Beta LED Light OEM Fitment

[Rotax]

Holy crap!! Those look like they will light up the night!! Not to mention they look pretty well protected under the hand guard.

 

They do work very well. I have 4 times the range I had with the light bar and they use less power as a side bonus. I thought about taking pics but I know they won't do them justice. The real test was 2 weeks ago in the U.P.  My sons 690 went down with a bad fuse at 11:45 pm sat night. We sent 2 others back to the cabin to get the trailer as it was only 7 miles away. After loading it up I followed them back and he could turn his car lights off and it made no difference in the amount of light. 

[Primal Enduro]

bringing an old thread back to life.

I'm getting setup to do some night riding and some of my buddies have been using the cheapo $20 bike lights from amazon on their helmets with decent results.  I've never used them for dirt bike, but have to bicycle and the problem is that they give no warning when the battery is going to die, they just cut out.

a friend of mine who is big into mountain biking recommended the Revtronic BT40 lights which are reasonable at ~$60 each, but seam to have a more natural color light (don't know the kelvan rating) and have a much nicer built battery pack.  2 of my buddies had theirs burn up while charging...scary stuff!

the other thing the BT40 does is give you a battery life warning by the color of the led on the back.  Green= 75-100%, blue 50-75%, yellow 25-50%, red 25% and flashing red for 10% left.

here is a link to the BT40:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1JC894/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using go pro swivel mounts to tuck them up under my visor.

 

For the bike I have a Auxbeam 18w pod light mounted ran a ram mount swivel.  I'm not sure how I'm going to wire it up yet, but at only 18w, I'm wondering if I could just toggle off of the stock light wiring?

Edited January 30, 2018 by WoodsRacerDotCom

[GP]

You can barely get away with that on the battery, its on the edge though from my test.  Jim ran two of those 18W Auxbeams for the NE24, not bad.  We run the bike arrays on a bridge off the AC side.  You don't need that much bike light by us, my 2 x 10w setup is fine with the two helmet lights.  FWIW the Task racing lights, charger, and batteries are EXACTLY the same as the cheaper Amazon light I bought to make a pair.  They both fit in the new Task pivot mounts.

[M.Roman]

Beta USA sells a Cyclops H4 led bulb system that claimed 7k lumens which seems promising http://shop.americanbeta.com/p/7000-lumen-h4-led-headlight-bulb/new-stuff?pp=12

I ride with a few guys who run the Task 10" light bar with no modifications to the bikes electrics, and for the average 2-3 hours we ride at night no ones had any issues with charging, so the small light you have I'd think would be fine. We've also been running the Task helmet lights, and you can get an easy 4 hours out of each battery, and they do have power level indicator lights on the back also.

[Primal Enduro]

9 hours ago, M.Roman said:

I ride with a few guys who run the Task 10" light bar with no modifications to the bikes electrics

are they running direct to the battery?  or using a rectifier off of the AC side?

[M.Roman]

50 minutes ago, WoodsRacerDotCom said:

are they running direct to the battery?  or using a rectifier off of the AC side?

Straight from the battery (same way the system is designed to mount up)

[GP]

Straight from the battery (same way the system is designed to mount up)

Then its in constant loss mode. From testing with different loads on the DC side, 18-20w tops to still maintain a positive charge current, at off idle speeds. 72W bar will kill a battery on a 350RR in 1.5 hrs, from a buddy's experience night racing.

[M.Roman]

3 hours ago, GP said:

 

Then its in constant loss mode. From testing with different loads on the DC side, 18-20w tops to still maintain a positive charge current, at off idle speeds. 72W bar will kill a battery on a 350RR in 1.5 hrs, from a buddy's experience night racing.

 

Sounds like your buddy has a bad diode block, and maybe also condenser. Those seem to go bad consistently so may not be a bad idea to test with new ones, they’re pretty inexpensive too. The 4T models put out 200watts, even the earlier models before ‘15 put out well over 120watts. We’ve been runnin the bars on 2T models with lower wattage output and maintain a range of 12.9-13.1volts. 

[GP]

8 minutes ago, M.Roman said:

Sounds like your buddy has a bad diode block, and maybe also condenser. Those seem to go bad consistently so may not be a bad idea to test with new ones, they’re pretty inexpensive too. The 4T models put out 200watts, even the earlier models before ‘15 put out well over 120watts. We’ve been runnin the bars on 2T models with lower wattage output and maintain a range of 12.9-13.1volts. 

My buddy in this case is motoxgiant here, a Beta dealer who was riding a new demo '15 350RR on our team in a 24hr race.  I really doubt the DC side of the stator is good for 120W on those, AC side maybe.  The bike was fine before and after the incident, so no charging ckt issues.  Bike went dark and estart didn't work.  Kickstarted OK and batterry recharged during the next shift.  I put an ammeter in series with my battery, and with my 20W setup running on the DC side, I only had a few ma into the battery, more so with the light off.  '13 300RR. 

[M.Roman]

On 1/30/2018 at 2:06 PM, GP said:

My buddy in this case is motoxgiant here, a Beta dealer who was riding a new demo '15 350RR on our team in a 24hr race.  I really doubt the DC side of the stator is good for 120W on those, AC side maybe.  The bike was fine before and after the incident, so no charging ckt issues.  Bike went dark and estart didn't work.  Kickstarted OK and batterry recharged during the next shift.

That sounds very odd only Beta programs their systems to shut off when it recognizes low system voltage, or no charging as a fail safe on the EFI models. I owned a 15 350RR, and it shut off mid ride one day, seemed to crank slow, and I even kicked while cranking just to salvage the battery, still no luck. Swapped the battery with another buddies bike on the ride (thankfully a 2 banger ?), and got me started right away.

[M.Roman]

This is the Task 10" bar at sun down just to give an idea how it lights up in case anyone is looking at their stuff

[GP]

That sounds very odd only Beta programs their systems to shut off when it recognizes low system voltage, or no charging as a fail safe on the EFI models. I owned a 15 350RR, and it shut off mid ride one day, seemed to crank slow, and I even kicked while cranking just to salvage the battery, still no luck. Swapped the battery with another buddies bike on the ride (thankfully a 2 banger ?), and got me started right away.

No, not shut off. The light went out because the battery was depleted. The bike stalled from another event not the battery, and the estart obviously wouldn't work. Its quite simple, if your DC load is more than your source, you will be in constant loss mode and have a finite run time.

[hawaiidirtrider]

On 1/29/2018 at 4:48 PM, WoodsRacerDotCom said:

bringing an old thread back to life.

I'm getting setup to do some night riding and some of my buddies have been using the cheapo $20 bike lights from amazon on their helmets with decent results.  I've never used them for dirt bike, but have to bicycle and the problem is that they give no warning when the battery is going to die, they just cut out.

a friend of mine who is big into mountain biking recommended the Revtronic BT40 lights which are reasonable at ~$60 each, but seam to have a more natural color light (don't know the kelvan rating) and have a much nicer built battery pack.  2 of my buddies had theirs burn up while charging...scary stuff!

the other thing the BT40 does is give you a battery life warning by the color of the led on the back.  Green= 75-100%, blue 50-75%, yellow 25-50%, red 25% and flashing red for 10% left.

here is a link to the BT40:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1JC894/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using go pro swivel mounts to tuck them up under my visor.

 

For the bike I have a Auxbeam 18w pod light mounted ran a ram mount swivel.  I'm not sure how I'm going to wire it up yet, but at only 18w, I'm wondering if I could just toggle off of the stock light wiring?

 

These revtronic on the helmet look good. The burning up while charging?? Not .. but it looks interesting. I’ll be looking more into it for helmet lighting.