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I almost feel bad asking. You guys have spent so much time and money through trial and error figuring out what works well. Then someone just ask for that info as if there was no blood and sweat lost in these conclusions. But, I am asking for those willing to share what they have learned. It will be greatly appreciated.

I have read through almost a years worth of post here and other 230 forums. Looking over the evolving mods. What may have been deemed best in the earlier threads may have been exceeded by this point in time. This is where I am having trouble, LOL, because out of so much reading, I was not looking at dates. So I will just ask, If you had it to do right now based on the summary of the experience shared here recently, what mods would you do and in what order.

I will give a little of what I think I want, yet bear in mind that I may not actually know what I want being that I have never ridden good bikes. So don't be afraid to say you know better what I want than I do. LOL, I deal with it so often, example, homeowner that I will be building for says they don't need a garage access door, they will just use the overhead door. Why would they not listen to me? In their ignorance, they think they know as much as I do about building. I have seen the blindness and realized that I too may be like this in ways so I have made a big effort that when experience speaks, I will listen.

This bike will be mainly for riding trails at my hunting lease. logging rds, firelanes, woods with hills and creek crossings. I hope to get a 250x for my other ventures like CAW. My 230 has been a great bike, LOL, me not even realizing that it was in need of upgrades. I have come along way in log crossings, etc just showing the stock 230 to be a good learning bike. 

So many mods that I have seen in the archives.... I would like to hear some discussion on, as to which they think best, considering my situation. I have rebuilt probably 7 top ends of air cooled honda motors, several timing chains, so I have the basics, not much more, not a mechanic, but I like to take pride in doing things myself, assuming the outcome will have no chance of being less than par. The only one that was not a success was my Honda Fat Cat that I tried to get by without a bore. I take my cylinders to my local honda shop, drop them off and then they have someone outside who does the work. I say this to give you an idea of my wrench turning experience. 

My weight, for suspension ideas, 195 give or take 5lb fluctuations. This without gear. LOL, I don't know how heavy those boat anchor boots weight. And, another thought, if this build can pull extra weight, rotor guards, engine guard, bark buster type protectors, etc is mods I am interested in. I would not want to add this to my now stock 230. And I an in NC, understanding that a good suspension source is local.

I jetted this bike at  a 45 pilot, 120 main stock stem in the 4th slot running baffle in. I feel confident in obtaining a perfect jetting with whatever mods are chosen. So, do I want to just change the piston... piston and cam... oversize piston and cam and all that this requires. Much could be said for going the cheapest route... but doing it the way you eventually settle on saves money over one step at a time. First and foremost, I don't want to do anything not well proven to be very dependable. My bike is just fine as is so I don't want it to take up space in the garage waiting to be fixed. I would just rather ride as is than jeopardize it's dependability. I don't need it to be a screamer. I want dependable power.

At what point/upgrades  does this bike loose it's traction and become like the others. It has unmatched traction being stock. Or does it not work this way? I would like to know I could break traction if wanted, but I don't want a roosting machine like my sons 450r. It has proven worthless on many levels when it comes to the woods, but traction is my thoughts at the momment. I want to be able to pull the front up easier over a roots, logs or rocks, without having to preload or pull up.

I am 5'11 and wonder if it is a given that I would benefit from opening the cockpit. Footpegs back and bars up and foward? How much if so? I wondered why someone did not just make bars shaped up and foward rather than the fabricated blocks?

Also, tires. I get rather tired of working on flats. Never without at least one bike in the garage that is not waiting for me to fix it. LOL, and after having stocked up on tubes, I now think I would like the tubliss. If they have anything that keeps them from being good "all around" then I would like to hear it. My last ride, on the way back to the truck, long logging road, it felt funny, unsafe. I figured it was going flat. Did not notice while in the woods, but showed itself when opened up. Checked it to be 3lb. So I wonder, would it feel unsafe on the open logging roads with running less air as the tubliss  allows?

So, If you were gonna update this 230, what would you do? What would you do if it were me considering the information I have given, LOL about what I think I want, considering my ability to do things myself... or lack of ability? Thanks much

Edited by 1gr8bldr

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Many of us here on TT love to help others with there bikes, so get several opinions and go with your gut and figure out what will work for and your budget.

