Help Needed - 4CF Fork Conversion!

Please Help me if you know which way the top check valve is supposed to be oriented – it dropped out when I was not expecting it to.
I'm in the process of converting my 2016 stock WP 4CS FE450 Forks to the Open Chamber conversion kit provided by an aftermarket company.  (bike is a 2016 FE450)
That said, this process is tedious and worth the $100  to have them do it, if you trust others...
I'm attaching a pic of the “hydro-stop piston” of the rebound fork leg.  It has TWO check valve pins and I was only expecting one.  It has an embedded check valve bullet (the one on top) that I did not know existed and it fell out when I removed the torx set screw.  I have no clue if it was UP or DOWN (in relation to the gold valve in the pic) when it fell out – FKKK!  
The check bullet on bottom is expected and instructions require removal – the one on top was a surprise (to me and the kit company) – Yea!
I need concrete advice from someone who has disassembled these forks (this lineage) to this level so I can orient this FKKKK thing properly on re-assembly.  I am referring specifically to the orientation of the top check needle.

Thanks in advance.
PS (I will gladly provide advice and guidance to others when this is complete and tested.)

 

Bob

 

rebound_bullet.JPG

Please Help me if you know which way the top check valve is supposed to be oriented – it dropped out when I was not expecting it to.

I'm in the process of converting my 2016 stock WP 4CS FE450 Forks to the Open Chamber conversion kit provided by an aftermarket company.  (bike is a 2016 FE450)

That said, this process is tedious and worth the $100  to have them do it, if you trust others...

I'm attaching a pic of the “hydro-stop piston” of the rebound fork leg.  It has TWO check valve pins and I was only expecting one.  It has an embedded check valve bullet (the one on top) that I did not know existed and it fell out when I removed the torx set screw.  I have no clue if it was UP or DOWN (in relation to the gold valve in the pic) when it fell out – FKKK!  

The check bullet on bottom is expected and instructions require removal – the one on top was a surprise (to me and the kit company) – Yea!

I need concrete advice from someone who has disassembled these forks (this lineage) to this level so I can orient this FKKKK thing properly on re-assembly.  I am referring specifically to the orientation of the top check needle.

Thanks in advance.

PS (I will gladly provide advice and guidance to others when this is complete and tested.)

 

Bob

 

 

How about a review

I'd love to give a rewiew and it will happen, but might take 6-8 weeks. 

All of the mountain and front range trails were snowed in until last weekend.

I had a ride planned for Sunday, but tore my MCL on Saterday while messing around in my front yard (shame and humility).

 

The reassembly went back together good.  I ended up installing the RT Base valves, the RT2 conversion rebound valve kit, and their brand new slow speed conversion kit (it blocks off a couple holes in each fork).

You will need propane torch to heat up a couple parts on dissasembly because they were put on with loctite and some of the parts have no flat ends to wrench on.  A pair of channel locks with firm rubber pads are good have in your arsenal.

 

It would have been much easier if I had simply measured and sorted all of the shims they give you (before starting).

Bleeding the forks is easy now and it all happens from the top of the assembled fork.

The kits come with everything you need, organizing the shims from the start is highly recomended, you will have a fair amount of shims left over if you want to re-valve later.

 

I can't wait to give review later this summer.

cheers

Bob

I just did almost the same thing. I used zip Ty compression bases because they click with each 1/8 turn, which I really like. I used race tech gold valves and also the low speed kit. I did gold valves and the rebound separator valve in the shock. I am extremely happy with with the performance. The bike stays in a line in loose rocky terrain, with no deflection. Whoops were not rideable with the 4cs and now the front end lifts and the back eats it's way right through at low speed and high speed. High speed hits are nonexistent. The bike feels perfect. Finally. Sorry to hear about your injury, and I hate to make the wait worse, but prepare yourself to be blown away at how incredible your bike is gonna feel now

Did you also do the open chamber conversion by removing the two large O-rings and the smaller dampening rod seal?

B

Yes. Correct

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