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2005 drz400s Overhaul and Upgrade

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Alright people I have a 05 drz400s. Had it about 3 years now and I love it. tried to sell it a few times and couldn't. Well now I want to start "Beefin it up". Already got exhaust but its just a Pro Circuit T-4.  Got some cash saved up and I want to get a big bore kit but which is better (quality, performance, overall) between the Athena 435cc and Cylinder Works 434cc? Also I'm going to order the FCR Carb but if I go the Big Bore way I feel sure I should get the 41mm carb correct? I also want to get cams...so with a 434cc or 435cc big bore an 41mm carb which cams should I install? the stage 1 or Stage 2? and should I upgrade the stock crank? the cranks is getting replaced either way stock or upgraded.  

 

also I would like to do this with no machining...I know I have seen some comments on upgrading cranks and having to take the case to a machine shop...trying to avoid that.

 

Id like a hydraulic clutch also but haven't been able to find one for a drz yet.

 

Any input is appreciated.  

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I'm building the stroker big bore and starting with the 39FCR and will try a CVK40 I have to compare . They'll be big enough for me because I don't want all my power up top , I'm going for a much lowend and mid . I also went with a set of Web Cams and have adjustable cam chain sprockets for the same reason , to keep power down low . The Hot Cams are more for topend (there will be a good jump down low with all the upgrades either way).Web Cams have topend profiles as well .  It depends on how you like to ride it , me personally can't stand needing to keep high rpms for  power , especially when going for several hours on trips . Build the motor how you want it , not just how everyone else likes . 

 

I'll also have the ACT gears which is one upgrade for you to consider.  

Edited by jjktmrider
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Alright people I have a 05 drz400s. Had it about 3 years now and I love it. tried to sell it a few times and couldn't. Well now I want to start "Beefin it up". Already got exhaust but its just a Pro Circuit T-4.  Got some cash saved up and I want to get a big bore kit but which is better (quality, performance, overall) between the Athena 435cc and Cylinder Works 434cc? Also I'm going to order the FCR Carb but if I go the Big Bore way I feel sure I should get the 41mm carb correct? I also want to get cams...so with a 434cc or 435cc big bore an 41mm carb which cams should I install? the stage 1 or Stage 2? and should I upgrade the stock crank? the cranks is getting replaced either way stock or upgraded.  

 

also I would like to do this with no machining...I know I have seen some comments on upgrading cranks and having to take the case to a machine shop...trying to avoid that.

 

Id like a hydraulic clutch also but haven't been able to find one for a drz yet.

 

Any input is appreciated.  

 

 

Not hard imo to find a hydraulic clutch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SUZUKI-DRZ-400-04-13-MAGURA-HYDRAULIC-JACK-HYMEC-CLUTCH-SYSTEM-DRZ400-/281348677584🙂 you must have been unlucky on the google 😉

 

hydraulic clutches are nice, I have on the Husaberg. not sure I'd pay the price to convert a DRZ unless I had actual trouble with the stocker myself, but the stocker can be stiff so I can totally understand the inclination to change! ... fwiw!

 

 

The main difference between the Athena and Cylinder Works is that the water jackets on the Athena are larger, and the Athena cylinder can be bored out to further than 94 - 94.5mm or so. For the money for almost everyone, the CW kit is the far better deal. (There may be differences in piston weight too? But I don't know. Nothing noticeable.)

 

 

The 41mm is mostly for top-end on the furthest-out stroked builds. Probably you want the 39mm.

 

 

Probably you want E cams or Hot Cams Stage 2. (Stage 1 / Stage 2 doesn't mean what it used to mean. Stage 1 was like E cams, and stage 2 was more aggressive. Now stage 1 are basically higher-lift S cams and stage 2 are like E cams.)

 

 

A stroker crank changes things a bit, and is a more involving build with more things to think about and decisions to make. I like to tinker so personally I'm going to get a +4mm stroker when I rebuild. In that case you need to consider the compression ratio in that case conjunction with a base gasket and cams.

 

 

What I'd probably do / am probably going to do:

- CW +4mm bore

- Hot Cams +4mm stroker

- Hot Cams current Stage 2 (E-style cams, known to work with strokers with a thicker base gasket, cheap and common and have a good autodecomp mechanism) ... or E cams if I find them for less

- Thicker cylinder base gasket to take care of compression

- Might bore out my CVK40 if I can find someone to do it locally, otherwise I'm leaving it alone

 

Another way to build a stroker is to get a bit wilder cams and not increase the base gasket thickness.

 

 

I'm a bit tempted to try an even bigger bore for fun, either having a used Athena cylinder punched out or getting an Ice Cube. But I probably won't as it's hardly worth the money except as an interesting experiment.

 

 

Don't forget to have the suspension redone! You reap MUCH more benefits from that than from anything beyond the very first steps of power mods! (I keep saying this in almost every thread 🙂 I apologise if people are getting tired of it ...)

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Not hard imo to find a hydraulic clutch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SUZUKI-DRZ-400-04-13-MAGURA-HYDRAULIC-JACK-HYMEC-CLUTCH-SYSTEM-DRZ400-/281348677584🙂 you must have been unlucky on the google 😉

 

hydraulic clutches are nice, I have on the Husaberg. not sure I'd pay the price to convert a DRZ unless I had actual trouble with the stocker myself, but the stocker can be stiff so I can totally understand the inclination to change! ... fwiw!

 

 

The main difference between the Athena and Cylinder Works is that the water jackets on the Athena are larger, and the Athena cylinder can be bored out to further than 94 - 94.5mm or so. For the money for almost everyone, the CW kit is the far better deal. (There may be differences in piston weight too? But I don't know. Nothing noticeable.)

 

 

The 41mm is mostly for top-end on the furthest-out stroked builds. Probably you want the 39mm.

 

 

Probably you want E cams or Hot Cams Stage 2. (Stage 1 / Stage 2 doesn't mean what it used to mean. Stage 1 was like E cams, and stage 2 was more aggressive. Now stage 1 are basically higher-lift S cams and stage 2 are like E cams.)

 

 

A stroker crank changes things a bit, and is a more involving build with more things to think about and decisions to make. I like to tinker so personally I'm going to get a +4mm stroker when I rebuild. In that case you need to consider the compression ratio in that case conjunction with a base gasket and cams.

 

 

What I'd probably do / am probably going to do:

- CW +4mm bore

- Hot Cams +4mm stroker

- Hot Cams current Stage 2 (E-style cams, known to work with strokers with a thicker base gasket, cheap and common and have a good autodecomp mechanism) ... or E cams if I find them for less

- Thicker cylinder base gasket to take care of compression

- Might bore out my CVK40 if I can find someone to do it locally, otherwise I'm leaving it alone

 

Another way to build a stroker is to get a bit wilder cams and not increase the base gasket thickness.

 

 

I'm a bit tempted to try an even bigger bore for fun, either having a used Athena cylinder punched out or getting an Ice Cube. But I probably won't as it's hardly worth the money except as an interesting experiment.

 

 

Don't forget to have the suspension redone! You reap MUCH more benefits from that than from anything beyond the very first steps of power mods! (I keep saying this in almost every thread 🙂 I apologise if people are getting tired of it ...)

Don't worry about the repetition Anthon! If you repeat it enough, it becomes a habit, or in my case, finally sinks in! Haha!
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Hey guys I'm thinking about going to the 434 bb kit because my piston is scorched. But Everything else is stock besides the 3x3 mod and exhaust. What Im wondering is should I just replace the cylinder head with another stock or go ahead and put the bb kit in without having to mod anything else

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