Sounds like you want more low end grunt with out screaming your engine to the stratosphere?

There are two things to do to get the biggest bang for the buck....

1) add some compression (IMO: the more the better)

A 67mm Wossner piston will do that for you. Your bike will have approx 11-1 and it will add 10 more cc to your engine.

2) add a Web 40mc/ 402 torque cam with new rocker arms but you can use the stock valve springs no problem.

You can also get a custom cam from Terry Miller and taylor your cam to your exact specifications (he will offer you several choices) and still use Your stock springs for these cams

3) a Pro Com CDI ignition CDI Box will add even more smooth, tractable low end grunt but will still easily Rev to the limiter. the pro com is very reasonably priced.

It won't make huge amounts of difference like the cam and piston but you can easily tell the difference.

Terry builds 4 & 6 mm stroker cranks if you want even more.... I have 3 of them so far....

On the Internet or E Bay (I forget) you can purchase handle bar risers that move your bars up, or forward or both. I have a set on my 230f.

As far as I know, your on your own with moving your pegs back. There have been a few that made there own brackets but none that are produced for the general public (us) that I'm aware of?

Good luck, share what your learning, ask as many questions as you want, we are here to help you as much as your willing to learn.

You didn't say what year your bike is or if you plan on doing anything with the suspension?

Edited by adnohguy

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Since you are in Monroe, NC an I am in Matthews, NC we should get together to talk about this.  How about Hickory Tavern on Old Monroe Road some time?  We have a small shop in town as well.  Lots of fun.

 

I'll PM you with my email address.

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Since you are in Monroe, NC an I am in Matthews, NC we should get together to talk about this.  How about Hickory Tavern on Old Monroe Road some time?  We have a small shop in town as well.  Lots of fun.

 

I'll PM you with my email address

Great

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Many of us here on TT love to help others with there bikes, so get several opinions and go with your gut and figure out what will work for and your budget.

Sounds like you want more low end grunt with out screaming your engine to the stratosphere?

There are two things to do to get the biggest bang for the buck....

1) add some compression (IMO: the more the better)

A 67mm Wossner piston will do that for you. Your bike will have approx 11-1 and it will add 10 more cc to your engine.

2) add a Web 40mc/ 402 torque cam with new rocker arms but you can use the stock valve springs no problem.

You can also get a custom cam from Terry Miller and taylor your cam to your exact specifications (he will offer you several choices) and still use Your stock springs for these cams

3) a Pro Com CDI ignition CDI Box will add even more smooth, tractable low end grunt but will still easily Rev to the limiter. the pro com is very reasonably priced.

It won't make huge amounts of difference like the cam and piston but you can easily tell the difference.

Terry builds 4 & 6 mm stroker cranks if you want even more.... I have 3 of them so far....

On the Internet or E Bay (I forget) you can purchase handle bar risers that move your bars up, or forward or both. I have a set on my 230f.

As far as I know, your on your own with moving your pegs back. There have been a few that made there own brackets but none that are produced for the general public (us) that I'm aware of?

Good luck, share what your learning, ask as many questions as you want, we are here to help you as much as your willing to learn.

You didn't say what year your bike is or if you plan on doing anything with the suspension?

 

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and then$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$      [

 

Many of us here on TT love to help others with there bikes, so get several opinions and go with your gut and figure out what will work for and your budget.

Sounds like you want more low end grunt with out screaming your engine to the stratosphere?

There are two things to do to get the biggest bang for the buck....

1) add some compression (IMO: the more the better)

A 67mm Wossner piston will do that for you. Your bike will have approx 11-1 and it will add 10 more cc to your engine.

2) add a Web 40mc/ 402 torque cam with new rocker arms but you can use the stock valve springs no problem.

You can also get a custom cam from Terry Miller and taylor your cam to your exact specifications (he will offer you several choices) and still use Your stock springs for these cams

3) a Pro Com CDI ignition CDI Box will add even more smooth, tractable low end grunt but will still easily Rev to the limiter. the pro com is very reasonably priced.

It won't make huge amounts of difference like the cam and piston but you can easily tell the difference.

