Does this look normal? Front wheel

Changed the front tire and couldn't remember exactly what this spot looked like when I took it off. I don't remember the little gap between the fork and black speedo box (I think that's what it is)

It's a 2003 xr400

1458739447470.jpg

1458739493760.jpg

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You're good.  That's correct.  My bike is the same way. 

The side opposite the rotor floats on the axle spacer with no shoulder to rest against. That lets you adjust (if needed) and make sure the forks are parallel to each other so they don't bind. All bikes will reference off the rotor side to make sure the caliper and rotor line up. :thumbsup:

Sounds good, thanks guys. I've never messed with the front wheel before.

If you've never messed with the front wheel before, then you've never had to re-install it using the proper procedure for tightening the axle and axle clamps on each fork leg. Did you have a shop manual to go by?

I did, but how about I tell you how I did it, and you tell me if there's something I need to change. I tightened each clamp nut in a diagonal pattern, like I would for lug nuts. If my Clymer manual said how to do it differently, I didn't see it.

And only tightened each nut a little at a time

Here's the XR250R procedure; the XR400R is similar.

 

XR250RFrontWheelInstall.jpg

 

 

Key points are axle holder arrow pointing up, tang alignment, pumping the forks to align the tubes, nut tightening sequence, and torque.

 

Not mentioned here but shown in the manual: the gearbox must fit onto the wheel hub with the gearbox tangs aligned with the retainer tangs so they interlock, not overlap.

 

:ride:

Edited by ramz

As Rick pointed out, the 400 is the similar as above. As Michigan pointed out, the right fork floats on the axle. The left fork axle clamp holds a threaded sleeve/collar that accepts the threaded end of the axle bolt. You tighten the clamp nuts of that side first. Then when you snug the axle bolt, the sleeve doesn't try to turn with it and the axle pulls everything into alignment with the brake caliper and rotor on the left side.

 

As suggested in the 400s procedure, the right side clamp is left loose or with it barely snug.  It still needs to be able to move on the axle just yet. Pump the brake lever to seat the pads to the rotor, then while holding the brake, compress the front suspension several times as deep as you can into the stroke. The action of the inner fork tubes sliding into the outer tubes helps align and straighten the forks, specifically the right fork legs axle clamp that's still floating on the axle. This is done so you don't inadvertently tighten the right axle clamp with the right fork slightly bent/out of alignment.

 

While holding the bike upright after compressing the suspension( as opposed to laying it over on the kickstand), tighten the right axle clamp nuts. 

Axle Installation.JPG

Edited by Trailryder42

Thanks guys, I'll redo the right side. I did the axle part like it said. I appreciate the heads up.

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