09 Drz400sm jetting with JD jet kit
Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S. It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011. I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm. Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down. My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec. They are no more than 25 microns out of spec. My question is, do I really need to shim these? Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses? As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80. Thanks!
Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone
-11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
-Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
-New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
- valves checked and within spec at 10,000
- jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
-waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
- drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
-thumpertalk case savers
-sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
- fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
-Shorai lithium battery
- stock gas tank and seat will be included
The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .
Currently have a 2000 drz400s work stock suspension. From my understanding this is the worst suspension the drz ever came with without even rebound damping adjustment. Therefore I'm looking for a upgrade. I'm seeing three approaches to take. First being a newer year s model suspension with dampening adjustment. A SM model USD forks and triple tree or some USD forks and triple tree from a rmz. So if you were going to upgrade what direction would you go. I currently ride off-road mostly but I do have some 17s for on road with as well so have to keep that in mind. Thanks
I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something.
Set of Allen wrenches
#3 Phillips screwdriver
small flat head screwdriver
8 & 10 mm sockets
13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate)
snap ring pliers
New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00
Tube or can of RTV sealant
Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil)
1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way.
2. Remove right side radiator cover.
3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic).
4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike.
5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off.
6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way.
7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below.
8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily.
9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here:
10. Remove the plastic gear.
11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here:
12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here:
13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover.
14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up.
15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect):
16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out.
17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13.
18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike.
19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly.
20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on.
21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt.
22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover.
23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant.
24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp.
25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw.
26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike.
27. You are done, go ride!
This post has been promoted to a wiki
Since I've been getting a few requests a week to e-mail the re-jet instructions word document (offered to send it to someone in old post that lives on) I thought I'd throw this post together. It is perhaps the one stop shop for 3x3 mod info: the master 3x3 post
The 3x3 Mod
So what is the 3x3 mod anyway? Well, this mod is basically re-jetting your carb and allowing it to run to its full potential. This mod can be done by even the most newbie of wrenchers out there. 3x3 refers to the size of hole that you will need to cut into the top of your airbox where your snorkel currently is. Don’t worry, you are not carelessly risking getting water into your engine by removing the snorkel. The bread and butter of the mod is the taper of new needle which you will get with your kit.
Jet kits can be found through the TT here
Scroll down to the bottom to find the right kit for your DRZ
If you purchased a S kit for SM by accident don’t worry it will work (different jetting specs are used, just ask!)
There are some great instructions outlining the procedure and here are two:
bayoubikebruiser’s post is a nice one (Good Job BBB)
Note that BBB followed the TPS sensor wire back and detached from the clip it there rather than removing the TPS off the carb.
Another read is the attached word file (which i convereted to pdf and can be found here for your convenience) which has ‘been around the block’ to say the least.
Sample Jetting recommendations (note: these are different for different elevations and different bikes)
- 150 main jet (155mj for full exhaust system)
- 25 pilot jet
- 2nd clip on needle from top
- 2.5 turns out on fuel screw
- 140 – 142.mj (bigger for exhaust)
- 25 pilot jet
- 4th position from top
- 2.5 to 3 turns out on fuel screw
Burned’s fuel screw setting method:
with the bike warm and idleing turn the fuel screw in till the idle drops/misses.then go back out till the idle peaks/smooths.
this should happen between 1 and 3 turns out.
if you end up at less than 1 turn you need a smaller pilot jet.more than 2.5 (or 3 turns on a cv) you need a bigger pilot jet.
choose the appropriate size and retest.
The 25 Pilot jet part number for TT is:
So… now you have the info that you need, get to it! Your bike will sound better and rip a little faster; get ready to grin!