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What did you do to your 2017 FE501 today, ECU, TPS and mods etc.

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Anyone else's front brake really squeaky?  Mine has been since Mile-1.   I asked my dealer and they said that the rotor showed the brake pad hadnt even fully been worn down enough to bite the entire rotor surface.  Also, they said husky/ktm wont warranty work a brake that brakes perfectly, no pulsing, etc. and only makes noise.   My thought to fix could be diff set of brake pads. Worst case diff pads and a new rotor.   It is a little annoying/embarrassing.  People comment on it on rides all the time.

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1 hour ago, Agr0 said:

Anyone else's front brake really squeaky?  Mine has been since Mile-1.   I asked my dealer and they said that the rotor showed the brake pad hadnt even fully been worn down enough to bite the entire rotor surface.  Also, they said husky/ktm wont warranty work a brake that brakes perfectly, no pulsing, etc. and only makes noise.   My thought to fix could be diff set of brake pads. Worst case diff pads and a new rotor.   It is a little annoying/embarrassing.  People comment on it on rides all the time.

My rear does make some noise if I come to a stop with it.

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4 hours ago, Agr0 said:

Anyone else's front brake really squeaky?  Mine has been since Mile-1.   I asked my dealer and they said that the rotor showed the brake pad hadnt even fully been worn down enough to bite the entire rotor surface.  Also, they said husky/ktm wont warranty work a brake that brakes perfectly, no pulsing, etc. and only makes noise.   My thought to fix could be diff set of brake pads. Worst case diff pads and a new rotor.   It is a little annoying/embarrassing.  People comment on it on rides all the time.

My Husky brakes don't squeak, but my new XTrainer does both front and rear.

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5 hours ago, Agr0 said:

Anyone else's front brake really squeaky?  Mine has been since Mile-1. 

Yup, since mile 40 of an 85 mile event.

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If you want to run Torx instead of hex on those 2 bolts that Steg gave you, let me know.  I had to order them from China, but I got extras.  You and I chit-chatted on Youtube earlier this year...  thx
oh and i went with double pucks, i prefer it more IMHO.
 
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Hey man. Appreciate that. I thought if I doubled up on the pucks that when I went downhill on steep decents that the pucks would get in the way eh??

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Hey man. Appreciate that. I thought if I doubled up on the pucks that when I went downhill on steep decents that the pucks would get in the way eh??


I guess you gotta see. They second set pack includes 1” bolts instead of the 0.5” bolts that come w one. The “Desert King” edition of steg pegz come thicker and have 3 pucks stacked.

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I guess you gotta see. They second set pack includes 1” bolts instead of the 0.5” bolts that come w one. The “Desert King” edition of steg pegz come thicker and have 3 pucks stacked.

IMG_5861.JPG

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On 8/23/2018 at 7:55 PM, markbfe501 said:

I also think the engine component clearances are established around proper operating temps.  Trying to achieve colder temps could lead to premature engine wear, which is why we warm our bikes up a bit before running them hard.

The Thermostat are only on the Street Legal models... Hence, it is not needed for offroad/MX models... emissions only.

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1. Installed the Vortex ECU
2. Installed the Pro Moto Billet spark arresster
3. Desmogged some items (left the charcoal canister for now, too lazy)
Removed the SAS, installed plug w/ copper washer.  Removed the brass nipple in intake, installed bolt w/ copper washer.
4. Removed the reed valves in the intake
5. Reset the TPS per the Vortex instructions.  No idea if that was needed, but it sounded like fun...

aba1.jpg

aba2.jpg

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@Agr0

I thought Vortex wanted the TPS in stock position. Hoping that is still the case so I don't have to buy the TPS tool.
How was it getting those reeds out?

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13 minutes ago, HansLanda said:

@Agr0

I thought Vortex wanted the TPS in stock position. Hoping that is still the case so I don't have to buy the TPS tool.
How was it getting those reeds out?

Before today, I had a completely stock bike as far as all that goes.

The reeds I bet if you handed me a heat gun and a set of needle nosed pliers and vice grips (optional), I could start to finish have it done in 90 seconds.  It is really easy.  If you want them removed, you should have no concerns about the complexity of it.  Heat the area up, pull on the plastic ring outside the reeds w the needle nose, which is glued (and now the glue is soft), pull that off.  Then simply put your needle nose (or vice grips which can make it easier, less strain on my hands) in on the reed (as shown in my pic) and pull the F'er out.

I did this per the doc.  I dont think I had to, but I just couldn't resist :)

 

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Edited by Agr0
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Anyone know if a normal banjo bolt works on the rear master cylinder? Going to replace the pressure switch. I looked at the part number for the front banjo, and it's a ~$20 part, so I'm wondering if they're special in some way.

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I was off the bike with a broken thumb for 6 weeks so this happened, post ride photos so a little dusty. A bunch of acerbis goodies and new graphics for my 2018 FE450, smog delete, Jd jetting tuner, pulled the exhaust screens and reeds...suspension is next pending funds, Kreft or Pro circuit.

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Got some valves slightly loose at 30 hrs / 973 mi. I'm not too worried about it, but obviously I do like my valves right in the middle of spec.
What do you guys think?

IN spec: 0.10-0.15mm
IN L - 0.15 tight 0.18 very tight
IN R - 0.18 fit 0.20 tight

EX spec: 0.12-0.17mm
EX L - 0.18 tight
EX R - 0.18 tight

Edited by HansLanda

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Got some valves slightly loose at 30 hrs / 973 mi. I'm not too worried about it, but obviously I do like my valves right in the middle of spec.
What do you guys think?
IN spec: 0.10-0.15mm
IN L - 0.15 tight 0.18 very tight
IN R - 0.18 fit 0.20 tight
EX spec: 0.12-0.17mm
EX L - 0.18 tight
EX R - 0.18 tight

Wild how diff bikes behave. Each unique. Here is mine at 25hrs 600 miles
IMG_5820.JPG

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Wild how diff bikes behave. Each unique. Here is mine at 25hrs 600 miles

Any thought on my lash? It's not very different from my 15 hr check.

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Any thought on my lash? It's not very different from my 15 hr check.


Sorry, I’m no expert in that area to speak to why all yours are not in spec. I don’t know these engines etc. I just know how to check and shim them to spec. I got the Pro-X shim kits (2) so I have them to 0.02mm increments. I also got lazy and didn’t check till my 25hr. I knew I was a bad boy but it ran so great.

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Has anyone else had ecu issues?  Im not so happy I have 100 miles on my 18 501 and need a new ecu already.  Symptoms are check engine light solid.  After I start the bike and run it slow theres no light.  Whenever I get on it at all, the CE light goes on.  I had to not bring it to a trip on my vacation recently and that is just killing me!  Dealer has new ecu's on order but hasn't got them yet. 

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Has anyone else had ecu issues?  Im not so happy I have 100 miles on my 18 501 and need a new ecu already.  Symptoms are check engine light solid.  After I start the bike and run it slow theres no light.  Whenever I get on it at all, the CE light goes on.  I had to not bring it to a trip on my vacation recently and that is just killing me!  Dealer has new ecu's on order but hasn't got them yet. 


Check the main engine ground. I had a similar issue. FI light when on throttle but goes off when idling. Other issue I had is that it wouldn’t stop via the kill switch (albeit it is an aftermarket Sicass one so maybe not apples to apples) and then would not always start from off.

You sure it’s the ecu? If you were local to me you could try my 18 fe501 ecu as I run vortex but if not me, maybe someone else.

I hear the ecus r cheap relatively speaking. Gl

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