Terry builds 4 & 6 mm stroker cranks if you want even more.... I have 3 of them so far....

On the Internet or E Bay (I forget) you can purchase handle bar risers that move your bars up, or forward or both. I have a set on my 230f.

As far as I know, your on your own with moving your pegs back. There have been a few that made there own brackets but none that are produced for the general public (us) that I'm aware of?

Good luck, share what your learning, ask as many questions as you want, we are here to help you as much as your willing to learn.

You didn't say what year your bike is or if you plan on doing anything with the suspension?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don't wish to go as far as the crank. I have split the case and have the tools... but getting out of my comfort zone. My pet 230 is a 03 and my 230 with valve stem leak is an 09

$$$$$$]    $$$$$$

Edited by 1gr8bldr

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I did a lot of research before I opened up my like-new 2009 engine.  I personally spoke with Frank Nye, Mike Coe, and Terry Miller.  I traded emails and posts with Adnohguy and another rider in the CRFs Only forum.  I also spent a lot of time reading about all of Chuck's work with his XR200s.

 

The very first thing I did to my CRF230 after jetting uncorking was to get the tires and suspension worked out.  That is something you must do.  Period.  The bone-stock engine is already too powerful for the bone-stock tires and suspension.  After that you have a bike that is extremely capable.

 

But then you get bored so you have a myriad of proven options...  Here is what I did and how it worked out for me:

 

Bolt-Ons - Outside the Engine:

  • $12 - Mike Coe jetting + removal of exhaust baffle and intake restrictor - More power everywhere; most gain low to mid
  • $48 - Procom CDI (faster/hotter advance curve) - More power off idle to low-mid
  • $125 - Engines Only PoweRing and 110 man jet - More power mid to top
  • $157 - FMF PowerBomb head pipe - More power low to mid; most gain mid
  • $500 - Engines Only Outlaw exhaust - More power everywhere; most gain mid to top

Bolt-Ins - Inside the Engine:

  • $308 - Gaskets/Web cam/Wiseco piston - More power everywhere; most gain low to mid

As you can clearly see Bolt-Ons can be just as expensive as Bolt-Ins.  I wanted to try everything I could prior to going inside the engine.  The good news is all the Bolt-Ons went on to enhance the performance of my engine after the Bolt-Ins.  I used a Web 40mc/402 cam but I highly suggest you use one of Terry Miller's hybrid cams.  The 40mc/402 is great but I can assure you Terry's hybrid cams are even better.

 

In the end the FMF PowerBomb head pipe and EO PoweRing was traded in favor of the EO Outlaw exhaust.  While the FMF PowerBomb head pipe and EO PoweRing worked great, the power was concentrated right in the middle, which was fine and dandy.  Power at the bottom was very good and power at the top was very good.  After the EO Outlaw system power was increased at the bottom and really increased at the top.  The system flattened out the power by raising the bottom and the top.  It is really quite amazing how well it works.

Edited by VortecCPI
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I did a lot of research before I opened up my like-new 2009 engine.  I personally spoke with Frank Nye, Mike Coe, and Terry Miller.  I traded emails and posts with Adnohguy and another rider in the CRFs Only forum.  I also spent a lot of time reading about all of Chuck's work with his XR200s.

 

The very first thing I did to my CRF230 after jetting uncorking was to get the tires and suspension worked out.  That is something you must do.  Period.  The bone-stock engine is already too powerful for the bone-stock tires and suspension.  After that you have a bike that is extremely capable.

 

But then you get bored so you have a myriad of proven options...  Here is what I did and how it worked out for me:

 

Bolt-Ons - Outside the Engine:

  • $12 - Mike Coe jetting + removal of exhaust baffle and intake restrictor - More power everywhere; most gain low to mid
  • $48 - Procom CDI (faster/hotter advance curve) - More power off idle to low-mid
  • $125 - Engines Only PoweRing and 110 man jet - More power mid to top
  • $157 - FMF PowerBomb head pipe - More power low to mid; most gain mid
  • $500 - Engines Only Outlaw exhaust - More power everywhere; most gain mid to top

Bolt-Ins - Inside the Engine:

  • $308 - Gaskets/Web cam/Wiseco piston - More power everywhere; most gain low to mid

As you can clearly see Bolt-Ons can be just as expensive as Bolt-Ins.  I wanted to try everything I could prior to going inside the engine.  The good news is all the Bolt-Ons went on to enhance the performance of my engine after the Bolt-Ins.  I used a Web 40mc/402 cam but I highly suggest you use one of Terry Miller's hybrid cams.  The 40mc/402 is great but I can assure you Terry's hybrid cams are even better.

