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2016 500exc fuel pump failed


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I was riding Moss Lake Motorcycle trail a 27mile loop in the U.P. MI. Pretty tight first gear trail with stock gears and the bike started to flame out on me about 5 times about an hour into riding thought it was me just stalling it. So got a little nervous cut my loop short but made it back to the truck. Loaded bike changed fuel filter then it would not start at all after that. Took bike to dealer because its under warranty bike has 9hrs and 350miles on it bought it fathers day weekend. Fuel pump failed, 150bar supposed to be over 300bar is there anything that I can do or was this just a freak failure.

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The fuel pump itself has a plastic filter , and some cases, its splits at the seams on new bike , Ive probably counted 3 or 4 over the last year. Not a big issue, but noted.  I have near 360 hours on original pump and filter, been flawless thus far.

Edited by Spud786
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  • 2 years later...
On 7/15/2016 at 7:51 PM, Sixinarow said:

I was riding Moss Lake Motorcycle trail a 27mile loop in the U.P. MI. Pretty tight first gear trail with stock gears and the bike started to flame out on me about 5 times about an hour into riding thought it was me just stalling it. So got a little nervous cut my loop short but made it back to the truck. Loaded bike changed fuel filter then it would not start at all after that. Took bike to dealer because its under warranty bike has 9hrs and 350miles on it bought it fathers day weekend. Fuel pump failed, 150bar supposed to be over 300bar is there anything that I can do or was this just a freak failure.

I have a '17 fe501 and various buddies have KTMs, etc. Virtually every one of us has experienced the "split" fuel filter in the tank problem (mine happened once in Moab and then a few months later in the middle of nowhere in Nevada). Many people think their fuel pumps have failed and the dealer, either none the wiser or looking for a better boat payment replace both the pump and filter. The problem is the the stock plastic fuel filter is junk and just as likely to fail again after replacement. It's also possible that the alcohol in the modern auto fuel is causing these failures. I and friends have gone to a metal replacement (same in all dimensions as the OEM filter). P/N is Purolator F29160 or equivalent. A few bucks online. I am now replacing these proactively when I get a new bike from Austria.

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So, do you guys think the fuel pump failures were actually just the filter splitting all along? Or are both a problem?

Are you pro-actively pulling the fuel pumps and replacing the filters, then? If it's not a complicated job (?) then it sounds like it would be worth it, rather than getting stranded 30 miles from the truck.

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44 minutes ago, Horgh said:

So, do you guys think the fuel pump failures were actually just the filter splitting all along? Or are both a problem?

Are you pro-actively pulling the fuel pumps and replacing the filters, then? If it's not a complicated job (?) then it sounds like it would be worth it, rather than getting stranded 30 miles from the truck.

The intank filter is the same size many cars use, think of how many gallons goes through a car in 150,000 miles, and have never been replaced. 

But if you want to change it to a metal one, that is not a bad idea imo  Hopefully, maybe, if it doesn't corrode

 

 

Edited by Spud786
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39 minutes ago, Horgh said:

So, do you guys think the fuel pump failures were actually just the filter splitting all along? Or are both a problem?

Are you pro-actively pulling the fuel pumps and replacing the filters, then? If it's not a complicated job (?) then it sounds like it would be worth it, rather than getting stranded 30 miles from the truck.

My experience is that the pumps rarely fail while the filters regularly do (at least here in California - dealers, of course deny it.  Again, CA may have fuel blends that exacerbate).  I would highly recommend changing the filter before it fails.  Use the metal filter  I referenced previously.  The job is pretty easy (less than an hour).  Make sure to use the existing fuel lines in the tank (do not cut or otherwise modify them) - they are pre-formed and ridgid so it makes getting the pump and assembly back in place easier.  If you change the fuel lines to pliable rubber you will make your reassembly job almost impossible.  Also, while you can use regular screw hose clamps as replacements on the hoses, it's just as easy to buy the single ear clamps from Amazon...  Buy one of the kits here and get the pliers too: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_2_21?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=single+ear+hose+clamps+stainless&sprefix=single+ear+hose+clamp%2Caps%2C212&crid=12C97ZJO7LDFG

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5 minutes ago, Spud786 said:

The intank filter is the same size many cars use, think of how many gallons goes through a car in 150,000 miles, and have never been replaced. 

But if you want to change it to a metal one, that is not a bad idea imo  Hopefully, maybe, if it doesn't corrode

 

 

gas is not a good conductor so corrosion is not an issue (if it were, it would be possible for the bare electrical wires in the tank to "spark" or conduct - they don't.  Also, if you think about it, there's fuel on the inside of the same metal filter...

Edited by staggart
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Yeah, I was in a napa dealer the other day trying to cross reference the kl97 to a metal, as I was  considering stocking a new in tank filter , if and when I ever do it. Then this old thread popped up, and provided that cross reference number.

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9 hours ago, mack73 said:

Does the Purolator referenced above fit in all fuel injected models? Looking to replace the filter in my '12 350 excf

OK, I got the p/n for my '17 FE501 and then looked it up and found a complete list of bikes that kit covers (including yours): https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/ktm/81207090100/b4163382.  So, yes, they should be interchanagle.  Here's the P/N for the kit (found here:  https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts ) 81207090100.  If you search for this p/n, you will get a lot of options (the $66 kit includes the pre-filter (which you don't need) and the clamps (which you do need but are very cheap to buy separately at amazon).  I see the OEM filter (not what you want since it's cheap plastic) alone for $8 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/2016-Genuine-KTM-Filter-81207090100/dp/B01N4MS95A), https://www.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-KL-97-Filter/dp/B0068O6L7I/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GGEH5JC8DN4H76CE7V9R 

Here's the link to the Purolator metal filterhttps://www.google.com/search?q=Purolator+F29160&oq=Purolator+F29160&aqs=chrome..69i57j35i39j69i59l3.1055j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Here's a link to the equivelent filetsr (no gurantees all of these would be exact fits): http://www.fuelfilter-crossreference.com/convert/PUROLATOR/F29160

 

 

 

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Ive got over 800 hours on orginal plastic filter, and doing fine.

 

These are all the same equivalents in metal as mentioned above ,   they seem to be slightly longer than the oem, 1/2 inch

I agree on buying the otiker clamps, I already stock those

 

 

 Purolator F29160 or equivalent

AC Delco GF479 Fuel Filter AC Delco GF479 $2.71 - $13.56  » 
 
 Beck Arnley 0430804  Beck Arnley 0430804 $3.17 - $3.16» 
 
 Fram G3606 Fuel Filter Fram G3606 Fuel Filter $2.32 - $12.65  11 V »
 
 
 Fram G3606DP Fuel Filter Fram G3606DP Fuel Filter $2.71 - $9.69  10 View Details » 
 
 Hastings GF99 Fuel Filter Hastings GF99 Fuel Filter $2.30 - $9.95  2 View Details » 
 
 Pentius PFB29160 Fuel Filter Pentius PFB29160 $8.06 - $27.08  4 View Details » 
 
 Wix 33095 Fuel Filter Wix 33095 Fuel

Edited by Spud786
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5 minutes ago, 909Matt said:

My filter was completely clogged after 120hrs. It failed on the trail and had to be towed back. ‘17 500

That's pretty severe contamination

It would be interesting to know all the factors involved, pure desert is probably the worst environmental condition as an enabler.

Course the tank inhales air , and a shorty hose is a straight shot

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