Real Lead! proper DS wheel weights

Ok, gentle RS or street riding Beta boys and girls. 

 

I've been balancing my dual sport wheels/tires for over 15 years as dealing with the dreaded "bounce" over 35mph drives me fricking nuts, and for some reason the Beta its even more extreme :banghead: , maybe because of its weight of the bike? 

 

Well since running Tubliss I've been playing with both "spoke" weights and crapy "steel" weights. The Tubliss system is great but they make a more pronounced difference in un-balanced wheels pertaining to vibration  :rant:

 

The spoke type which I could only find made from steel suck, if for nothing else looks like sh*t, and the stick on steel type are so large in 1/2 ounce they are too large to stick on the dirt bike wheels and duct tape over, safely. 

 

When I bought my No-Mar tire changer years ago it came with a huge box of lead-stickies that do so very well whether is for a street bike or dirt bike because of the "weight per mass" of the stick on and they were sticky! Adding a piece of duct tape over the top worked killer for me for many years. Never lost a weight!

But I used them all up and was told that real lead was not available any longer  :facepalm: 

 

Well moving into 2016 I could not find REAL Lead weights anywhere I thought they were gone forever, finally today I found a company in Arizona that sells real lead!

 

Hope they are not confiscated coming into California :jawdrop: , lol!!!

 

Anyway they are listed on eBay from seller him4jc 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381602549858

 

Food for thought.....

M

 

 

 

 

My tire guys keeps them in stock...

Or get some plumbing solder (more lead based than electrical solder, so is thicker) and balance by wrapping it around the spokes...easy to do and works.

I'm curious how much weight you're using to balance dirt wheels. I'm not planning to get on the road too often with the xtrainer so am unlikely to actually balance mine but I am curious how much you typically use. I've still got almost all the stick on weights from no mar as I rarely need to balance street tires (I actually have their cycle hill tire changer which I just use for street bike tires, I do dirt tires with spoons).

I'm curious how much weight you're using to balance dirt wheels. I'm not planning to get on the road too often with the xtrainer so am unlikely to actually balance mine but I am curious how much you typically use. I've still got almost all the stick on weights from no mar as I rarely need to balance street tires (I actually have their cycle hill tire changer which I just use for street bike tires, I do dirt tires with spoons).

 

Depends on the tire and whether or not you are using the Tubliss tube system. Most DOT tires have a stamp that shows its preferred timing location on the rim, but I'll say bout 2-4 ounces. Every time is a little different.

 

The Tubliss system uses a aluminum rim lock with an internal Schrader valve that carries a major part of the systems weight.

 

But even with OEM tubes when my Beta was new the tires were WAY out of balance from the factory when ridden on the road. When new I pulled my wheels and most everything else @ 5 miles and balanced them, big difference.

Crap you think is going on in your new forks can be an "out of balance" situation, just saying....

True enough... I suppose I'm just lazy or maybe spoiled by modern street bike tires (which don't even come with balance marks any more, at least not the ones I'm buying). I should at least balance the front on the xtrainer.

I'm curious how much weight you're using to balance dirt wheels. I'm not planning to get on the road too often with the xtrainer so am unlikely to actually balance mine but I am curious how much you typically use. I've still got almost all the stick on weights from no mar as I rarely need to balance street tires (I actually have their cycle hill tire changer which I just use for street bike tires, I do dirt tires with spoons).

As much as necessary (which isn't that much) - the front wheel will tell you what's needed as it spins slowly to the downward point while elevated.

As MarkBevans said the Tubliss system can make the wheel out of balance (as mine did), I wrapped solder on a few spokes and that made a night n day difference while going down the road.

True enough... I suppose I'm just lazy or maybe spoiled by modern street bike tires (which don't even come with balance marks any more, at least not the ones I'm buying). I should at least balance the front on the xtrainer.

 

You know the balancing frame/tool that came with my No-Mar is the same as what Harbor Freight sells for $40.00, that in conjunction with "REAL" lead weights you got enough weights and a tool that will last you forever and always allow you to ride smoothly down the road no matter what bike you ride, street or dirt...

 

Up until recently I would go through tires on my street and track bikes 300-2500 miles, and dual sport tires would last roughly 350-1000 miles and with that many tires made purchasing my No-Mar tire mounting system a no-brainer. 

As balancing tires using that simplistic device kept my Ducati, Yamaha and Kawasaki riding smooth to 170mph, no to mention keeping my Beta totally a smoothie  :ride:

"They" are now making Tungsten stick on wheel balancing weights,

More heavy than lead.