 

In the end the FMF PowerBomb head pipe and EO PoweRing was traded in favor of the EO Outlaw exhaust.  While the FMF PowerBomb head pipe and EO PoweRing worked great, the power was concentrated right in the middle, which was fine and dandy.  Power at the bottom was very good and power at the top was very good.  After the EO Outlaw system power was increased at the bottom and really increased at the top.  The system flattened out the power by raising the bottom and the top.  It is really quite amazing how well it works.

Assuming the suspension is not to much, I'm in for all of it. 

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Assuming the suspension is not to much, I'm in for all of it. 

 

Suspension goes from mild to wild:

  • John Hlebo revalve - $220
  • Bruce Triplett revalve - $250
  • Hagon shock - $450
  • Fox shock - $699
  • Works shock - $750

     

  • RT Cart Emu - $165
  • John Hlebo forks - $100
  • Bruce Triplett forks - $110

The biggest Bang-for-the-Buck for sure is Hagon shock and Bruce Triplett forks.  You will have a whole new bike.

I am using Bruce Triplett damper rods, one BBR fork spring, and the old version of the Fox Podium X shock.  Awesome!

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I almost feel bad asking. You guys have spent so much time and money through trial and error figuring out what works well. Then someone just ask for that info as if there was no blood and sweat lost in these conclusions.

That's exactly how I feel after joining this forum. So many helpful old timers who tried a lot of stuff. I am sure they themselves learnt from the trial and error of some other guys so they are passing on what they learnt + what they discovered.

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That's exactly how I feel after joining this forum. So many helpful old timers who tried a lot of stuff. I am sure they themselves learnt from the trial and error of some other guys so they are passing on what they learnt + what they discovered.

 

Yes we did and some a lot more than others.  Most of us are very happy to be able to share our experience and knowledge with others.

 

Makes me wonder how many riders just give up on the poor old CRF230 instead of interrogating those of us in here.

 

It can be a wonderful machine if you do the right things.  In my opinion the difficult piece is weight.

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Yes we did and some a lot more than others.  Most of us are very happy to be able to share our experience and knowledge with others.

 

Makes me wonder how many riders just give up on the poor old CRF230 instead of interrogating those of us in here.

 

It can be a wonderful machine if you do the right things.  In my opinion the difficult piece is weight.

If you guys get together and build a new bike from scratch based on the 230 I think it will be one of the best bikes ever. 220 pounds, 300cc long stroke torque/traction beast with your own cams/cranks/pipes and suspension. Call it XR300TT, I would definitely buy that.

Edited by Yap Yap
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If you guys get together and build a new bike from scratch based on the 230 I think it will be one of the best bikes ever. 220 pounds, 300cc long stroke torque/traction beast with your own cams/cranks/pipes and suspension. Call it XR300TT, I would definitely buy that.

 

Well hold on to your hat because Adnohguy has a 269cc about to be unleashed very soon...

 

You know...  It would be one thing if the CRF230 had no aftermarket parts or was always left behind or wore you out or always broke or whatever.  But...  Just like the venerable old XR200 it just seems to do everything good enough to get the job done and to get it done very well.

 

In my opinion half the fun of owning a CRF230 is tweaking it and working on it to make it better and better.  To me it just like an old sleeper street car.

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It's already completed, broken in riding in the neighborhood (wet pavement) and a day's worth of mud riding... I need a new rear tire soon. Really soggy in No.Ca. this year.

15-40 gearing. Wheelies in 1st two gears just rolling on throttle, third gear front end super light, (again, wet pavement) accelerating/pulling hard in 6th gear till it hits the limiter at 9,400 RPM. Stock muffler sounds so different now....

