Fork rebound

What is the first sign of not enough rebound in woods riding?  No really big jumps, just the typical water bars, roots and junk in the trail. Good C rider pace.

Deflection, running wide on exit, pushing front, lack of traction on flat and I'd camber corners.

Concerning deflection specifically, how do you tell if that is not being caused by too much compression? I think that is what is confusing me.

I think it's a jackhammer feel through the bars.

You don't notice it so much on trail trash but bigger hits.....a good place to test is rough down hills, you can feel the front buck or kick.

I run my rebound on the light side when it's wet because the speeds are slower due to slick conditions.

Lighter rebound allows the fork to recharge quicker.

It's tricky because you usually pay on the other side.

The best thing to do is spend a few hours riding the same section of trail your having issues with...see if you can find a happy medium.

Are your springs correct for your weight, any revalve?

Edited by moto9

You will find lighter rebound always works better down Rocky hills....

Always feels better over football sized rock gardens, but hurts cornering by making you run wide, bounces on landings, and is less stable at high speed.

What feels plushest and most comfterable is not the fastest!

Also even though quick rebound may feel good and plush, if you tiqghten it up you may find you feel more confident and be able to ride faster.

Also I'm sure you know that the rebound is simply a mid piston bypass that operates in both directions...

So as you test tighter rebound you may need to back off your compression adjuster as to not be testing tighter rebound and compression.... And hating the tighter compression associated with tighter rebound,

Do a back to back comparison with what you have now with 3 clicks more rebound and one click less compression

Edited by EnglertRacing

Good info, thanks to all. I've lost that planted feeling and will just keep testing. What is a hill? ;)  Still struggling with a f to r imbalance that came with a revalve. I think I may be doing something backwards. Going to work on one end at a time this weekend till I exhaust every possibility. :banghead:  According to tuners and sag figures springs are correct.

Edited by YHGEORGE

George,

 

Did you replace your stock pistons? I just sent you a PM about my old forks. Didn't see this thread till just now.

 

So on my XR250 forks that Bruce Triplett just sent me, when I had too much rebound the front end felt "Heavy" like I couldn't get it off the ground. It also had a rough ride and was pushing in turns. 

 

I would back off rebound totally and then roll back in as you ride. It should be really bouncy and lots of front end action and you put rebound back in until it feels good and light but controllable. You might try backing off compression until you start bottoming out and then go back in a few clicks after that. I don't know anything about the XR4 internals but I believe Bruce told me they had a very narrow window of operation in the rebound adjustment range that they actually work on the XR4 stock.

 

On my XR250 rear shock the rebound has to be just right... too much and the rear end packs, just a couple clicks (and alittle more sag) from good. Too little and the rear end pitches sideways, again just a couple of clicks from good. My Shock was re valved by Canon Suspension  (Racecraft). Rebound has to be right. Then I can click in compression more or less for the terrain. Oh my it makes so much difference when they actually work. 

Edited by Firestone

Thank you. I should have stated this issue is on my 01 CR250 but the principle still applies. Bruce is a master of explaining things. :thumbsup: And I did answer your PM.

Edited by YHGEORGE

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