Jump to content

2014 500 exc fuel injection error code help


Recommended Posts

Hi,

Once an error code is present, does the bike need to be taken to the dealer to "clear" the code? I have the 9 short flashes FI blink, which is the MAPsensor voltage too high or too low, according to the manual. I previously had the throttle body OFF the bike looking into a non-starting issue which turned out to be a stuck injector. After putting everything back together the bike ran fine but had the aforementioned FI error blink. One person I talked with said it is not hard to get the bike to throw a code and legitimate or not the only way to clear it was to take it to the dealer. Is this a true statement? Or would the code erase itself if the problem was corrected? 

Does KTM offer more in depth service manuals for electrical trouble shooting or just the service manual to the general public?

Thanks for any help in advance. 


Jeff in Michigan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • TT Sponsor

Double check the plug on the map sensor, maybe it just isn't plugged in all the way, or maybe a wire got pinched or something. I've seen some fi error codes go away as soon as the problem was corrected, so at least some errors clear themselves. I don't know if they are all like that, but I would expect an error like this one go clear when the problem is corrected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sir thump,

 

Thanks for the time to respond. I have checked the connector and everything looks good. My first thought is I jacked something up when I had the throttle body off messing with the injector. If the MAP sensor wasn't damn near $200 bucks I would bite the bullet and try one. 

 

I have double checked everything I can see and think of. I have the throttle body off the bike but all the sensors connected and the same error code. I did a bunch of stuff trying to get it to start and the battery was weak. I had one guy tell me a weak battery and ECU error codes go hand in hand. The bike starts and runs fine. I get one dealer telling me one thing and another the opposite.

 

The bike is virtually brand new with less than 10 hours on it. I just have a hard time believing the MAP sensor is bad. I would believe with all the messing around I did trying to start it with a weak battery that I buggered up the ECU into throwing a code. But is the ECU smart enough to reset the error once it is gone? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sir thump,

 

Thanks for the time to respond. I have checked the connector and everything looks good. My first thought is I jacked something up when I had the throttle body off messing with the injector. If the MAP sensor wasn't damn near $200 bucks I would bite the bullet and try one. 

 

I have double checked everything I can see and think of. I have the throttle body off the bike but all the sensors connected and the same error code. I did a bunch of stuff trying to get it to start and the battery was weak. I had one guy tell me a weak battery and ECU error codes go hand in hand. The bike starts and runs fine. I get one dealer telling me one thing and another the opposite.

 

The bike is virtually brand new with less than 10 hours on it. I just have a hard time believing the MAP sensor is bad. I would believe with all the messing around I did trying to start it with a weak battery that I buggered up the ECU into throwing a code. But is the ECU smart enough to reset the error once it is gone? 

Most cars you can disconnect the battery and any errors will disappear, but come back if the issue is still there, Id expect the ktm to be the same in a worst case scenario.  Some bikes have to short out a connector to reset error codes, don't believe the ktm has that feature.

 

 

 

Never had an error code to try out yet on the ktm, but I would try leaving both connections off the battery for 30 minutes or so and see what happens, if its still there I'd say you still have an issue.

 

.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spud,

 

Tried that, in fact left the battery disconnected over night. Same error flash when I hit the key. I have talked to a ton of people but none experts in KTM or Keihin systems. Some say the code is historical and will stick until cleared. Others say, no change the part associated with the error and the ECU will clear it on its own. All I need to know is who is correct before dropping 190 on a new MAP sensor.

 

Thanks for your time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There should be a test procedure for the map sensor, see if you can find it or if your dealer will share it with you. Or test it for you.

 

Thump, if you have any clue where to find a procedure for testing the MAP I am all over it. Every dealer said it had to be connect to the diagnostic box. But, I have not gotten a good feeling they really knew what they were talking about. I did read where the MAP is only active on start up, after that it does nothing. I need to figure out the pin out of the big ECU connector and just do some simple volt Ohm stuff.

 

Thanks for your time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thump, if you have any clue where to find a procedure for testing the MAP I am all over it. Every dealer said it had to be connect to the diagnostic box. But, I have not gotten a good feeling they really knew what they were talking about. I did read where the MAP is only active on start up, after that it does nothing. I need to figure out the pin out of the big ECU connector and just do some simple volt Ohm stuff.

 

Thanks for your time.

The diagosic tool is able to clear codes in the history  , but if all systems are working right, disconnecting the battery is adequate to make a code go away and not reappear with a flashing light.  Sounds like you have a continuous hard failure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had the fi code when adjusting tps, the tps got stuck or something I adjusted back and forth and fi code went off maybe this helps.

