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What did you do to your 2017 FE501 today, ECU, TPS and mods etc.

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3 hours ago, avconnect said:

Been reading this thread for awhile and thought i would chime in.  Wanted to do a complete read before i did so.

One of our fellow inmates has asked several times about the availability of an FMF header for these bikes - specifically an FE501 of which i recently acquired a 2017.  FMF will not help you.  They will not tell you which model or part number fits our bikes.  CARB and EPA has them all clammed up.  Why the regulatory bodies care about the head pipe is beyond me.  However, a dealer told me last week that the FC450 headpipe fits. There you have it.  Fact is, KTM has not made a tone of changes to exhaust systems over the years.  My old stock muffler from my 2012 500 EXC bolted right up to my son’s 06 450EXC.

I know that the Power Bomb header won't work without denting it to clear the engine case. That's on the forum here somewhere, AND my buddy was determined to try it even though I told him it wouldn't work, so I saw it first hand also.

3 hours ago, avconnect said:

And one more question for now.  I have the Vortex ECU installed.  Is the Vortex switch worth the expense?  Also, is the factory map switch and traction control worth the effort of wiring it in and making the connection at the ECU?  I have not heard anyone rave about the tradition control or the ability to switch maps.  Seems like most put it in one position and it never moves.

 

3 hours ago, Wadzy said:

I really want to try the FC450 header but not sure what it will really deliver in terms of performance. The map switch I would of never done had I know how little it really did. 

I have the Vortex and I did a lot of work installing the ktm/husky switch on on my bike, trying to make the wiring as close to factory as I could. Not to mention hacking into the wiring on a perfectly good brand new bike. I am disappointed I went to the trouble. I never touch the switch, I never even think about it. It's so much easier to ride than anything I've ever been on already, I don't go looking for the switch when things get tough. I've tried switching maps and using the TC and I can hardly tell the difference. 

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On 6/19/2018 at 0:12 AM, avconnect said:

And one more question for now.  I have the Vortex ECU installed.  Is the Vortex switch worth the expense?  Also, is the factory map switch and traction control worth the effort of wiring it in and making the connection at the ECU?  I have not heard anyone rave about the tradition control or the ability to switch maps.  Seems like most put it in one position and it never moves.

I use the Vortex switch and like having it.  Switch position 1 will always leave you in Map 1 (default), then the second position switches to whatever map you have set on the dials.  I use Map 2 (Traction map), and I like this one a lot when I get into slick, rocky climbing sections.  In Map 1, I will struggle to get traction to make it up.  In Map  2, I can usually tractor up much easier.  Sure makes my riding experience a lot better being able to do this.

The traction map isn't true traction control, with wheel sensors, etc, but detects an inconsistent RPM rise to throttle input, and then retards timing.  But I think it works pretty well.  I don't run Map 2 all the time, just when I get into slick situations.  Nice to have it essentially on the fly when needed.

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I read the first and last 10 pages, and searched but still need some clarification, sorry dudes.

The emissions delete is the only one of these mods that can be done without remapping, correct? I was going to get the KTMandHusky kit.

And these of course, must be done at the same time to keep your AF ratio right: Pro Moto billet end cap, airbox reed delete, ECU tune. Did I miss any?

Is the Blias racing ECU flash enough, or should I just get a  Vortex? Are you guys still altering your TPS, or is stock position now fine to pair with the ECU tune? Anyone still drilling airbox holes?

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Blias cant remap a stock ecu, only one thats already been remapped(cause its unlocked)

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7 hours ago, HansLanda said:

I read the first and last 10 pages, and searched but still need some clarification, sorry dudes.

The emissions delete is the only one of these mods that can be done without remapping, correct? I was going to get the KTMandHusky kit.

And these of course, must be done at the same time to keep your AF ratio right: Pro Moto billet end cap, airbox reed delete, ECU tune. Did I miss any?

Is the Blias racing ECU flash enough, or should I just get a  Vortex? Are you guys still altering your TPS, or is stock position now fine to pair with the ECU tune? Anyone still drilling airbox holes?

Depends on how far you go with emissions delete.  If just the SAS, solenoid, canister, etc, shouldn't change the lean condition vs stock.  If you remove the intake reed, and open up the exhaust, you'll need to do something to richen it up.  In my case, even before removing the reed and opening the exhaust I had a severe lean condition (decal pop, flameouts, etc) so needed to richen it up.  Most popular options here are JD tuner (piggyback fuel unit) or Vortex (replaces stock ECU entirely, but gives preset ignition tunes in addition to fuel tuning.  I went with the Vortex, along with their map switch.  Great performance improvement.  Others have also had great performance improvements with the JD tuner, which fixes the lean condition and costs much less than the Vortex.