"They" are now making Tungsten stick on wheel balancing weights,

More heavy than lead.

 

Yes, yet at what cost? Per square inch, tungsten a sintered material is much heavier per square inch, but in the real world?

I know what I pay for Tungsten 2% thoriated for steel or pure for aluminum for my tig welder, ouch! 

 

Good point :thumbsup: , but looking for a cheap solid easy to find alternative...

Or get some plumbing solder (more lead based than electrical solder, so is thicker) and balance by wrapping it around the spokes...easy to do and works.

 

 The EPA band lead solder in plumbing in 1986. Todays solder for plumbing is lead free. 50/50 is still around but can be hard to find. 60/40 is for electrical. My wife uses 50/50 for stainglass but it's pricy at the glass store. 

Edited by Rotax

 The EPA band lead solder in plumbing in 1986. Todays solder for plumbing is lead free. 50/50 is still around but can be hard to find. 60/40 is for electrical. My wife uses 50/50 for stainglass but it's pricy at the glass store. 

 

Ah - forgive my ignorance....I bought what I have recently at the hardware store, shows you where my head is.....(30 years out of date)..as my kids will attest to.

For my street and dual sport bikes I bought some bass fishin bullet lead weights in different sizes. Drilled the small end the size of the spoke, the large end just a little smaller than the nipple, then hacksawed down the length of one side of them.

Open them up enough to get on the spoke, then slide down on the nipple. Crimp them tight when every thing is balanced.

I don't mess with balancing dirt bike wheels.

Edited by Texan

My 300 RR shook like CRAZY over 35mph.  I noticed that it came stock with rim locks and I've always guessed that was the problem?  Anyways, I bought the motion pro steel wheel weights that are self sticky and static balanced them myself.  I just removed the caliper off of the front, found the heaviest spot, and added weights to the opposite side until it stopped turning.  It made a 100% difference.  I ended up using 3 ounces on the front.  I didn't static the rear, I just added 3.5 ounces to the opposite of the rim lock and the sucker rides like a dream now on the road now that both tires have some counter balancing weights on them.   :)

Edited by cachunko

If you want a smooth running bike, it is important that both front and rear wheels be balanced.  Single rim lock wheels and Tubliss require 3-5 ozs of balance weight; rear wheels usually require a little more weight than front wheels.

My 300 RR shook like CRAZY over 35mph.  I noticed that it came stock with rim locks and I've always guessed that was the problem?  Anyways, I bought the motion pro steel wheel weights that are self sticky and static balanced them myself.  I just removed the caliper off of the front, found the heaviest spot, and added weights to the opposite side until it stopped turning.  It made a 100% difference.  I ended up using 3 ounces on the front.  I didn't static the rear, I just added 3.5 ounces to the opposite of the rim lock and the sucker rides like a dream now on the road now that both tires have some counter balancing weights on them.   :)

 

3.5oz is pretty good. I had 6.75oz with the stock rim locks before I went with the light weight locks, I'm under 2 oz now with different tires. Another way to save weight is using 2 rim locks 180º apart.

I need to be bent over and spanked for my error in judgement!! The first few seasons on my Beta I swore by that "Ride On" liquid balancing stuff. It seemed to work great for a few hundred mile day rides with combination of dirt roads, pavement and singe track.

 

Then came the time I was training for my Iron Butt. Holy freeking shit!! One 400 mile day ride at 80mph freeway speed made me a believer of real wheel weights!! I remember being about right here around 200 miles into the ride:

 

100_4356_zpsbb28c2d7.jpg

 

I was feeling really beat up not knowing why? I happened to glance over at the shadow of my Beta and me against the K-Rail. The whole damn bike and me were bouncing all over the road like a pogo stick!! I think my steering damper was masking most of it. Hands were numb and I was miserable!!

 

I was about 100 miles from Get Dirty's shop and decided to drop in and see if I could get these wheels balanced. Was not even sure it would help. I pulled off the Ride On filled tubes and shoved them in my backpack. Dave's helper Ron balance both front and back wheels with new tubes. What a difference!! No more bouncing!! I could feel my hands again!! I rode the last 100 miles home in comfort. Looked over at the K-Rail and Beta was steady as a rock!! 

 

I know this was a little off topic Mark. Just wanted to add that story to the mix. As far as weights I've been using the Motion Pro ones. I'm not sure if they are lead or not?A little trick I learned on another thread is to balance the inside of the rim (taping weights on top of spokes) with tube installed. After the tire is installed you will use less weight on the outside.

 

I was so impressed with balanced wheels I bought the Motion Pro stand. It actually works really well.