 

All,

 

Was it the 9 short flash code? I did adjust my TPS voltage.

 

Thank you for your time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you positive everything is hooked up?

Desert,

 

Gosh, I think so 🙂. I de-smoged the bike per Dave Simon's video and kit. Followed his instructions to the letter. There is one plug that is not hooked up because what it was connect to was removed. I don't know what I should see for voltage on the plug coming to the MAP sensor. There are three wires, black, blue and purple. Black appears to be ground. On the other two one has a 4.9 volt source and the other I think is looking back into the ECU. I say this because the voltage reading changes between a low impedance volt meter vs. a high impedance one, which suggest a voltage divider or "electronics" on the other end. I did mess around a lot when trying to start the bike with a very low battery. I did not realize this was not a good thing to do with fuel injection. 

 

The code is still there when I turn the key on. I hear a click then a pause and another click in the ECU then the error code. I have no idea of the clicks are of any significance, but without the fuel pump buzz, I noticed them.

 

Thanks for your time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The diagosic tool is able to clear codes in the history  , but if all systems are working right, disconnecting the battery is adequate to make a code go away and not reappear with a flashing light.  Sounds like you have a continuous hard failure.

Spud,

 

disconnecting the battery does not clear the code, that is for sure. I have no idea how "smart" the ECU is on the KTM and if it can store historic codes. I think the system is pretty basic OPEN loop. I don't mean that to sound like I know what I am talking about just a result of all I have been reading. If I didn't need the help I would not bother you guys 🙂. I do come from an electronic diagnostic equipment back ground (Not EFI) and know the dollar rules the day. I would guess KTM uses the absolute minimum in terms of ECU smarts. Also, it seems like a money maker for the dealers to be the only ones capable of making things right. In many electronic systems CAPs are used to keep critical information. Sort of a dying gasp thing, if I lose the battery will I lose everything and become completely dumb? That sort of thing.

 

I am learning and thank each of you guys for taking the time to help a brother out.

 

Jeff in Michigan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All,

 

Was it the 9 short flash code? I did adjust my TPS voltage.

 

Thank you for your time.

Not sure never waited that long turned off bike and then back on and same thing started flashing. Went strait to tps adjustment cause i knew that was all i touched moved it back and forth and then reset and it was gone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure never waited that long turned off bike and then back on and same thing started flashing. Went strait to tps adjustment cause i knew that was all i touched moved it back and forth and then reset and it was gone.

 

Interesting. All data points are good data points. thanks man

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • TT Sponsor

Thump, if you have any clue where to find a procedure for testing the MAP I am all over it. Every dealer said it had to be connect to the diagnostic box. But, I have not gotten a good feeling they really knew what they were talking about. I did read where the MAP is only active on start up, after that it does nothing. I need to figure out the pin out of the big ECU connector and just do some simple volt Ohm stuff.

 

Thanks for your time.

 

This is the general idea.  I'm not sure what the exact values would be for this MAP sensor, but the general procedure should tell you if it's completely dead or not: 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thump,

 

Very cool, thanks. I have the exact same pump! I am not sure what he meant by "back probe"I just stuck 24 gauge wire into the female end of the plug. One big problem is the MAP sensor on the KTM is roughly the size of a quarter in diameter. It has a rubber seal around it and the whole thing sits in the throttle body. KTM has a special vacuum tool that looks like it would cost a few thousand dollars!

 

None of the dealers I talked to said they could test the sensor by itself, it had to be connected to the bike. Hmmmm..... See why I am not sure they know what they are doing? I know one thing, I sure as heck don't know what I am doing 🙂

 

Thanks for your time!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • TT Sponsor

Back-probe is basically do what you did, stick some wires in here and there as needed.  Be careful of any water tight seals in the plugs, try not to damage them.  A 4-stroke gas engine pulls quite a vacuum in the manifold, so in theory you can back probe the sensor then with the engine running watch the feedback line as you open and close the throttle.  The voltage should change as the vacuum in the manifold changes (or as you operate your vacuum pump if you do it that way). 

 

It's an active sensor, like the TPS, so to test it off of the bike you just need to give it power.  I'm guessing it's 5V but I do not know for sure, and I'm not sure which line is power, ground and feedback, but you can probably figure it out by measuring the power in the plug with the bike turned on. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

×
×
  • Create New...