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Bike won't start after valve adjustment

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So please excuse me as I am new to the sport and this forum.  So I took my 2011 kx250 to the shop to have a tune-up because it wouldn't start without the choke (even when hot).  I was told the valves were slightly under spec and needed to be shimmed.  I told the shop to go ahead with the repair and yesterday I picked up the bike and when I got it home I couldn't get it to kick start.  The bike bump starts just fine and seems to run fine when started but I cannot for the life of me get it to kick start.  I called the shop and they said I need to start let it run for 30 minutes and stop the bike.  After doing this a few times it would kick start just fine from there forward?  I have searched high and low and cannot find any info on this?  I should note the bike is also considerably harder to kick now.  

 

I will admit I am not overly knowledgeable with all this, but this all seems like a load of crap to me.  In my head I keep thinking this must be a timing issue or bad shim job.  Does anyone have any suggestions?

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Sorry more to add.  Also since this all happened the bike doesn't seem to idle.  I was going to check the timing but I have no Idea which marks are the top dead center, as there are a bunch of marks on the flywheel and they all look the same to me.  Does anyone have any pictures of what the TDC mark looks like?

Edited by rompup

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Are giving your bike any throttle before or during trying to start it? That will make it almost impossible to kick start. Don't touch the throttle when starting cold. Just pull the choke, then kick through a couple of times from TDC. This charges the fuel injection system. It may start on the second kick. Should start on third kick, or possibly fourth. If not, take it back to the shop and have them show you how they do it. It should start, but do not touch that throttle.

 

The Kawasaki website has owners manuals online. Turn up your idle by turning the "choke" clockwise.

 

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KX250F-Starting.gif

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Thanks for your reply.  No, I do not touch the throttle while starting the bike.  A friend of mine told me to put my hand on my knee while starting to make for positive I was not accidentally touching the gas.  Regarding the idle, thanks for the info.  I understand how to adjust the idle I just found it odd that it was so off after the adjustment.  I have been considering taking it back to the shop but I am not really confident in there work after this.

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It's only fair to give them a chance to either show you how they are starting it, or fix anything they may have missed. 

 

  We are all human and we all make mistakes. 

 

  That it was harder to kick when you got it back is both good and bad.  This bike has an auto decompression mechanism built into the exhaust cam, and is pretty darn easy to kick over. I generally start my with my hand when it's cold (I have a side stand) and then let it warm up. 

 

 These bikes idle high when off choke and fully warm. It should be 2,000 RPM once fully warm and off choke. 

 

  The shops thoughts about starting it and letting it run for 30 minutes is very odd to me. I for sure hope they don't mean let it idle for 30 minutes...lol  You wont have any coolant left...lol  And what is riding it for 30 minutes going to do?  I mean you want to ride it, that's why you had it 'fixed"...  Very odd statement for them to make. 

 

  Now if for some reason they had just put the fuel tank back on before you picked it up, and they had not started it yet, then yes it's going to take like 40 kick through's to prime the fuel line. But after that it should start just fine every time. 

 

 I would give them a chance to either show you, or fix it properly. If they fail to do that i would ask for my money back, and take it somewhere else. 

 

  You said something about checking the timing, do you mean the cam timing? That is something they should do if needed, as they were the last to install the cams. If you mean check the ignition timing it is something that you can check, but it's rarely needed. It's controlled by the computer. 

 

  I wish you the best of luck either way Boss. I have a 2011 as well, and when i got it, it would not idle well at all, and then became hard to start. I found the intake valves were out of spec, re-shimmed and all is well with the world. I will say the bike still does not like to idle off choke when cold, but once fully warmed up it idle's like a champ. 

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