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17 hours ago, crazybrother said:

There are still options on the ECU mapping...

PM's only please...:thumbsup:

sent a PM.

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On 6/25/2018 at 6:48 PM, Spud786 said:

Blias cant remap a stock ecu, only one thats already been remapped(cause its unlocked)

Damn, the unlock plus their mapping is getting near the cost of the Vortex already.

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yea, i think the few out there that can unlock and remap are pricing the service in comparison to the Vortex.  Saves you a couple of hundred bucks even though it takes them about 15 minutes to open your box, plug into your ecu and reprogram it, put it back in the box and toss it in the mail.

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Changed springs for my riding weight. Went with a 5.2 rear and 4.8 for the forks from Slavens. The suspension feels better already,  although I still need to set the sag. Toughest part was getting the shock out, just gotta rotate the subframe up an inch or so. 

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On 6/29/2018 at 1:43 PM, HansLanda said:

Damn, the unlock plus their mapping is getting near the cost of the Vortex already.

I'd recommend biting the bullet and getting the Vortex, as you then have all kinds of control yourself as to fueling and ignition mapping.  And you don't have to send anything anywhere, and then hope it comes back with the perfect map.  Plus, you can always go back with the stock ECU if you take it back to a dealer for service.  Not sure what happens when you take an unlocked ECU back to the dealer., i.e.., do they over-write your map?

Edited by markbfe501
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1 hour ago, 556er said:

Changed springs for my riding weight. Went with a 5.2 rear and 4.8 for the forks from Slavens. The suspension feels better already,  although I still need to set the sag. Toughest part was getting the shock out, just gotta rotate the subframe up an inch or so. 

I think this is the next one on my list. And maybe a bigger tank. I've really been wanting to do the springs though.

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27 minutes ago, Portmod7 said:

I think this is the next one on my list. And maybe a bigger tank. I've really been wanting to do the springs though.

Depending just how far you are from the 165 rider+gear stock springs, new springs are one of the best upgrades you can make.  At some point, revalving is necessary (although I didn't, but did play with my air gap).  I'm at 240 lbs rider+ gear on longer rides and that's what I resprung to.  That, coupled with Tubliss, new tires and lower tire pressures has made my bike more awesome than me as a rider.  Handling improvement is amazing.

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3 minutes ago, markbfe501 said:

Depending just how far you are from the 165 rider+gear stock springs, new springs are one of the best upgrades you can make.  At some point, revalving is necessary (although I didn't, but did play with my air gap).  I'm at 240 lbs rider+ gear on longer rides and that's what I resprung to.  That, coupled with Tubliss, new tires and lower tire pressures has made my bike more awesome than me as a rider.  Handling improvement is amazing.

I am 220-230. Probably a worthwhile upgrade!

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33 minutes ago, Portmod7 said:

I am 220-230. Probably a worthwhile upgrade!

My first time out on mine, I hauled it up to Michigan to spend 4 days riding with my son.  Every riding area we hit had massively long sandy whoop sections.  My bike bottomed on everything it hit.  Beat me halfway to death.  After respringing, Tubliss and new tires, it glides across this stuff now.

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12 hours ago, 556er said:

Changed springs for my riding weight. Went with a 5.2 rear and 4.8 for the forks from Slavens. The suspension feels better already,  although I still need to set the sag. Toughest part was getting the shock out, just gotta rotate the subframe up an inch or so. 

You don’t have to remove the shock to change the spring. Loosen the tension/preload on the spring completely so it can be pushed upward a half inch or so reliving pressure from the c-clip and retaining washer at the bottom of the shock. Remove the linkage. Lift up on the spring remove the c-clip/ring and the washer and slide to spring down and off the shock thru the swing arm. Reverse the process to install the new spring. I’ve done my springs a couple ways and this is by far the easiest/quickest.

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56 minutes ago, Vagus said:

You don’t have to remove the shock to change the spring. Loosen the tension/preload on the spring completely so it can be pushed upward a half inch or so reliving pressure from the c-clip and retaining washer at the bottom of the shock. Remove the linkage. Lift up on the spring remove the c-clip/ring and the washer and slide to spring down and off the shock thru the swing arm. Reverse the process to install the new spring. I’ve done my springs a couple ways and this is by far the easiest/quickest.

I can see how that would work, but I gave the shock a good cleaning while it was out as well. Despite cleaning the bike before starting, it was covered in coal slag. Made it a bit easier to set the preload at the spec'd 7/16", just as a base before recruiting the wife to help me set the sag. 

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Anyone know if the FS450 front fender fits on the 501? Looks like it will.

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Anyone know if the FS450 front fender fits on the 501? Looks like it will.

It does I have it on mine. I had to order the fender sticker separate.

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