snap off, right? Pick yourself up, hand twist the controls back to where they belong and carry on.

Not sure, but this thought process may be a mountain bike thing...

Nothing worse than having to pedal out without shifters or brakes after a crash. But then again, who wants to moto after breaking alever?

Got some Protaper EVO bars with the CR high bend for my DR 650 and promptly removed the locating tabs on the light and starter pods. Didn't like the idea of drilling out new bars!

Just got another one for my DRZ.

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Mea

sure the width of the bars, measure height and measure sweep then look for bars with similar measurements 😉 I myself like bars with little to no sweep.

This should help.

62620879.png

yea I'm looking for handlebars with more width . Does anyone know dimensions on stock bars

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yea I'm looking for handlebars with more width . Does anyone know dimensions on stock bars

 Go out and measure yours 😉 I don't have any to measure. Not hard to do.

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Go out and measure yours 😉 I don't have any to measure. Not hard to do.

well mine are bent I would rather have a true measurement ...

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yea I'm looking for handlebars with more width . Does anyone know dimensions on stock bars

 

I do have a set of OEM bars that are unbent and pristine.  I threw some rough measures on them.

Length-or-Width = 785

Sweep =80

Rise = 85

Edited by kevvyd

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I do have a set of OEM bars that are unbent and pristine. I threw some rough measures on them.

Length = 785

Sweep =80

Rise = 85

would you happen to know width

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If by 

 

would you happen to know width

If by width you mean length...well I guess thats just grammar

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Not sure, but this thought process may be a mountain bike thing...

Nothing worse than having to pedal out without shifters or brakes after a crash. But then again, who wants to moto after breaking alever?

Got some Protaper EVO bars with the CR high bend for my DR 650 and promptly removed the locating tabs on the light and starter pods. Didn't like the idea of drilling out new bars!

Just got another one for my DRZ.

 

I thought MTB riders (especially DH bro's) got this idea from Moto riders?

Doesn't everyone have hand-guards anyway?  Mine are mounted to the triple clamp.  If I crash hard enough for the hand guards to move--thus allowing lever and control switches to be damaged...well I probably am not having a good ride back out anyway!! Additionally-the lever perches are not pinned and can be left a little loose to allow for movement.

And yeah--I didn't like the idea of drilling out new bars either.  But the flimsy OEM ones are drilled all the way through,  so a little divot out of stronger Aluminum ones should be OK in my logic?

 

I was dubious of removing my locating pins because when 1 was broken off on my Ducati I could not for the life of me get it to stay put. Not with shims, tape, glue, anything!!  I ended up getting a really small self tapping screw and drilling it into where the nub used to be as a fix.  Italian sh*t--probably not an issue on the DRZ!

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After dropping my DRZ400s last summer (hard) my stock bars were bent. I went with Protaper Countour CR-Hi and discovered the little plastic locating pin when dis-assembling the stock controls. Thanks to this forum I knew what others had done about mounting the stock controls to new aluminum bars; so I figured I would chime in on this thread perhaps to help the next noob like me.

I decided to drill the new bars instead of filing down the locator nubs. To me, the plastic control housings are kinda flimsy and would not clamp down on the bar hard enough to prevent spinning, without the nubs holding them in place. And I didn't want to wrap tape around my new bars, I like the clean look. Maybe I'm wrong but when riding you are pushing those switches with your thumbs a lot, seems to me they could spin on you.

What worked well for me was placing the control in the desired location and then I put a little wet paint on the nub, I pressed the two halves together and then I had a little paint spot where the hole should go. The aluminum drilled pretty easy by hand and the controls are mounted solidly. If my new Contour bars break at the drill hole I'll jump back in and let you all know that I F'd Up. 

Ps) I also cut the bars down a little, as much as possible, down to the number 2 to be as narrow as possible for woods riding. New Pillowtop grips and Moose aluminum throttle tube too.

Good luck!

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