Flywheel as light as I dare. Slightly more noticeable vibration at idle but goes away above about 2,000 RPM. Not noticeable when riding.

Over 13-1 compression starts easy, battery doesn't care at all.

Massive Torque from idle till approx 8,000 rpm, no steps, surges, just one flat super wide power band. Very progressive, smooth and linear torque curve.

Does not run any hotter than before, no detonation or pinging.

These bikes love compression!

Bike looks completely stock except for the fork brace... Ultimate sleeper on steroids.

Can't wait for dryer weather and dirt, with a new tire and some traction, should be fun. The tight turns arrive really fast now, love the added compression braking... It needs it!

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It's already completed, broken in riding in the neighborhood (wet pavement) and a day's worth of mud riding... I need a new rear tire soon. Really soggy in No.Ca. this year.

15-40 gearing. Wheelies in 1st two gears just rolling on throttle, third gear front end super light, (again, wet pavement) accelerating/pulling hard in 6th gear till it hits the limiter at 9,400 RPM. Stock muffler sounds so different now....

Flywheel as light as I dare. Slightly more noticeable vibration at idle but goes away above about 2,000 RPM. Not noticeable when riding.

Over 13-1 compression starts easy, battery doesn't care at all.

Massive Torque from idle till approx 8,000 rpm, no steps, surges, just one flat super wide power band. Very progressive, smooth and linear torque curve.

Does not run any hotter than before, no detonation or pinging.

These bikes love compression!

Bike looks completely stock except for the fork brace... Ultimate sleeper on steroids.

Can't wait for dryer weather and dirt, with a new tire and some traction, should be fun. The tight turns arrive really fast now, love the added compression braking... It needs it!

What a beast! I am smiling and I didn't even see it, let alone ride it. Have fun!

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It's already completed, broken in riding in the neighborhood (wet pavement) and a day's worth of mud riding... I need a new rear tire soon. Really soggy in No.Ca. this year.

15-40 gearing. Wheelies in 1st two gears just rolling on throttle, third gear front end super light, (again, wet pavement) accelerating/pulling hard in 6th gear till it hits the limiter at 9,400 RPM. Stock muffler sounds so different now....

Flywheel as light as I dare. Slightly more noticeable vibration at idle but goes away above about 2,000 RPM. Not noticeable when riding.

Over 13-1 compression starts easy, battery doesn't care at all.

Massive Torque from idle till approx 8,000 rpm, no steps, surges, just one flat super wide power band. Very progressive, smooth and linear torque curve.

Does not run any hotter than before, no detonation or pinging.

These bikes love compression!

Bike looks completely stock except for the fork brace... Ultimate sleeper on steroids.

Can't wait for dryer weather and dirt, with a new tire and some traction, should be fun. The tight turns arrive really fast now, love the added compression braking... It needs it!

 

PLEASE tell us more!!!  How does this engine compare to the other HC engines you have?  What other mods such as head work and carb and exhaust?

Edited by VortecCPI

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Working with Terry Miller on a new 28 mm carb.

Using a 2004 49st XR 250 r carb now

Sent Terry moulded intake port of head I'm currently using. (Mike Coe)

I have two more heads to mold when I get them removed and moulded and sent to Terry for evaluation/testing

(Another Coe and one from Frank)

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1453916628.497151.jpg

Current Cam has:

.367 lift exhaust

.392 lift intake

104.5 lobe centers

Already have two more cams and another head to try out

(Always testing, as I have three extra engines)

Powroll header/stock muffler

.034 deck squish

Oh, two more stroker engines in the Que to do soon.

Have all parts already, just need time.

Still planning on building a reverse cone exhaust system in side stock muffler housing (sleeper look)

Any thing else ???

Edited by adnohguy

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Any thing else ???

 

Thank you!  How about overall feel and power delivery compared to your other engines?  Did all the power shift down low or did it increase everywhere?

 

I still love the idea of a reverse-cone megaphone in the stock muffler.  I have to think you are way past the limits of the stock muffler inlet size.  An XR250 has a 1.375" OD mid pipe/muffle inlet and so does Frank's EO Outlaw.

 

And I just realized I forgot about the PoweRing again...

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