 

IMG_0340_zpsd11b47f7.jpg

 

In the future I'm going to order those reusable spoke weights off ebay. They look to be a lot simpler to use. 

 

Bw4F5wWk-KGrHqVhMEv10CqF5BMK-YYfPg--_1_z

 

Bw4F3tQ2k-KGrHqNhcEv10E4O9BMK-YNhuI--_1_

 

Moral of the story is balancing wheels with real weight works!! These liquid potions like Dyno Beads, and Ride On DO NOT WORK for balancing wheels!! The Ride on does have a purpose as a sealant. But nothing more than that. You can read dozens of threads on how good Dyno Beads and and other liquid stuff is the best thing since sliced bread. IMO these guys have convinced themselves the shit works. I was one of those guys. When you start peeling off hundreds of pavement miles a day on a dirt bike you learn really quick what works to keep you in relative comfort.

I need to be bent over and spanked for my error in judgement!! The first few seasons on my Beta I swore by that "Ride On" liquid balancing stuff. It seemed to work great for a few hundred mile day rides with combination of dirt roads, pavement and singe track.

 

Then came the time I was training for my Iron Butt. Holy freeking shit!! One 400 mile day ride at 80mph freeway speed made me a believer of real wheel weights!! I remember being about right here around 200 miles into the ride:

 

100_4356_zpsbb28c2d7.jpg

 

I was feeling really beat up not knowing why? I happened to glance over at the shadow of my Beta and me against the K-Rail. The whole damn bike and me were bouncing all over the road like a pogo stick!! I think my steering damper was masking most of it. Hands were numb and I was miserable!!

 

I was about 100 miles from Get Dirty's shop and decided to drop in and see if I could get these wheels balanced. Was not even sure it would help. I pulled off the Ride On filled tubes and shoved them in my backpack. Dave's helper Ron balance both front and back wheels with new tubes. What a difference!! No more bouncing!! I could feel my hands again!! I rode the last 100 miles home in comfort. Looked over at the K-Rail and Beta was steady as a rock!! 

 

I know this was a little off topic Mark. Just wanted to add that story to the mix. As far as weights I've been using the Motion Pro ones. I'm not sure if they are lead or not?A little trick I learned on another thread is to balance the inside of the rim (taping weights on top of spokes) with tube installed. After the tire is installed you will use less weight on the outside.

 

I was so impressed with balanced wheels I bought the Motion Pro stand. It actually works really well.

 

IMG_0340_zpsd11b47f7.jpg

 

In the future I'm going to order those reusable spoke weights off ebay. They look to be a lot simpler to use. 

 

Bw4F5wWk-KGrHqVhMEv10CqF5BMK-YYfPg--_1_z

 

Bw4F3tQ2k-KGrHqNhcEv10E4O9BMK-YNhuI--_1_

 

Moral of the story is balancing wheels with real weight works!! These liquid potions like Dyno Beads, and Ride On DO NOT WORK for balancing wheels!! The Ride on does have a purpose as a sealant. But nothing more than that. You can read dozens of threads on how good Dyno Beads and and other liquid stuff is the best thing since sliced bread. IMO these guys have convinced themselves the shit works. I was one of those guys. When you start peeling off hundreds of pavement miles a day on a dirt bike you learn really quick what works to keep you in relative comfort.

 

 

 

Excellent post; well done.

I need to be bent over and spanked for my error in judgement!! The first few seasons on my Beta I swore by that "Ride On" liquid balancing stuff. It seemed to work great for a few hundred mile day rides with combination of dirt roads, pavement and singe track.

 

In the future I'm going to order those reusable spoke weights off ebay. They look to be a lot simpler to use. 

 

Bw4F5wWk-KGrHqVhMEv10CqF5BMK-YYfPg--_1_z

 

 

 

Moral of the story is balancing wheels with real weight works!!

 

I remember those conversions.lol Sometimes it takes us a while to see the light. I've been using the same weights you post above for years. Not only do they help with wheel hop they also greatly reduce tire scalloping when knobbies are used on the road. Tire beads do work also but should be limited to road use only, slow off road situations would make them ineffective. A few of my semi truck mechanic friends say thats all they use on semi front tires and have for years. I use them on my k1600 which is notorious for scalloping front tires and now it's been eliminated. I'm on my 3rd set of pilot road GT's with them. Still sounds hokey to me but they work and I'll keep using them.

Edited by Rotax

Then came the time I was training for my Iron Butt. Holy freeking shit!!

 

Did you do a 1000/24 on a dual sport?

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