Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Recommended Posts

Gday,

 

Has anyone ever done a top end rebuild on a dr350 or even just the rings?? My dr350 blows abit of smoke which is from most likely worn rings, i ride it pretty hard so i dont blame it

 

Would anyone know how much $$$ for the whole top end rebuild or just the piston and rings or even just the rings

 

I might do it DIY just to save money, any advise would be great

 

Cheers toby 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can get stock 79.00 mm rings for about $30, top end gasket kit about $30 but be sure and get the one with the 4 valve stem seals. You'll want to replace them too since it's blowing oil. Not a big deal just need a valve spring compression tool. Harbor Freight has one for $13 might work. If the piston looks ok why replace it. So if you can get away with just replacing the rings, gasket kit with valve stem seals, valve compression tool, permatex ultra gray for valve cover, do the work yourself, less than $100.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can get stock 79.00 mm rings for about $30, top end gasket kit about $30 but be sure and get the one with the 4 valve stem seals. You'll want to replace them too since it's blowing oil. Not a big deal just need a valve spring compression tool. Harbor Freight has one for $13 might work. If the piston looks ok why replace it. So if you can get away with just replacing the rings, gasket kit with valve stem seals, valve compression tool, permatex ultra gray for valve cover, do the work yourself, less than $100.

cheers mate appreciated 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That was done to mine when I bought it. Seems to work well, don't know how it was before. A pumper carb and rebuild are next on my bike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That was done to mine when I brought it. Seems to work well, don't know how it was before. A pumper carb and rebuild are next on my bike

Was the jetting changed at all? And if so would you know what to?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't recall on mine. This should help you with your air box http://www.kientech.com/AirBoxMod.htm

This simple process made a huge improvement to mine. Then I got Jesse's bigger header and had him bore out the stock exhaust and that was also a great improvement all while keeping the very dependable DR 350 motor a very dependable DR 350 motor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think a shop would be $500. note that if you are doing a compression check from the plug hole, you will not get a accurate reading due to having an automatic decompression mechanism for easier starting

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, it has been a little while any updates? I have had a DR350s that I have only gotten to run 2 times in the past 3 years. previous owner said he thought it would need a top end to get better compression so I am thinking it is time to do that myself.. any tips. I have done it before on other bikes, I just dont do it a lot. 

 

TIA

IMG_20130901_113714 (3).jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, it has been a little while any updates? I have had a DR350s that I have only gotten to run 2 times in the past 3 years. previous owner said he thought it would need a top end to get better compression so I am thinking it is time to do that myself.. any tips. I have done it before on other bikes, I just dont do it a lot. 

 

TIA

I got rid of mine, to heavy, suspension was terrible, your looking at few hundred dollars in parts and coz its a 4 stroke it'll be a pain in the ass #valves

 

Just get a 300exc  :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got rid of mine, to heavy, suspension was terrible, your looking at few hundred dollars in parts and coz its a 4 stroke it'll be a pain in the ass #valves

 

Just get a 300exc  :D

Not bad, At this point, I am committed to make it run like a top if for no other reason co I can say I did. I believe my next step is rebuilding the top end.. Considering my experience on the trails started on a $150 Chinese Yamoto enduro that was extremely under powered and other than springs did not have shocks.. (This is a MAJOR upgrade... if it will run)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not bad, At this point, I am committed to make it run like a top if for no other reason co I can say I did. I believe my next step is rebuilding the top end.. Considering my experience on the trails started on a $150 Chinese Yamoto enduro that was extremely under powered and other than springs did not have shocks.. (This is a MAJOR upgrade... if it will run)

Go for it, find out whats wrong with it and fix her up 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can get stock 79.00 mm rings for about $30, top end gasket kit about $30 but be sure and get the one with the 4 valve stem seals. You'll want to replace them too since it's blowing oil. Not a big deal just need a valve spring compression tool. Harbor Freight has one for $13 might work. If the piston looks ok why replace it. So if you can get away with just replacing the rings, gasket kit with valve stem seals, valve compression tool, permatex ultra gray for valve cover, do the work yourself, less than $100.

what is a good brand to go with and where is a good place to get them? I will be rebuilding mine soon and need to get some lined up. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what is a good brand to go with and where is a good place to get them? I will be rebuilding mine soon and need to get some lined up. 

 

I got the Moose gasket set but it included all the bottom end stuff - I think they have top end kits on eBay that include the valve oil seals.

 

Got Wiseco 3110XG rings on eBay.

 

Also: I have the valve compressor tool from Harbor Freight. It was sort of useful, but it's too big to do the valves on the DR easily. I ended up making a tool that was a cinch to use once I got the hang of it. Took a socket about the same size as the valve spring, a magnet pickup tool, and a small spring that fit over the magnet tool shaft. Slid the spring over the magnet shaft, then slid the whole thing into the socket. Used a wrench and laid it over the top of the socket with the magnet tool running through the middle, placed it over the valve, then apply steady full body force and leaned into the socket - pushes the valve spring down, pops the retainers out and the magnet grabs the retainers. The spring keeps the magnet pushed down on the valve so it can grab the retainers. A bit tricky, but easy as pie once you get the feel of it and way easier than that ill-fitting valve tool, plus it doesn't yank on the springs.

 

Does that make any sense? Lol... I can get a pic if it helps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what is a good brand to go with and where is a good place to get them? I will be rebuilding mine soon and need to get some lined up. 

i went all stock suzuki since my bore & piston were in spec.

get part numbers here: http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/?gclid=CK_w84HkpMACFURgfgodA5UAGg#/c/suzuki_motorcycle/parts

then i shop around a little on ebay, etc.

stay stock stay factory if you want best level of performance AND reliability/ longevity

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...