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Cr fork/Fox shock Review.

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I now can do long time review report,on Cr85 fork/Fox shock. They work great,seems like more time on bike.The better it gets,for all type trail riding.After riding many different bikes,to compare. The tiny bike works wonders. There is one last thing,I would like to accomplish. To find out,if stock base valve can be valved better. Only because,I'm at end of Adjustment. Comp full soft/Rebound full soft. The Adjustments I have should not work (Rebound full soft). Lucky for me, It works great.Always room for Improvement,when your at end of Adjustment. So another set of Cr85 fork base valves.At My Susp. guy in Calif. To see if possible,to re valve stock base valve.I would like custom valving,softer at start.To the point I need turn in (Hard) Comp screw. I know this fork can be gold Valved,but they are so close (if not perfect). That big problem with gold valve,You go by ractec spec. Your faced with taking,Gold valves out 5/7 times before you get it right. So if anybody has revalved stock base valve,or gold valves.That work perfect please speak up (only on the 230f) Thanks guys. The older we get,the more picky about our ride.

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What year model CR85r are your forks?

Big or small wheel forks?

Your using 2 1/2 wt fluid, correct?

Standard fluid quantity or more than standard?

Modified (drilled) for use of a 15mm axle?

What brand and weight are your springs?

Modified CR85r Trees or aftermarket?

Any issues with fender and 21" tire clearance?

Any info that your willing to share is very appreciated.

Thanks, Guy

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Now Guy do you think I can answer that many,questions a time. I dont remember my name,half the time. Ok 2003 CR85 expert forks,stock moded to fit triple clamps.2 1/2wt PJ1 fork oil (Recommended by Vortec bless him on that one) .40 Cannon springs.4in from top on oil.Stock 12mm axle for now.No tire hitting Cr85 fender that I know about.Bike is super heavy,that is how we roll in Baja. Big tank,All add ons are heavy duty thick.Hand guards/  skid plate/ super heavy MT43 tire/ Three saddle bags on back,heavy loaded tubes tools. Tires have 4mil thick tubes.165 pound pencil neck geek.Has been know to twist it. Comp full soft/rebound full soft. To bottom bike out, you would have to ride it.At a speed the frame could not handle. New Info today,Another 230 I'm building.Have other Cr85 fork base valve at,Susp buddy. (I have not seen base valve) Said it is same as crap,on Xr250/400.Hold on there,our Xr400s with 6 shims removed.One of the best forks around.The Cr85 has 11 shims, He removed 4.So with 7 shims left. I now would be able,to adjust Comp adjuster.  From full soft. to more hard position. For end result of more plush,witch I cant find out. Because I'm maxed out full soft. Do they work perfect now Yes.Only try more things,will report when I get base valves to try.Also this other Cr85 fork is bored to take 15mm Axel. Funny how I hate USD forks,but not on the 230.

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I find Larry's experience really interesting. I worked with Larry while setting up my 150R forks and went the same route - 0.38kg springs (i'm light), 2.5wt oil but went with 5.5" air gap which is the minimum air gap recommended for 0.38kg springs in the 150R manual. This air gap means that I will have the most amount of stiffness at the top of the stroke. 

 

With this setup I am in a bunch of clicks on compression toward stiff but still softer than halfway. And I still bottom out on jumps with the 150R fender. My rebound is PERFECT at all the way fast (I think that's where it's at, I'll double check). I would like to fix the bottoming out issue but I don't want to keep adding compression because I love how soft the front end is and its balanced with the back. We'll see where I go with that. It barely bottoms and only in bad situations. Never on wheelies or normal stuff.

 

Another huge benefit I noticed from this mod, it brought my handlebars up just a bit, maybe 1". This is PERFECT now for my ~5'8" frame. I ride standing up now and I'm better for it.

 

Bottom line - a well tuned 150R/85 fork setup plus the Fox shock is amazing on this bike. The bike is so composed, I can wheelie easily and under total control, balance is awesome. Power is fantastic with the basic uncorking mods too. Next year maybe I'll do higher compression and some headwork/cam.

 

THANK YOU LARRY for organizing the Fox shock situation and for recommending and guiding me through the 150R fork swap. What an amazing machine.

Edited by xplodee
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Please don't post more pictures of your great looking bike. I'm ashamed now to post mine. If you can rise oil level,will help bottom out problem.Since mine is at,4in from top(more oil). I dont seem to have bottom out problem. I did bottom out fork only one time.Just to see if I could do it. I would never ever,hit what I did to test it. A little common sense,6th gear on it.

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Man...  I thought my bike was clean...

 

Thank you! Well, it is only a 2013 with about one season of me really riding it. And I only get to ride about one day a week for a few hours so I like to clean it up between rides :)

Edited by xplodee

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Please don't post more pictures of your great looking bike. I'm ashamed now to post mine. If you can rise oil level,will help bottom out problem.Since mine is at,4in from top(more oil). I dont seem to have bottom out problem. I did bottom out fork only one time.Just to see if I could do it. I would never ever,hit what I did to test it. A little common sense,6th gear on it.

