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SlowDinoDog

1983 Honda CR250R Rebuild

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You will never have confidence in that bike,,,,,,,,I'm ready for a road trip if you can't sleep! ;)

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2 hours ago, Piney Woods said:

You will never have confidence in that bike,,,,,,,,I'm ready for a road trip if you can't sleep! ;)

thx...but it looks dry...should be good to go.

I think I'll replace the fork fluid...my notes say I like BelRay 15wt in these stock forks...manual says Honda ATF.

Also, I'm going to start season with a new front tire...a Dunlop MX33. I've been running an MX52 for a couple seasons.

I may gear it up a few teeth for a bit more speed...I have it geared way down.

I was careful with the clutch cover going on and off that I remembered to check for washers on kicker shaft, and the shifter shaft....and a washer on each side of the impeller.

JBWeld repair looks good.

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Fork oil is easy....drain at the bottom...fill at the top...15 wt Belrey works for me...I was running about 12.5 wt.

I'm looking forward to trying RaceTech valves and springs in these...or build another set. Until then, these stock forks are tuned up.🏁

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All my euro bikes in the 70-80s era were left side kickers. Never understood the issue some have, just on the opposite side.

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17 minutes ago, Piney Woods said:

All my euro bikes in the 70-80s era were left side kickers. Never understood the issue some have, just on the opposite side.

Seems weird and I don't understand why but I struggle with left kickers.  

1 hour ago, SlowDinoDog said:

New front Dunlop MX33 is on the way.

I haven't touched the jetting since rebuilding. I've just raised the idle screw.

I've been practicing kicking it left footed...should save time if/when I stall.

 

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Looks great! 

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4 minutes ago, Madmax31 said:

Seems weird and I don't understand why but I struggle with left kickers.  

Looks great! 

thx...I'm trying to prioritize my time and money...After the front tire, I'm thinking the RaceTech fork valves and springs might be next. You installed those yourself?

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I think my next build may be a 1993 CR250R. I'm really enjoying riding the '88 CR250...it would be interesting to try next gen engine....and USD forks.

But...I have to be practical...this '83 still could use some time and money...needs new clutch basket, aluminum clutch cover...powder coat frame....update the shock linkage.🏁🏁🏁

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I put the yellow circle on the tire somewhat opposite the rim lock.

Front hub and brake lining are pretty good. OEM DID rim is good. Looks like I rebuilt it with a sealed bearing on this side a couple seasons ago.

I clean up the rust and dirt from inside the rime with WD40 then Simple Green. I like to put a layer pf the thick Motion Pro rim tape over the nipples and inner rim.

Then, a new rubber rim strip to hold down the rim stop. I bought a less expensive STI HD tube (chinese from rkymtnatv). The tube looks thick and high quality. I typically use Kenda TuffTubes.

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Edited by SlowDinoDog
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they feel bad...pretty notched without looking.

I just ordered new OEM front wheel bearings from rkymtnatv...they should get them in a few days. 

these 2 yr old bearings were probably inexpensive aftermarket...the axle and bearings are small by todays standards.

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I put the yellow circle on the tire somewhat opposite the rim lock.
Front hub and brake lining are pretty good. OEM DID rim is good. Looks like I rebuilt it with a sealed bearing on this side a couple seasons ago.
I clean up the rust and dirt from inside the rime with WD40 then Simple Green. I like to put a layer pf the thick Motion Pro rim tape over the nipples and inner rim.
Then, a new rubber rim strip to hold down the rim stop. I bought a less expensive STI HD tube (chinese from rkymtnatv). The tube looks thick and high quality. I typically use Kenda TuffTubes.
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Usually you want the yellow circle aligned with the heaviest spot on your rim. On street bikes it usually aligned with the valve stem. On a dirt tire it really doesn't matter, they're never balanced anyways.
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I dunno...if they put it next to the valve stem on street bikes, that means it indicates the light spot...if the same for dirt bikes, then you would put it next to the rim stop.

...or its the opposite for dirt bikes and you still put it next to the valve stem...i dunno...

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1 hour ago, SlowDinoDog said:

I dunno...if they put it next to the valve stem on street bikes, that means it indicates the light spot...if the same for dirt bikes, then you would put it next to the rim stop.

...or its the opposite for dirt bikes and you still put it next to the valve stem...i dunno...

Tires often have 2 spots, a yellow circle (valve) and a red spot (high spot). The theory is you align the red dot if your rim has the corresponding marking, or the yellow circle with the valve.

The yellow dot is usually the light spot, I can't see why it'd be marked any differently on knobbies, then I'm going with Dino and would suggest putting it where the rimlock is.

Though of course as soon as you damage the rim all this goes out the window. Or you have 2 rimlocks. Or use a hd tube. Or have adjusted the spokes.

Honestly, the weight difference in the light part of the tire is gonna be very little, especially off road, just slap it on and go riding. :banana:

Edited by DEATH_INC.

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I dunno...if they put it next to the valve stem on street bikes, that means it indicates the light spot...if the same for dirt bikes, then you would put it next to the rim stop.
...or its the opposite for dirt bikes and you still put it next to the valve stem...i dunno...
Yup if you'd want it next to the rim lock, but it really doesn't matter on these. On a street tire if you forget to do it it's not a huge deal, you'll just have to add more weight to balance the wheel. For road racing applications they want the least amount of weight on the wheel, they're the ones who are really anal about that.

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