 

My main worry about such a small air gap is blowing out seals :/ I think I can probably afford to go a click stiffer on compression anyway, I'll try it out on the trail this weekend.

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No worry or chance to blow seals with more oil.Your worrys are you have no wrap around guards,on back of your forks. Mine has the 03 cr85 stock seals still in.My Suspension guy,in Ca when he tests your bike. If you dont have the warp around guards in back. He tapes them on just to test.After he rebuilds your forks/new oil/revalve. If forks leave shop with out the extra guards. You don't get forks back till you sign wavier.He is not responsible for you new fork seals. Look at back of fork,these are ugly because at the time.I had to make them from rubber maid 17in trash can.The good looking ones on all my other bikes.Are made from thin white water drain pipe(plastic) 4in pipe cut in half.PTDC0079.JPG 

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I went thru similar issues with my CR85 fork conversion and found that Honda changed valving in the base and/or mid almost every year. :banghead:

 

Between the 96+ CR80/85R/RB and the CRF150R:

seven base valves

eleven damper rods (w/ mid valve)

 

My base valve fix was RaceTech GVs, did that to three sets of forks with good results. Makes tuning easier.

I also run softer springs with higher fluid level and don't have bottoming, but I do technical trail riding not big jumps. Also whoop out trails where clicker setting make a difference.

 

One issue with these forks is they are designed  for lighter bikes and riders so a lot of changes/adjustments for our use.

I've got mine valved and sprung so the clicker positions are near mid point.

 

One tuning point is how far the damper rod is screwed into the fork cap; it controls the rebound position of the fork slider and preload on the spring.

With the cap fully screwed onto the damper rod (with lock nut) the resulting travel is only 10 1/4". With the cap screwed onto the damper rod only 1 thread diameter yields 10.8" of travel, so a little over 1/2" to work with to adjust preload and rebound length.

Fully compressed the  gap between slider and stanchion is .862" (no dust wiper).

 

The 15mm axles does help handling when riding in/out of ruts. I did a test by swapping out only the slider and wheel bearings and keeping everything else the same including oil.

Aftermarket upper triple also helps but not as much; I'm running an Outlaw CNC machined top triple and it also makes a difference. 

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How many turns out,do you have on rebound adj. I think mine (Stock from Honda) 3 1/2. Where you able to get gold valves,right first time or?  Are we talking about Cr85 forked Crf230f Or other bike?

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Two  late model XR200Rs using CR80/85 or CRF150R Showa USD forks.

I used RT's recommended valving and haven't changed it, did change mid valve to CRF150R when updating forks. Compression valving is third from softest and two stage so forks are plush.

 

I'm running rebound at 1 1/4 turns out, but my XR is 30lbs lighter than a 230 so I'm running softer springs than you.

 

Also using RaceTech cartridge fork fluid.

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I went thru similar issues with my CR85 fork conversion and found that Honda changed valving in the base and/or mid almost every year. :banghead:

 

Between the 96+ CR80/85R/RB and the CRF150R:

seven base valves

eleven damper rods (w/ mid valve)

 

My base valve fix was RaceTech GVs, did that to three sets of forks with good results. Makes tuning easier.

I also run softer springs with higher fluid level and don't have bottoming, but I do technical trail riding not big jumps. Also whoop out trails where clicker setting make a difference.

 

One issue with these forks is they are designed  for lighter bikes and riders so a lot of changes/adjustments for our use.

I've got mine valved and sprung so the clicker positions are near mid point.

 

One tuning point is how far the damper rod is screwed into the fork cap; it controls the rebound position of the fork slider and preload on the spring.

With the cap fully screwed onto the damper rod (with lock nut) the resulting travel is only 10 1/4". With the cap screwed onto the damper rod only 1 thread diameter yields 10.8" of travel, so a little over 1/2" to work with to adjust preload and rebound length.

Fully compressed the  gap between slider and stanchion is .862" (no dust wiper).

 

The 15mm axles does help handling when riding in/out of ruts. I did a test by swapping out only the slider and wheel bearings and keeping everything else the same including oil.

Aftermarket upper triple also helps but not as much; I'm running an Outlaw CNC machined top triple and it also makes a difference. 

Chuck this is what Im thinking.Since your gold valved bikes,are Xr200s. Your spec would be guess on my 230f. You know my old story with gold valves.Got them for one,Wr450.Took that thing apart 7 times,to race tec instructions. (even did it lighter then what they wanted). Both times.The bike had ridged forks.So again Old story,started to throw away shims. On 7th try (completely insane) Throw away almost 3/4 of the shims in there. That thing works great,And that is not in any race tec book. You got lucky.I will try this shim stack mod,myself and report.Then Again since so close to perfect,Dont think it needs gold valves.

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